No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: UK road to wide crack mastery.


ClimberDateStyle
kylos8048 30/Sep Lead O/S

Not for the faint hearted. I climbed this stupidly with a single set of DMM dragons up to size 5 blue. No hexes or big gear and it was horrific, physical and scary. At one point 35m up looking at the 10m gap to my last gear and the next 10m that had nothing promising for any more, I did question my sanity of being in such a position with my size 6 cam being at the top of the cliff in my bag. I imagine this to be the Striapach of the prow. E3/4 5b is how it felt to me. With a harness full of size 6 (or bigger) cams and a few size 5 to boot you could make an argument for E2 5b. Harder than thunder road, Marconi or GBH.

masa-alpin 02/Jun Lead G/U

What a route! 30m of continuous and relentless off-width!! I didn't know such a route exists in the UK. Superb. In the uppermost section, I was running out of the big guns and resorted in a marginal skyhook... In 2 sections my foot took some weight on the cam placed.

Anti-faff 02/Jun 2nd dog

Awesome lead by Masa, protected the top 5 metres with a hook as he ran out of big gear! Only one star for the best line on The Prow and 30 metres of offwidth climbing seems a bit odd. E2 5b 3*

with Masa
Hidden 10/Jun/15 Lead dnf
duncan 10/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Hanging belay 10m from top. Bailed into upper chimney of Wagger Moon at this point. "Not as vicious as it looks" says the guidebook; correctly, it's actually much worse. Tough for E1 even by Fair Head standards, clearly harder than Elder Crack for example.

KKilroy ?/Jun/15 Lead

Round 2 and still not enough cams. Made it up but think I ended up putting a runner on the ab rope for the finale as the last green cam was miles below and there was a tricky move near the top. E3 and a half at least!

with chris
KKilroy 04/May/14 Lead dnf

Wow! Come prepared with lots of big red cams (#5)and a couple of greens (#6). I think the only way to jam this thing "easily" is the two handed butterfly jammy thing. It is the most fantastic never ending struggle. Don't try it in the rain and don't wear waterproofs. It really needs a good scrub and is surely one of the king lines of Fairhead right on the arĂȘte of the prow. Fair play Calvin and Dermot.

with Lou
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 4
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 3
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
DNF
Onsighted
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set