300m, 11 pitches. sustained at F5+/6a. Good bolts but spaced, F6a obl. Fantastic quality granite, with delicate slab and awkward groove pitches contrasting with several butch flake crack pitches.

P. Junique with help from L.Belluard and W. Legrand Jul/1988

Ticklists: Parois-de-legende, Mark's Alpine Ideas 2017, Euro Alpine Rock.

George Ponsonby 26/Oct/17 AltLd O/S
pie_eater_pete 28/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
LDudill 03/Sep/17 Lead O/S

delicate 6a slab pitches def crux, felt more like e3 with bolt spacing! Class route though, delicate slabs contrasted with huge flake pulling. Took a small rack, cams useful to supplement the bolts, think I placed 1 wire ?

ferdia 03/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Weaved our way up by various means seeking out good climbing and avoiding queues

natetan ?/Sep/17 AltLd O/S

Did not place any gear - if comfortable at the grade its not really required. It is just adventurous sport climbing.

mzchambers 15/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Anne
annep 15/Aug/17 AltLd
Hidden 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
birks3746 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Probably the best route I've ever done. Lead evens, v small rack (used some in last few pitches). Sunshine all day, climbed in tshirts, absolutely stunning. Pitch after pitch of incredible climbing in all styles

with Alice Browne
Hidden 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Jo Stadden 12/Jul/17 AltLd
with Chris Barr
Chris_barr 12/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

In a day. First route of our summer off.

with Jo
Hidden 07/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Neil D 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S
LJC 28/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Lead the even pitches. 5hrs

with Tom H
metrorat 28/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Bit off route for the first half, sensational climbing and exposure all the way

with Amy Wight
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
alexm198 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Unreeeeeeeeal! Incredibly sustained climbing, every single pitch is cracking. Led odds including the crux cannelures pitch.

aliem ?/Jul/15 -
Hidden 26/Jun/15 Lead dnf
mike lawrence? 06/Sep/14 AltLd
with luca
Stuart Johnston 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Exceptional. 1.5h walk in. A little under 6h for the route (inch queues!)

with Misha Gopaul
augustus trout 15/Aug/14 AltLd dnf

First four pitches in the bloody snow ... In August!

Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
saaruli 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Erik
Hidden 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
loic.menzies 27/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Goldie
rd20 27/Jul/14 AltLd dog

Fell on P2 as hands and rock too cold. Really enjoyed P8 and P10, though needed a rest on both

with Hquke
Peter Metcalfe 17/Jul/14 AltLd

Just first 4 pitches, wandering onto Physique Sans Issue. Abbed off in 3 lengths.

OERees 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Linked top pitches from Madier

richjm ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Josh Fawcett
aliem ?/Jun/14 -
pmurdy 16/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Mike W
blaza1 14/Aug/13 AltLd
DavidR 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Hol - pitches 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12 Me - pitches 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11 Amazing bit of rock!

Jake Young 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

The best route of the trip, amazing!

Andrew Sloan 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led even pitches.Pitch 5 is the crux, sustained and probably 6b. Took 6.5 hours

Martin Haworth 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Outstanding route. Very sustained at 6a and 6a+, I think the crux 5th pitch is worth 6b. Also some of the hard moves are quite runout.

with Andy
John Carney 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/12 AltLd
QuentinSu ?/Sep/12 AltLd β
Andy Clarke 27/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Beautiful climb - a real modern classic. One I've wanted to do ever since the Madier 9 years ago, and it didn't disappoint. Technical, sustained and varied, from intricate balancy slabs where you carefully tease out the moves, to glorious grabby flakes where you just look up and go. All this, plus great chocolate tarts just 10 minutes away in the Soreiller hut. What more could you want? Tim P1, me P2 etc.

with Tim
Hidden 17/Jul/12 Lead
smokeyj ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Danny
TonyF ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Paul Bowen ?/Aug/11 AltLd

Did the 6a 6c 7a+ then 5+ back on route then the 6c 6b option higher up so a mixture of 2 routes

jshields 05/Jul/11 Lead

Steve and Tony also on route, great day. One of the best climbs I have ever done!

Sankey 05/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Flipping amazing. 12 top notch pitches to a stunning top. Possibly my most enjoyable days rock climbing.

with Tony (Jon and Ed also on route)
pawelx 10/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Alpine Club guidebook does have the wrong photo - we used a printed-out topo from camptocamp instead. Climbing is fairly sustained at its grade, of the 12 pitches 10 are right at around 6a. I don't understand why some people say these pitches are easy for the grade, AC guidebook I think has got only 3 or 4 pitches as “5/6a”, someone here wrote that there are maybe only 2 pitches of 6a, rest is easier. I disagree – all 9 or 10 pitches graded 6a or 6a+ on camptocamp, were of comparable difficulty to any other 6a that I’ve climbed in popular crags in Spain, France, Italy, Austria, Portland….

quiffhanger ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S


Phileas Fauntleroy 25/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with Richard Lade
loxley 25/Aug/09 AltLd
with john lade
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Shaw Brown 28/Jul/09 AltLd

Great climb. We did the version in the Alpine Club Guide which is very different to the French guide version. The so called origional start has very run out bolts. The AC guide also takes you through a 7a roof! The French (correct?) version looks a lot more mellow.

with Philippa
Hidden 25/Jun/09 AltLd
Lou Kennedy 24/Jun/09 AltLd
edek_w 11/Jul/07 -

You just MUST climb it !!!

jimdanson 21/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with dan middleton
Hidden ?/Aug/06 AltLd
jev ??/2006 AltLd O/S
with Jonas
graniterocks ?/Sep/05 AltLd β
with Anirban Gupta
Hidden ??/2005 2nd
Dave Kerr 20/Jul/03 AltLd
with John Watson
Campbell42 ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
with Chris Wilson
ericinbristol ?/Jul/96 AltLd O/S
with Richard Nadin
Bruce Kerr 23/Jul/91 Lead
with Lyn Benjamin
38 users have this on their wishlist
High ED1
Mid ED1
Low ED1
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set