20m. My perception is that many climbers are solely interested in climbing and are quite blinkered and oblivious to the natural environment in which they climb. To climb at Hope's Nose is a privilege, not a right, and in doing so, you enter the habitat of fantastic species such as oyster catchers, kestrels, rock pipits and, indeed, stonechats. The Stonechat Test is thus: if you don't know what a stonechat is, then f*ck off and climb somewhere else.

As for the problem, it's either the best boulder traverse in the country, or it's 50 scratty moves on sharp, snappy holds. Basically, it's a sweeping, sustained right-to-left traverse of the crag, full of varied, technical sequences and excellent moves. Climb Vikhr-4, reverse the start of Death of the Belay Bunny (entertaining in its own right), have a bit of a shake-out then creep leftwards on poor holds until things get a bit easier around Roots Manoeuvre. Keep going left through The Cider Press - still pumpy - until big holds and easy ground show up.

FA. Alexis Perry 28/Mar/2019.

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