Restricted Access
Nesting birds on the top so no routes are permitted. Bouldering is OK according to the land owner.
Start on the outside of the right-hand cave (beach side) The right-hand wall is scooped with a high roof. Sds start. Right hand on the arete and left in a small pocket low down. Feet on the side wall. Pull upto a sloper on the lip. Match this and pull up to a crimp, then gain the good edge out left. Drop onto the finger rail and follow this until you can move up through the roof to the good small edges (shared with Pete's Roof Traverse) but rather than moving up to left to the jugs, swing right to the right arête and an easy finish.
FA. Phil Targett 01/May/2019.
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Route of Interest
Everything in its right place
Grade: f6C ***
(Ogof Moryn and Pedolau)