Rockfax Description
120m. Some beautiful slab climbing which was partially re-bolted in 2010 and the first pitch is now well equipped. The higher pitches may feel bold but the climbing is fairly amenable.
1) 5c, 2) 5b. The bolting is slightly strange on the overlaps of this pitch and at times you need to commit to the move to see the next bolt. They are there if you go for it! At the top of the pitch are two belays - go to the higher one.
3) 5a, 4) 5c.
Descent - Abseil back down the route but keep an eye out for an independent anchor which makes the final abseil more direct. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
On the wall opposite the Aiguillette. 4 pitches: F5c, F5a, F5a F4c
Ticklists
Chamonix Valley "Easy" Multipitches
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| mchardski | 3 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: If u are at all inclined, take your cheating quickdraw. I didnt and regretted it. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: If u are at all inclined, take your cheating quickdraw. I didnt and regretted it. |
||||
| Webster | 30 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: there is no belay between pitches 3 and 4 as per the rockfax topo, requiring them to be run together in about 55m (or belay off of 1 bolt and some nuts). pitch 4 is scrappy and unstable and requires pulling on exposed shrubbery for the final move to the chains. above this there is another pitch of easier looking climbing (well bolted) which would get you to the top of the crag and a walk off | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: there is no belay between pitches 3 and 4 as per the rockfax topo, requiring them to be run together in about 55m (or belay off of 1 bolt and some nuts). pitch 4 is scrappy and unstable and requires pulling on exposed shrubbery for the final move to the chains. above this there is another pitch of easier looking climbing (well bolted) which would get you to the top of the crag and a walk off |
||||
| Osiris | 7 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Take an 80m or twin ropes | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Take an 80m or twin ropes |
||||
| mic.snow | 3 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: P4 seems to have new bolts added, the crux is now nicely protected. There's a 5th pitch added that looks very easy. We didn't climb it, so not sure if it's complete and equipped for abseil. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: P4 seems to have new bolts added, the crux is now nicely protected. There's a 5th pitch added that looks very easy. We didn't climb it, so not sure if it's complete and equipped for abseil. |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Voie de l'EMHM
Grade: 5c ***
(Aiguilles Rouges)