54m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route and an astounding effort for its day. The climb remains steep and intimidating, with a sinister and gloomy atmosphere and a spectacular finale.
1) N4+, 22m. A steep start up the right-hand groove (easier just to the left) leads to ledges. Continue up a flake on the left and a steep juggy groove/chimney to a stance on the right with spike belays, a short distance below the shoulder.
1a) N4+, 22m. A harder variation which has been used for years to avoid the crowds on the regular line sticks with the crack until a short traverse right gains the regular line - loose blocks.
2) N4+, 14m. 'The Rubenson Traverse'. Trend diagonally left across the steep and exposed wall, on a line of superb jugs, passing a couple of pegs. Make an exposed move round the arete to a good stance and double-bolt belay.
3) N4+, 20m. Continue up the deep groove system on the left to reach the notch between the horns. Traverse right across the inner face past flakes (exposed) to reach the western arete of the Storhorn and climb this to the top. Cross the gap to a belay on gear on the Lillehorn. Take care with rope work on this pitch. © Rockfax

FA. CW Rubenson, AB Bryn, F Shcjelderup 1910

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50, Lofoten Mid Grade Routes

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Nicholas Wylie 10 Aug AltLd O/S
with Grant
with Grant
Kjaere 7 Aug 2nd
Kjaere 7 Aug 2nd
tastenberg 7 Aug Lead O/S
with Elisabeth Kjæreng
with Elisabeth Kjæreng
Helgelb 2 Aug -
Andelv 27 Jul AltLd Niklas 1,3 Andrea 2
with Niklas
Niklas 1,3 Andrea 2
with Niklas
Ioraa 19 Jul -
cki 13 Jul 2nd
tcn_2002 13 Jul Lead
with cki
with cki
lars.erik.grande 23 Jun -
Psk94 16 Apr Lead O/S Gikk light weigth!
with Martin Myklestad
Gikk light weigth!
with Martin Myklestad
eabdi 9 Sep, 2018 Lead β
Naomi.P 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Incredibly tiring day for a 3 pitch route! Up at 4am planning vestpillaren but the already-restricted weather window had closed in. Got up at 5 to go and look at it anyway and it was dripping. Came down and drove to Svolvær, at which point it started raining. Waited til 9am then started walk in but it rained again so we hid under an inadequate rock and got damper feet. Went and sat under Forsida waiting for it to dry a bit but it didn’t so walked up to the col. Leo tried rappel route which looks like the mega jugs described but first move was hard and wet so I got on p1 of this. A classic example of ‘traditional’ climbing and I’m sure some people would love it! P2 was less traditional and a really fun, exposed pitch. P3 traditional again. I stepped down, got a foot and hand across then got other foot super wide and mantled. After my effort I insisted Leo join me. He disagreed so I hoisted him over. A wet, cold, ‘traditional’ day.
Incredibly tiring day for a 3 pitch route! Up at 4am planning vestpillaren but the already-restricted weather window had closed in. Got up at 5 to go and look at it anyway and it was dripping. Came down and drove to Svolvær, at which point it started raining. Waited til 9am then started walk in but it rained again so we hid under an inadequate rock and got damper feet. Went and sat under Forsida waiting for it to dry a bit but it didn’t so walked up to the col. Leo tried rappel route which looks like the mega jugs described but first move was hard and wet so I got on p1 of this. A classic example of ‘traditional’ climbing and I’m sure some people would love it! P2 was less traditional and a really fun, exposed pitch. P3 traditional again. I stepped down, got a foot and hand across then got other foot super wide and mantled. After my effort I insisted Leo join me. He disagreed so I hoisted him over. A wet, cold, ‘traditional’ day.
leopolian 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Did not successfully step across.
with Naomi.P
Did not successfully step across.
with Naomi.P
Hidden 8 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
saaruli 8 Aug, 2018 2nd
with erik..
with erik..
Gear Lover 8 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Some nice technical bridging moves on 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is easy but has some awesome exposure on the traverse.
Some nice technical bridging moves on 1st pitch. 2nd pitch is easy but has some awesome exposure on the traverse.
Hidden 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
NatCheeseman 31 Jul, 2018 AltLd Lead p2
with tobra
Lead p2
with tobra
Tinuviel 27 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Vidvandre
with Vidvandre
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Christine 17 Jun, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Lars Espen kolberg
with Lars Espen kolberg
Christine 7 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S ledet hele. vanskelig crux med flere forsøk, resten flott og enkel klatring
with Victoria rønnback
ledet hele. vanskelig crux med flere forsøk, resten flott og enkel klatring
with Victoria rønnback
paaljt 19 May, 2018 Lead O/S
Cara 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
Storm Hunter 24 Jul, 2017 -
EspenK 16 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S With Emmi. Wet, and top very windy. Didn't jump. Very cool exposure at the top.
With Emmi. Wet, and top very windy. Didn't jump. Very cool exposure at the top.
Hidden 29 Jun, 2017 2nd
AshJames94 11 Jun, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 5 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
Ross Davidson 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
67hours 23 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S P2,4
with Clay C
P2,4
with Clay C
Graeme Hammond 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd
with Becky E
with Becky E
Bradbury 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S Me P1, Sian P2. Didn't do P3 to the horns as had already summited by Forsida, misprint in guide and others abseiling
with Sian Hughes
Me P1, Sian P2. Didn't do P3 to the horns as had already summited by Forsida, misprint in guide and others abseiling
with Sian Hughes
Maia 19 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S led p1 & 3
with Trevor Wilson
led p1 & 3
with Trevor Wilson
ckroh 18 Aug, 2016 AltLd Did the jump :)
Did the jump :)
Jepaulsen 18 Aug, 2016 -
with Marthe Limstrand
with Marthe Limstrand
Tomaselli ?Aug, 2016 -
maumau 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
lyneux 29 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Tasermiut 29 Jul, 2016 2nd dog
with lyneux
with lyneux
payney1973 26 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Leading 2 x novice, great weather. 2nd pitch is the best only too short.
Leading 2 x novice, great weather. 2nd pitch is the best only too short.
Jim-Roberts-1987 25 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Early to the crag and therefore clear run at the route. Excellent climbing and well worth the steep trek in.
with Various; instructing novices
Early to the crag and therefore clear run at the route. Excellent climbing and well worth the steep trek in.
with Various; instructing novices
leemagowan 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Very exposed at top, make safe on bolts ASAP, went to jump but had two seconds and didn't want to compromised myself. European climbers climbing over my anchors and being rude.
Very exposed at top, make safe on bolts ASAP, went to jump but had two seconds and didn't want to compromised myself. European climbers climbing over my anchors and being rude.
Hidden 20 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Alex Thomson 20 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Russell Shanks, jenpen
with Russell Shanks, jenpen
Hidden 1 Aug, 2015 AltLd dnf
jonnie3430 8 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
rpinto 4 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
aldor 2 Jul, 2015 - Worth doing if its crowded in all the other routes. Good pro
Worth doing if its crowded in all the other routes. Good pro
Peter Reynolds ?Jun, 2015 Lead
Hidden 12 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Samantha Dickson ?Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
with EWhyte
with EWhyte
EWhyte ?Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 13 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
AliMackenzie 10 May, 2013 AltLd
with Ken
with Ken
Hidden ??, 2013 -
Hidden 8 Aug, 2012 Lead
Batt 21 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Great fun in the clag. Lead p2 and onto the top p4 after J's non pitch! Belayed hanging between the two horns since legs too short to sit on small one and reach!
Great fun in the clag. Lead p2 and onto the top p4 after J's non pitch! Belayed hanging between the two horns since legs too short to sit on small one and reach!
Hoyes 20 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
with cymjt, Batt
with cymjt, Batt
Dan Lane 20 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S An entertaining jaunt upto the famous summit in the clag/mist/rain/cold/wind. I led p1.
with Hoyes, Rach Batt
An entertaining jaunt upto the famous summit in the clag/mist/rain/cold/wind. I led p1.
with Hoyes, Rach Batt
Leelogs 5 Jul, 2012 2nd
victim of mathematics 5 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Ran the first 2 pitches together and then abseiled off (having already been to the top). Really good, but covered in a baffling number of pegs, some very new.
with Leelogs
Ran the first 2 pitches together and then abseiled off (having already been to the top). Really good, but covered in a baffling number of pegs, some very new.
with Leelogs
Hidden 3 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2012 -
espenstenberg ?Jul, 2012 2nd O/S
JoelO ?Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S
Jack_Lewin 19 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Nick Lyons
with Nick Lyons
Zoomer 18 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S Climbed as a three, rock soaking, cloud and mist everywhere and blowy. 1st pitch and 3rd. 4c, 4c, 4a but that doesn't tell the story! Old school climbing before a jaw dropping finish. Very awkward to protect the final belay/step across i.e. don't. Clip the bolts, step a cross, get lowered then repeat for the 2nd.
with A Student
Climbed as a three, rock soaking, cloud and mist everywhere and blowy. 1st pitch and 3rd. 4c, 4c, 4a but that doesn't tell the story! Old school climbing before a jaw dropping finish. Very awkward to protect the final belay/step across i.e. don't. Clip the bolts, step a cross, get lowered then repeat for the 2nd.
with A Student
Conan 15 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Ken Taylor
with Ken Taylor
Ken Taylor 15 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Conan Harrod
with Conan Harrod
SturlaS 4 Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 16 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
JenDurden 16 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 1. Terrified at the top--far too scared to jump!
Lead pitch 1. Terrified at the top--far too scared to jump!
Big Lee 15 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S Quality route with some great summit views. Led all three pitches. Top of 1st pitch & first moves of second pitch warrent a 4c in my eyes rather than 4b grades quoted in Rockfax. Declined the jump across the blocks as it looked terrifying and therefore opted to step across which was difficult enough. Then more difficulties trying to step back across to the ab point on the higher block. All good fun.
with Polly Gardiner
Quality route with some great summit views. Led all three pitches. Top of 1st pitch & first moves of second pitch warrent a 4c in my eyes rather than 4b grades quoted in Rockfax. Declined the jump across the blocks as it looked terrifying and therefore opted to step across which was difficult enough. Then more difficulties trying to step back across to the ab point on the higher block. All good fun.
with Polly Gardiner
Hidden 12 Jun, 2011 Lead
tobydunford 5 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Mikkel, bridget143
with Mikkel, bridget143
bridget143 5 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S Film duty, training the Norwegian sport climber into trad ways :-)
with tobydunford, Mikkel
Film duty, training the Norwegian sport climber into trad ways :-)
with tobydunford, Mikkel
Ztephan ?Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
with Marius
with Marius
John Roe 11 Aug, 2009 AltLd Led pitch 2
with Marshall Kinnear
Led pitch 2
with Marshall Kinnear
joeydurkin 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with Patch
with Patch
Hidden 5 Aug, 2009 AltLd
Roch 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd
with MRT
with MRT
Hidden 7 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S
Ing 6 Jul, 2008 2nd
with Stevie G & James
with Stevie G & James
Hexman 1 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Hidden ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 4 Jun, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 11 Jul, 2007 Lead O/S
Elsier ?Jul, 2007 2nd O/S
with Stuart
with Stuart
mattpw ?Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Juha Kaupilla
with Juha Kaupilla
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 AltLd
Hidden 13 Jun, 2005 AltLd O/S
Jody ?May, 2005 Lead O/S Lead 1st and 3rd pitches
with Erkke
Lead 1st and 3rd pitches
with Erkke
Steve Lenartowicz ?Jul, 2004 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
Erkke ??, 2004 AltLd O/S
with Anders, Jody
with Anders, Jody
frotveit 18 Jul, 2003 AltLd
chrishedgehog 8 Jul, 2003 Lead O/S First route in Lofoten! The leap across was certainly the highlight, not least as we did not land in the cemetery.
with Clare Wilkie
First route in Lofoten! The leap across was certainly the highlight, not least as we did not land in the cemetery.
with Clare Wilkie
TobyA 7 Aug, 1998 Lead O/S
with Elina
with Elina
granitbahn ?Jul, 1988 AltLd
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High n5-
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High n4+
Mid n4+
Low n4+
High n4
Mid n4
Low n4
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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DNF
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