80m, 3 pitches. Takes the obvious weakness starting between Opening Gambit and Willey’s Last Stramash before climbing a dramatically exposed diagonal line rightwards across the headwall. The rock on the first pitch is loose in places but much better on the last two pitches.
1. 40m 5a Start from the top of a rock and grass scramble 20m left of the cave of Willey’s Last Stramash. Climb the obvious line of grooves and cracks trending slightly leftwards over a series of ledges until steep and awkward moves gain a stance level with a band of double overhangs to the right.
2. 25m 5b Climb up slightly left into a niche topped by a roof crack. Pull out rightwards from the right side of this niche to gain a horizontal break and then flake-cracks which lead diagonally rightwards across the headwall to a bridging rest beneath a roof. Rock up back left to a large comfy ledge.
3. 15m 5a The overhanging off-width corner proves an awkward finish.

I Parnell, J Winter 20/Sep/2013.

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