300m, 11 pitches. sustained at F5+/6a. Good bolts but spaced, F6a obl. Fantastic quality granite, with delicate slab and awkward groove pitches contrasting with several butch flake crack pitches.

P. Junique with help from L.Belluard and W. Legrand Jul/1988

Ticklists

Parois-de-legende, Euro Alpine Rock, Ailefroide 2017 Ideas

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mic.snow 28 Aug Show βeta
βeta: After the two 25m rappels, there's a short traversing downclimb that you can protect by weaving the rope around spikes and perhaps a sling or a cam.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After the two 25m rappels, there's a short traversing downclimb that you can protect by weaving the rope around spikes and perhaps a sling or a cam.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
mic.snow 26 Aug AltLd O/S Super easy, but so much fun! The peak looks like Lord of the Rings concept art and is simply unreal when it first appears on the approach to the hut. Highly recommended. We got lucky and were the first team to start the route, so no queues and we did the route in 5 hours. It was a perfect sunny day with almost no wind, so pitch after pitch of cruisy 6a climbing in t-shirt, lovely! The bolting is not as spaced as some descriptions suggest, especially if you're used to the routes around Chamonix. When it's a little runout, it's always easy. Some longer sections have no bolts at all, but there you are basically just walking. We brought some cams just in case, but didn't use them. However, to fully enjoy it, it's probably best if you easily onsight 6a+/b on rock as to not turn it into an all day epic. There were many people struggling, hesitating and pulling on the draws. Pitch 8 was particularly beautiful, steep wall with endless juggy diagonal flakes. Lead pitch 1, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 11.
with Patricia
Super easy, but so much fun! The peak looks like Lord of the Rings concept art and is simply unreal when it first appears on the approach to the hut. Highly recommended. We got lucky and were the first team to start the route, so no queues and we did the route in 5 hours. It was a perfect sunny day with almost no wind, so pitch after pitch of cruisy 6a climbing in t-shirt, lovely! The bolting is not as spaced as some descriptions suggest, especially if you're used to the routes around Chamonix. When it's a little runout, it's always easy. Some longer sections have no bolts at all, but there you are basically just walking. We brought some cams just in case, but didn't use them. However, to fully enjoy it, it's probably best if you easily onsight 6a+/b on rock as to not turn it into an all day epic. There were many people struggling, hesitating and pulling on the draws. Pitch 8 was particularly beautiful, steep wall with endless juggy diagonal flakes. Lead pitch 1, 3, 4, 6, 8, 10, 11.
with Patricia
shah 15 Aug AltLd O/S
rowlandh 15 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 15 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 15 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 15 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
rowlandh 15 Aug AltLd
with shah
with shah
Matt Cooke 30 Jul AltLd O/S
parched 29 Jul 2nd Climbed with Tomek, following Emil and Michal. I mostly was second but led the 3rd pitch and all of the easy ones. Fell twice? as second. Left the refuge at about 9am and got back about 7.30pm. Had to wait a long time at the top for our turn to rap.
with Tomek
Climbed with Tomek, following Emil and Michal. I mostly was second but led the 3rd pitch and all of the easy ones. Fell twice? as second. Left the refuge at about 9am and got back about 7.30pm. Had to wait a long time at the top for our turn to rap.
with Tomek
martinfindlay 6 Jul AltLd O/S Awesome route with some sustained bold climbing (French 6as, so a couple of the pitches felt more like 6bs!). It's 14 pitches if you do the full Visite Obligatoire. Bolts disappear on the ridgeline at the top and when things get easy. There is also a pretty exposed scramble as part of the downclimb after the abseils, so not for the faint hearted!
Awesome route with some sustained bold climbing (French 6as, so a couple of the pitches felt more like 6bs!). It's 14 pitches if you do the full Visite Obligatoire. Bolts disappear on the ridgeline at the top and when things get easy. There is also a pretty exposed scramble as part of the downclimb after the abseils, so not for the faint hearted!
Hidden 4 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Calum Wadsworth 24 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S Left car at 5:30, hut at 7:30 then waited until 10:00 for the fog to clear! Such a good route. More or less all the same difficultly from bottom to top. Lead a 6c variation pitch in the middle somewhere which was very nice, but not 6c. I also proved to Micki that I could be efficient!
Left car at 5:30, hut at 7:30 then waited until 10:00 for the fog to clear! Such a good route. More or less all the same difficultly from bottom to top. Lead a 6c variation pitch in the middle somewhere which was very nice, but not 6c. I also proved to Micki that I could be efficient!
esther ?Aug, 2018 AltLd
Robertgiddy 13 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Best sport climb I've ever done, peak looks like it belongs in Patagonia! Took a small rack, placed a total of 3 cams on entire route, could easily have done it with just draws.
with TeddyC
Best sport climb I've ever done, peak looks like it belongs in Patagonia! Took a small rack, placed a total of 3 cams on entire route, could easily have done it with just draws.
with TeddyC
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 -
BoulderyDave 10 Jul, 2018 - A real experience and tbh shows where I need to train harder. Pulled on some gear and stood on a couple of bolts. Climbing 6a at altitude, with big boots in a rucksack makes it feel like 6b - it isn’t, it’s just much harder in the mountains. We had some great company on the route from the party in front and behind.
A real experience and tbh shows where I need to train harder. Pulled on some gear and stood on a couple of bolts. Climbing 6a at altitude, with big boots in a rucksack makes it feel like 6b - it isn’t, it’s just much harder in the mountains. We had some great company on the route from the party in front and behind.
Hidden 6 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
katiemowbray 21 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
with mike mo
with mike mo
mike mo 21 Jun, 2018 2nd
mike mo 21 Jun, 2018 2nd
mike mo ?Jun, 2018 -
with Charlie, katiemowbray
with Charlie, katiemowbray
NickJH ??, 2018 -
George Ponsonby 26 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 28 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
ferdia 3 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Weaved our way up by various means seeking out good climbing and avoiding queues
Weaved our way up by various means seeking out good climbing and avoiding queues
natetan ?Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Did not place any gear - if comfortable at the grade its not really required. It is just adventurous sport climbing.
Did not place any gear - if comfortable at the grade its not really required. It is just adventurous sport climbing.
mzchambers 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with annep
with annep
annep 15 Aug, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
birks3746 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Probably the best route I've ever done. Lead evens, v small rack (used some in last few pitches). Sunshine all day, climbed in tshirts, absolutely stunning. Pitch after pitch of incredible climbing in all styles
with Alice Browne
Probably the best route I've ever done. Lead evens, v small rack (used some in last few pitches). Sunshine all day, climbed in tshirts, absolutely stunning. Pitch after pitch of incredible climbing in all styles
with Alice Browne
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Jo Stadden 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd
with Chris Barr
with Chris Barr
Chris_barr 12 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S In a day. First route of our summer off.
with Jo
In a day. First route of our summer off.
with Jo
Hidden 7 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
Neil D 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
LucaC 28 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Lead the even pitches. 5hrs
with Tom H
Lead the even pitches. 5hrs
with Tom H
metrorat 28 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Bit off route for the first half, sensational climbing and exposure all the way
with Amy Wight
Bit off route for the first half, sensational climbing and exposure all the way
with Amy Wight
Hidden 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
alexm198 18 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Unreeeeeeeeal! Incredibly sustained climbing, every single pitch is cracking. Led odds including the crux cannelures pitch.
Unreeeeeeeeal! Incredibly sustained climbing, every single pitch is cracking. Led odds including the crux cannelures pitch.
Jessbroadhurst 17 Aug, 2015 2nd
aliem ?Jul, 2015 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 Lead dnf
mike lawrence? 6 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with luca
with luca
Stuart Johnston 31 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Exceptional. 1.5h walk in. A little under 6h for the route (inc queues!)
with Misha Gopaul
Exceptional. 1.5h walk in. A little under 6h for the route (inc queues!)
with Misha Gopaul
augustus trout 15 Aug, 2014 AltLd dnf First four pitches in the bloody snow ... In August!
First four pitches in the bloody snow ... In August!
Hidden 14 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
saaruli 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with erik..
with erik..
Hidden 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Loic_Menzies 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Goldie
with Goldie
rd20 27 Jul, 2014 AltLd dog Fell on P2 as hands and rock too cold. Really enjoyed P8 and P10, though needed a rest on both
with Hquke
Fell on P2 as hands and rock too cold. Really enjoyed P8 and P10, though needed a rest on both
with Hquke
Peter Metcalfe 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd Just first 4 pitches, wandering onto Physique Sans Issue. Abbed off in 3 lengths.
Just first 4 pitches, wandering onto Physique Sans Issue. Abbed off in 3 lengths.
OERees 17 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S Linked top pitches from Madier
Linked top pitches from Madier
richjm ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Josh Fawcett
with Josh Fawcett
aliem ?Jun, 2014 -
pmurdy 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mike W
with Mike W
blaza1 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd
DavidR 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Hol - pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 Amazing bit of rock!
Hol - pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 Amazing bit of rock!
Jake Young 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S The best route of the trip, amazing!
with blaza1
The best route of the trip, amazing!
with blaza1
Andrew Sloan 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led even pitches.Pitch 5 is the crux, sustained and probably 6b. Took 6.5 hours
Led even pitches.Pitch 5 is the crux, sustained and probably 6b. Took 6.5 hours
Martin Haworth 15 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Outstanding route. Very sustained at 6a and 6a+, I think the crux 5th pitch is worth 6b. Also some of the hard moves are quite runout.
Outstanding route. Very sustained at 6a and 6a+, I think the crux 5th pitch is worth 6b. Also some of the hard moves are quite runout.
John Carney 8 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2012 AltLd
QuentinSu ?Sep, 2012 AltLd β
Andy Clarke 27 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Beautiful climb - a real modern classic. One I've wanted to do ever since the Madier 9 years ago, and it didn't disappoint. Technical, sustained and varied, from intricate balancy slabs where you carefully tease out the moves, to glorious grabby flakes where you just look up and go. All this, plus great chocolate tarts just 10 minutes away in the Soreiller hut. What more could you want? Tim P1, me P2 etc.
with Tim
Beautiful climb - a real modern classic. One I've wanted to do ever since the Madier 9 years ago, and it didn't disappoint. Technical, sustained and varied, from intricate balancy slabs where you carefully tease out the moves, to glorious grabby flakes where you just look up and go. All this, plus great chocolate tarts just 10 minutes away in the Soreiller hut. What more could you want? Tim P1, me P2 etc.
with Tim
Hidden 17 Jul, 2012 Lead
smokeyj ?Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with DannyC
with DannyC
Hidden ?Jun, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd
Paul Bowen ?Aug, 2011 AltLd Did the 6a 6c 7a+ then 5+ back on route then the 6c 6b option higher up so a mixture of 2 routes
with bec
Did the 6a 6c 7a+ then 5+ back on route then the 6c 6b option higher up so a mixture of 2 routes
with bec
Hidden 5 Jul, 2011 Lead
Sankey 5 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S Flipping amazing. 12 top notch pitches to a stunning top. Possibly my most enjoyable days rock climbing.
with Tony (Jon and Ed also on route)
Flipping amazing. 12 top notch pitches to a stunning top. Possibly my most enjoyable days rock climbing.
with Tony (Jon and Ed also on route)
pawelx 10 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Amazing route. Alpine Club guidebook does have the wrong photo - we used a printed-out topo from camptocamp instead. Climbing is fairly sustained at its grade, of the 12 pitches 10 are right at around 6a. I don't understand why some people say these pitches are easy for the grade, AC guidebook I think has got only 3 or 4 pitches as “5/6a”, someone here wrote that there are maybe only 2 pitches of 6a, rest is easier. I disagree – all 9 or 10 pitches graded 6a or 6a+ on camptocamp, were of comparable difficulty to any other 6a that I’ve climbed in popular crags in Spain, France, Italy, Austria, Portland….
Amazing route. Alpine Club guidebook does have the wrong photo - we used a printed-out topo from camptocamp instead. Climbing is fairly sustained at its grade, of the 12 pitches 10 are right at around 6a. I don't understand why some people say these pitches are easy for the grade, AC guidebook I think has got only 3 or 4 pitches as “5/6a”, someone here wrote that there are maybe only 2 pitches of 6a, rest is easier. I disagree – all 9 or 10 pitches graded 6a or 6a+ on camptocamp, were of comparable difficulty to any other 6a that I’ve climbed in popular crags in Spain, France, Italy, Austria, Portland….
quiffhanger ?Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S Stunning.
Stunning.
Phileas Fauntleroy 25 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
with Richard Lade
loxley 25 Aug, 2009 AltLd
with john lade
with john lade
Hidden ?Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 28 Jul, 2009 AltLd Great climb. We did the version in the Alpine Club Guide which is very different to the French guide version. The so called origional start has very run out bolts. The AC guide also takes you through a 7a roof! The French (correct?) version looks a lot more mellow.
with Philippa
Great climb. We did the version in the Alpine Club Guide which is very different to the French guide version. The so called origional start has very run out bolts. The AC guide also takes you through a 7a roof! The French (correct?) version looks a lot more mellow.
with Philippa
Hidden 25 Jun, 2009 AltLd
Lou Kennedy 24 Jun, 2009 AltLd
edek_w 11 Jul, 2007 - You just MUST climb it !!!
You just MUST climb it !!!
jimdanson 21 Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
with dan middleton
with dan middleton
Hidden ?Aug, 2006 AltLd
jev ??, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Jonas
with Jonas
graniterocks ?Sep, 2005 AltLd β
with Anirban Gupta
with Anirban Gupta
Hidden ??, 2005 2nd
DaveHK 20 Jul, 2003 AltLd
with John Watson
with John Watson
Campbell42 ?Aug, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
with Chris Wilson
ericinbristol ?Jul, 1996 AltLd O/S
with Richard Nadin
with Richard Nadin
crossleysm ?Jun, 1996 -
with Paul Henderson
with Paul Henderson
Bruce Kerr 23 Jul, 1991 Lead
with Lyn Benjamin
with Lyn Benjamin
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Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
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