UKC

400m. F5+/6a max on fantastic granite which becomes more weathered and rough as height is gained. Good but sparse bolts, worth taking a light rack. After the shoulder retreat by rappel is difficult. Descend by making 10 raps down the main part of the face.

ClimberDateStyle
Peter Metcalfe 08/Sep/17 AltLd

Main difficulty was reaching base of route: topo suggests traversing in from left but cairned path takes Rognon on its R; in late season both involve much negotiating loose rock on the glacier and its bergschrund. The recommended abseil is on on new double bolt anchors with chains: from top of route look for white handrail on ridge across couloir . Line is straightforward to follow , although 5th is hard to see from above; it's in a scoop just under the lip of the slab below the big roof.

Alex Metcalfe 08/Sep/17 AltLd

Stayed in Hut D'Sele. Set off from hut at 5am and arrived at climb about 7am in the dark. Very cold! Lovely climbing up to the shoulder, rock quality takes an 'interesting' turn from there on. The crux is the 4th last pitch which is graded 5C in the guidebook but suspect this is using 'French Technique' - possibly 6a for clean leading. Was truly desperate on lead - especially for those unfamiliar with crack climbing. Abseil stations were there but not always easy to find the most direct line and easy to zig zag. We got to the base by 5:30pm and then back into Ailefroid for pizza by 9pm. Great day!

Hannes B 07/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
with Andy MacKinnon, Robin, Tom
Lumbering Oaf 26/Jul/17 2nd

An adventurous day out. Climbing can be harder than you might expect. We were lucky enough to have had a snow shower overnight which partially melted and refroze as ice in shady areas toward the summit, adding to the 'adventurous' nature of the climb. First two pitches were cold, wet and a bit goey. We then cruised up to about P6 - mostly on the sunny slabs. Then route finding became a problem. Alpine Club Guide description utter shyte from then on it seems. Followed our nose up the left-hand side of the wall after the first broad, block-covered, shoulder and made it to the summit shoulder around 8 hrs after starting. Make sure you abseil off the correct side of the mountain to avoid embarrassment.

HelenB 29/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

A fantastic route but a very long day (18 hours...) - 12 pitches and 9 abseils, finishing in the dark after getting the rope jammed. Climbs were harder for the grade than in Ailefroide and I just led the first two 4C pitches. Rick did a great job finding the abseil points in fading light and descending on Italian hitches after lending his belay plate to Adam.

with AdamK, RickS
Hidden 22/Aug/14 AltLd
augustus trout 22/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

With Bryn Paul and Rob (who has some how become a legend at the Selle Hut!)

Robb Bert 22/Aug/14 AltLd

With Paul Taylor. Ab down as a 4 with Bryn & James. Nearly an epic ! 13 pitch up, 9 abs down. Only 1 minor rope jam incident. Wow

Pete Nugent 10/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

A nice relaxed start, left Sele Hut at about 08.30 and started the route about 10.30. This was about just right as the sun was just beginning to warm the bottom pitch which still felt cold & tricky. We were showered with shards of ice as the sun melted icicles higher up on the face. We completed the route at 16.30 - just within the guide time of 4-6 hours. We located the ab anchors, a French team was just in front so all we had to do was follow them down - what could be easier? However, they were out of sight by the time I reached a breche behind a tower which was 30m down on the first ab - which way, left or right out of the breche? The guide says the abs trend generally right (looking in) so I opted for that choice-wrong!! I subsequently found out from the French team that you shoud exit left (looking in) from the breche on the first ab. They took about 1.5 hours for the descent whereas we took about 4.0 hours and had some anxious moments locating/backing up anchors, releasing jammed ropes etc. We got to the sacks about 20.30 and had a moonlight/torchlight scramble back to the hut at 22.30. On the plus side, we were able to ab directly over the snow patches at the foot of the crag and so reach easy ground without the need for an ice axe. Overall, an excellent and enjoyable route and a fitting finale to my 6 week trip to the Ecrins! We took wires 1-10 & Camalots 0.4, 0.5,0.75, 1,2,3

Hidden 10/Aug/11 -
Hidden ?/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
blouise ?/Aug/09 -
with konrad rawlik
Cardi 22/Jul/08 2nd dnf

Only did one pitch. A bit more committing than we'd hoped for. Started climbing by 7am, and I got hot aches. Bloody long walk in.

with Andy F
jimdanson 14/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with dan middleton
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
Bruce Kerr 05/Aug/91 Lead
with Lyn Benjamin
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