Approach as for the Dome de Neige, and then cross the bergshrund to reach the ridge in 1-2 rope lengths. Follow the ridge to the summit.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Adamski1986 2 Sep, 2018 Lead
Tony Myers 2 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Elle bemd, Adamski1986
with Elle bemd, Adamski1986
smelliedebs ?Sep, 2018 AltLd
with Tony, Adamski1986
with Tony, Adamski1986
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
Jonny M 19 Jul, 2018 AltLd dnf
with samkat
with samkat
Lukas_F 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
mattgrange 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd Longer and trickier than I was expecting, some good weather, some cloud and chilly gusts. The ridge scrambling is excellent, the glacier slog merely tiring. Lukas did a splendid job leading the ridge. The view down the south face is quite something! About 7.5 hours round trip from Ecrins hut, then another 3 hours to Pre de Mme Carle, phew!
Longer and trickier than I was expecting, some good weather, some cloud and chilly gusts. The ridge scrambling is excellent, the glacier slog merely tiring. Lukas did a splendid job leading the ridge. The view down the south face is quite something! About 7.5 hours round trip from Ecrins hut, then another 3 hours to Pre de Mme Carle, phew!
Butler! 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd
adamvisick 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd First proper alpine experience! Got up at 2:30 from a lovely bivvy in prime conditions. Walk up was quick, ridge was not. Learnt to Simu climb whilst on the ridge which proved interesting. Quite busy and ended up getting back onto the glacier around 1/2. An epic day!
with Butler!
First proper alpine experience! Got up at 2:30 from a lovely bivvy in prime conditions. Walk up was quick, ridge was not. Learnt to Simu climb whilst on the ridge which proved interesting. Quite busy and ended up getting back onto the glacier around 1/2. An epic day!
with Butler!
Stuart_Burbidge 19 Jun, 2018 -
Kinge 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd RP
with Stopsy, treesrockice, Stu Bur
with Stopsy, treesrockice, Stu Bur
treesrockice 19 Jun, 2018 - Walked up day before ay bivi-ed at Evrin hut. Got up at 2.30 was on the glacier roped up walking in just before 4am, got to base of crux ridge/col at 7am summited by nine got back to the van in the car park by ... 7pm ish
Walked up day before ay bivi-ed at Evrin hut. Got up at 2.30 was on the glacier roped up walking in just before 4am, got to base of crux ridge/col at 7am summited by nine got back to the van in the car park by ... 7pm ish
Stopsy 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Roberttaylor ?Jun, 2018 AltLd Moving together in descent after the South Pillar. Final ridge in good condition (neve).
Moving together in descent after the South Pillar. Final ridge in good condition (neve).
aldoh 23 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Turned back 250m from summit due to my climbing partner fatigue
Turned back 250m from summit due to my climbing partner fatigue
Hidden 5 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
BALD EAGLE 14 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Sophie Philbrick, Rich Ive
with Sophie Philbrick, Rich Ive
HimTiggins 12 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with George
with George
Hidden 26 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Pero 26 Jul, 2017 - Cold and windy but very good.
Cold and windy but very good.
CharleyAnn 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
robgixer 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
James Gordon ?Jul, 2017 -
Tim Sparrow 26 Jul, 2016 - Bailed on Barre Noire Couloir as snow very unfrozen. Enjoyable romp along the ridge but very busy.
with Geoff Thomas
Bailed on Barre Noire Couloir as snow very unfrozen. Enjoyable romp along the ridge but very busy.
with Geoff Thomas
HelenB 26 Jul, 2016 - Hard work walking up in soft snow. Pitched the climb up Breche Lory and moved together along the ridge. A long way to the final summit - a few parties turned back at Peak Lory.
with RickS
Hard work walking up in soft snow. Pitched the climb up Breche Lory and moved together along the ridge. A long way to the final summit - a few parties turned back at Peak Lory.
with RickS
Kinge 21 Jul, 2016 Lead dnf Turned around about 100m below the summit due to time and what looked like a closing weather window. Oh well, there'll always be next time!
with Cal, MichaelJohn
Turned around about 100m below the summit due to time and what looked like a closing weather window. Oh well, there'll always be next time!
with Cal, MichaelJohn
MarkJB ?Jul, 2016 -
with Ignacy Czajewski, Louise Kennedy, Andrew Bonham
with Ignacy Czajewski, Louise Kennedy, Andrew Bonham
Zoe Cockburn ?Jul, 2016 - Ascended from the bergschrund direct to the ridge, just to the S of the breche rock step. Great exposed scrambling but unfortunately had to turn back at Pic Lory due to high winds. Fresh snow on the face.
Ascended from the bergschrund direct to the ridge, just to the S of the breche rock step. Great exposed scrambling but unfortunately had to turn back at Pic Lory due to high winds. Fresh snow on the face.
jeremyvanr 28 Aug, 2015 -
with Jim Webster
with Jim Webster
Chuck 27 Aug, 2015 -
with Giles Ruck
with Giles Ruck
neal 19 Aug, 2015 - First up. Fresh snow the night before gave a little soft windslab on the chicane through the seracs and made the summit ridge a little more tricky, but all good. Rimaye easy, abbed in descent (2x25m abseils).
First up. Fresh snow the night before gave a little soft windslab on the chicane through the seracs and made the summit ridge a little more tricky, but all good. Rimaye easy, abbed in descent (2x25m abseils).
bobelvedere 18 Aug, 2015 -
with Anna Wulff Christensen
with Anna Wulff Christensen
OliverRoss 6 Aug, 2015 -
JessWilliams 6 Aug, 2015 -
Hidden ?Aug, 2015 -
Sam Cooke ?Jul, 2015 - Turned around after the Bergshchund due to high winds.
with Amanda
Turned around after the Bergshchund due to high winds.
with Amanda
TomGB 11 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Great ridge, no views unfortunately. Finished in good time, first 4000m!
with Oliver Russell, Alex Burgess
Great ridge, no views unfortunately. Finished in good time, first 4000m!
with Oliver Russell, Alex Burgess
Hoyes 7 Aug, 2014 Solo dnf
with Batt
with Batt
Hidden ?Aug, 2014 -
beeney ?Aug, 2014 - Terrifying crossing the big bergschrund, but wonderful!
Terrifying crossing the big bergschrund, but wonderful!
Hidden 11 Sep, 2013 -
davebrox 29 Aug, 2013 -
with Fiona
with Fiona
Rumbo 13 Aug, 2013 - Nice conditions, it seemed a long way down to the car though!
with Dougle
Nice conditions, it seemed a long way down to the car though!
with Dougle
Small and weak ?Aug, 2013 AltLd with Matthew and Adam Bridges
with Paul Bridges
with Matthew and Adam Bridges
with Paul Bridges
RM199 25 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Serious, ad- in new book
Serious, ad- in new book
islandlynx ?Jul, 2013 - finish a few metres short of summit for weather though it didnt really materialise. great route though. made it harder by doing a rather tricky climb to start the ridge instead walking round the initial rock face
finish a few metres short of summit for weather though it didnt really materialise. great route though. made it harder by doing a rather tricky climb to start the ridge instead walking round the initial rock face
tobydunford 30 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
olekemi 21 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Climbed the face up until we took on the summit North Face Direct Finish, whereas the whole route was used for descent.
with Andrew T
Climbed the face up until we took on the summit North Face Direct Finish, whereas the whole route was used for descent.
with Andrew T
jonnie3430 10 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S The rigde traverse is harder than PD+ in my experience, AD I reckon. (But what do I know?)
with Emily
The rigde traverse is harder than PD+ in my experience, AD I reckon. (But what do I know?)
with Emily
thomb 24 Aug, 2011 - Easy progress on the standard trek up, so we decided to veer off and tackle the north face direct. Bigger and looser than it looked from the path. Would have been a good idea to have taken more to protect our climb than just slings..! A memorable first alpine route either way. ***
Easy progress on the standard trek up, so we decided to veer off and tackle the north face direct. Bigger and looser than it looked from the path. Would have been a good idea to have taken more to protect our climb than just slings..! A memorable first alpine route either way. ***
Steve Woollard 18 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Gareth T 10 Aug, 2011 Lead dnf
with Charles, Mouse Matt
with Charles, Mouse Matt
Marq 25 Jul, 2011 -
with James Pearson
with James Pearson
Hidden 21 Jul, 2011 AltLd dnf
A Reid ??, 2011 -
Sankey 7 Aug, 2010 - From the breche. Quite difficult mixed conditions with a recent fresh snow-fall.
with Ed, Andy E
From the breche. Quite difficult mixed conditions with a recent fresh snow-fall.
with Ed, Andy E
climberuk 15 Jul, 2010 - Crevasse over normal route meant going up on steeper ground towards the start of the east ridge then traversing all the way across to breche lory. Turned around a short way along traverse as the clag descended. By the time we got back to the glacier the weather had improved. Lots of serac collapse going on due to mild conditions.
with Griff
Crevasse over normal route meant going up on steeper ground towards the start of the east ridge then traversing all the way across to breche lory. Turned around a short way along traverse as the clag descended. By the time we got back to the glacier the weather had improved. Lots of serac collapse going on due to mild conditions.
with Griff
Hidden ?Jul, 2010 AltLd
Gazleah 11 Jun, 2010 - set off at 3am, turned back short of the dom de neige due to visibility being less than 2m. Everyone else turned back that day too due to the weather. close call on the way down due to tracks being snowed over
set off at 3am, turned back short of the dom de neige due to visibility being less than 2m. Everyone else turned back that day too due to the weather. close call on the way down due to tracks being snowed over
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
MoWalker3 6 Aug, 2009 -
aged_ape 25 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with MD
with MD
JimBee 1 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
with Matt Vivian, Graham Taylor, Ian Whitehead
with Matt Vivian, Graham Taylor, Ian Whitehead
Peter Metcalfe 21 Aug, 2008 -
with Rafael Bleakley, Rob Hopkins
with Rafael Bleakley, Rob Hopkins
Hidden 20 Aug, 2008 -
mulletcocktail2000 30 Jul, 2008 Solo dnf backed off at 3 in the morning, half way up the face, due to at least two serac avalanches in close proximity.
with joe
backed off at 3 in the morning, half way up the face, due to at least two serac avalanches in close proximity.
with joe
Hidden 28 Jul, 2008 AltLd
Cardi 25 Jul, 2008 - Awesome experience, 1st 4000m peak. Left at 6pm from carpark, bivi by the glacier for a couple of hours without sleeping bags, then left at 3am. Summit at 8am. Summit ridge was great fun.
with Andy F
Awesome experience, 1st 4000m peak. Left at 6pm from carpark, bivi by the glacier for a couple of hours without sleeping bags, then left at 3am. Summit at 8am. Summit ridge was great fun.
with Andy F
CarolineH 24 Jul, 2008 - First 4000m peak, and 1st on the summit that day! Exposure on ridge was awesome, but rather blustery.
First 4000m peak, and 1st on the summit that day! Exposure on ridge was awesome, but rather blustery.
Bristoldave 24 Jul, 2008 - First on summit that day.
First on summit that day.
Mark Walter ?Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Andy J
with Andy J
innes ?Aug, 2007 Lead O/S
with Ruth
with Ruth
Rjukan ?Jul, 2007 -
with Tom E, and Tom P
with Tom E, and Tom P
tom.e ?Jul, 2007 -
with Chris Wall, Tom Powell
with Chris Wall, Tom Powell
Mr Powly ?Jul, 2007 -
with Tom Everett, Chris Wall
with Tom Everett, Chris Wall
Martin Haworth ?Jul, 2006 Lead O/S
with some bloke
with some bloke
Chris L Hill ?Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Simon Pearce
with Simon Pearce
star8ug 16 Jun, 2006 2nd O/S first 4000'er
with guided - francois lombard
first 4000'er
with guided - francois lombard
spoony84 ??, 2006 - with bear and daz
with bear and daz
Ed Saint ?Aug, 2005 -
JonHarvey ?Jul, 2005 AltLd dnf Second peak attempted day after doing Les Agneaux during my first proper alpine season,, got onto ridge to about 4015m ,, retreated due to lack of experience ,, great to be on ridge though and what a fantastic mountain! planning to go back to Les Ecrins soon :)
with Michael Maben
Second peak attempted day after doing Les Agneaux during my first proper alpine season,, got onto ridge to about 4015m ,, retreated due to lack of experience ,, great to be on ridge though and what a fantastic mountain! planning to go back to Les Ecrins soon :)
with Michael Maben
Fiskavaig ?Jul, 2004 Lead Reached high point of 3800m, had to turn back due to lack of fitness, and affects of altitude on two members of team. Fantastic weather, fantastic experience. lessons learned. Our first real attempt at a 4000m peak.
with Steve Bridg, Bob L, Paul R
Reached high point of 3800m, had to turn back due to lack of fitness, and affects of altitude on two members of team. Fantastic weather, fantastic experience. lessons learned. Our first real attempt at a 4000m peak.
with Steve Bridg, Bob L, Paul R
FrankW 19 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
with James R
with James R
dan gibson ?Aug, 2002 Solo
Andy Clarke 23 Jul, 2001 AltLd
with GrahamB, Mike
with GrahamB, Mike
crossleysm ??, 2001 AltLd c. 2001. Too hot/ snow too soft to summit
c. 2001. Too hot/ snow too soft to summit
Dom Goodwin 30 Jul, 1999 -
with Peter
with Peter
tallthinmonkey ?Jul, 1998 2nd
with Ewan Paterson
with Ewan Paterson
Hidden ?Jun, 1998 -
SiRob ?Aug, 1997 -
pete johnson ?Jul, 1997 -
with Lun
with Lun
Tim Bateman ?Jul, 1996 - Reached Pic Lory at 4088 but had to retreat due to bad weather
Reached Pic Lory at 4088 but had to retreat due to bad weather
Campbell42 ?Aug, 1992 Lead O/S
with Mike Bottomley
with Mike Bottomley
Iain Thow 12 Jul, 1985 Solo
with Paul Eastwood
with Paul Eastwood
Hidden 3 Aug, 1976 Solo
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Voting
High AD
Mid AD
Low AD
High AD-
Mid AD-
Low AD-
High PD+
Mid PD+
Low PD+
High PD
Mid PD
Low PD
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set