54m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route and an astounding effort for its day. The climb remains steep and intimidating, with a sinister and gloomy atmosphere and a spectacular finale.
1) N4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges. Continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder.
1a) N4+, 22m. A harder variation which has been used for years to avoid the crowds on the regular line sticks with the crack until a short traverse right gains the regular line - loose blocks.
2) N4+, 14m. 'The Rubenson Traverse'. Trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall, on a line of superb jugs, passing a couple of pegs. Make an exposed move round the arete to a good stance and double-bolt belay.
3) N4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove system on the left to reach the notch between the horns. Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Storhorn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay on gear on the Lillehorn. Take care with rope work on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50.

Cara 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Phoebe
Storm Hunter 24/Jul/17 -
EspenK 16/Jul/17 Lead O/S

With Emmi. Wet, and top very windy. Didn't jump. Very cool exposure at the top.

Hidden 29/Jun/17 2nd
AshJames94 11/Jun/17 2nd O/S
DAL 05/Jun/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Clay C 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with George
Hidden 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
67hours 23/Aug/16 AltLd O/S


with Clay
Graeme Hammond 19/Aug/16 AltLd
with Becky E
Bradbury 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Sian P2. Didn't do P3 to the horns as had already summited by Forsida, misprint in guide and others abseiling

with Sian Hughes
Hidden 19/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/16 AltLd
maumau 30/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
lyneux 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S
Tasermiut 29/Jul/16 2nd dog
payney1973 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Leading 2 x novice, great weather. 2nd pitch is the best only too short.

Jim-Roberts-1987 25/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Early to the crag and therefore clear run at the route. Excellent climbing and well worth the steep trek in.

with Various; instructing novices
leemagowan 23/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Very exposed at top, make safe on bolts ASAP, went to jump but had two seconds and didn't want to compromised myself. European climbers climbing over my anchors and being rude.

Hidden 20/Jun/16 AltLd
Alex Thomson 20/Jun/16 AltLd
with Russell Shanks, Jenny Hill
J_Jansen ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

In my opinion only considered a classic because it was the first route set up. The route is OK, and if you're looking for the fastest and easiest way up, go for it. I by far prefer the "Forsida" route, which has the benefit of getting sun, on top of much better climbing.

efehr 01/Aug/15 AltLd dnf
with Per Brox
jonnie3430 08/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
rpinto 04/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Peter Reynolds ?/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden 12/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Samantha Dickson ?/Jul/14 2nd O/S
EWhyte ?/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 13/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
AliMackenzie 10/May/13 AltLd
with Ken
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead
Batt 21/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Great fun in the clag. Lead p2 and onto the top p4 after J's non pitch! Belayed hanging between the two horns since legs too short to sit on small one and reach!

Hoyes 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Dan Lane 20/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

An entertaining jaunt upto the famous summit in the clag/mist/rain/cold/wind. I led p1.

with James Hoyes, Rach Batt
Leelogs 05/Jul/12 2nd
victim of mathematics 05/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Ran the first 2 pitches together and then abseiled off (having already been to the top). Really good, but covered in a baffling number of pegs, some very new.

with Claire
Hidden 03/Jul/12 Lead O/S
cymjt ?/Jul/12 -
espenstenberg ?/Jul/12 2nd O/S
JoelO ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
Jack_Lewin 19/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
with Nick Lyons
Zoomer 18/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed as a three, rock soaking, cloud and mist everywhere and blowy. 1st pitch and 3rd. 4c, 4c, 4a but that doesn't tell the story! Old school climbing before a jaw dropping finish. Very awkward to protect the final belay/step across i.e. don't. Clip the bolts, step a cross, get lowered then repeat for the 2nd.

with A Student
Conan 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Conan Harrod
Hidden 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
JenDurden 16/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1. Terrified at the top--far too scared to jump!

with Max
Big Lee 15/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Quality route with some great summit views. Led all three pitches. Top of 1st pitch & first moves of second pitch warrent a 4c in my eyes rather than 4b grades quoted in Rockfax. Declined the jump across the blocks as it looked terrifying and therefore opted to step across which was difficult enough. Then more difficulties trying to step back across to the ab point on the higher block. All good fun.

with Polly Gardiner
Hidden 12/Jun/11 Lead
tobydunford 05/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, Bridget Hall
bridget143 05/Aug/10 2nd O/S

Film duty, training the Norwegian sport climber into trad ways :-)

with Toby Dunford, Mikkel
Ztephan ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Marius
John Roe 11/Aug/09 AltLd

Led pitch 2

with Marshall Kinnear
joeydurkin 05/Aug/09 AltLd
with Patch
Hidden 05/Aug/09 AltLd
Roch 30/Jul/09 AltLd
with MRT
Hidden 07/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Ing 06/Jul/08 2nd
with Stevie G & James
Hexman 01/Jul/08 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Elsier ?/Jul/07 2nd O/S
with Stuart
mattpw ?/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
Chris Craggs ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with Colin Binks
Hidden 13/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Jody ?/May/05 Lead O/S

Lead 1st and 3rd pitches

with Erik
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jul/04 Lead
with Clare
Erkke ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Anders, Jody
frotveit 18/Jul/03 AltLd
chrishedgehog 08/Jul/03 Lead O/S

First route in Lofoten! The leap across was certainly the highlight, not least as we did not land in the cemetery.

with Clare Wilkie
TobyA 07/Aug/98 Lead O/S
with Elina
granitbahn ?/Jul/88 AltLd
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