75m, 2 pitches. A brilliant route, the original and easiest way up this impressive face. Quite cruxy, hard E4 or bottom end E5 - if you want a more rounded E5 experience, do the direct start.

Arnis Strapcans 1979

Ticklists

Good E4s, MRes Ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Underdeveloped

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
JendeHoxar 18 Apr 2nd dog
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 18 Apr Lead O/S
markalmack 25 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
with will-i-am-old-as-fuck
Hidden 19 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
ferdia 17 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Sam Harvie
with Sam Harvie
tprebs 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Absolutely amazing! wanted to do this since the first time I came to fairhead in 2011. Started up in the mist but it cleared for the crux. Got a no hands rest underneath the letterbox and composed my self for a while. Such a cool route
Absolutely amazing! wanted to do this since the first time I came to fairhead in 2011. Started up in the mist but it cleared for the crux. Got a no hands rest underneath the letterbox and composed my self for a while. Such a cool route
liamo333 4 Jun, 2018 AltLd
George Ponsonby 2 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Jun, 2018 AltLd G/U
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 26 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U Led both pitches. Would've been onsight but had to lower off earlier in the week when a storm came in. Great position up the initial arête and cool moves through the roof - had a lot of beta which helped. Darkness was approaching as I urgently went up the second pitch. Stayed in the right hand crack the whole way despite the description. Good moves and a great position. Psyched to do a route up this amazing wall after a week of crap weather. Feels a bit Jurassic Park at the bottom.
with Roisin
Led both pitches. Would've been onsight but had to lower off earlier in the week when a storm came in. Great position up the initial arête and cool moves through the roof - had a lot of beta which helped. Darkness was approaching as I urgently went up the second pitch. Stayed in the right hand crack the whole way despite the description. Good moves and a great position. Psyched to do a route up this amazing wall after a week of crap weather. Feels a bit Jurassic Park at the bottom.
with Roisin
Shea 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P1. Truly amazing climbing, and totally safe. A slow buildup of climbing from HVS - E1 - E2 - E3 to get established under the roof, then some excellent bouldery moves through the crux. Fantastic
with Luke Davis
Led P1. Truly amazing climbing, and totally safe. A slow buildup of climbing from HVS - E1 - E2 - E3 to get established under the roof, then some excellent bouldery moves through the crux. Fantastic
with Luke Davis
Hidden 3 Jun, 2017 AltLd G/U
Saul Calvert 22 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
Rory_Cummings_NI 22 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S Pitch 1
with Ali, Saul Calvert
Pitch 1
with Ali, Saul Calvert
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Hidden 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd β
GeoffSomerville 30 Jul, 2016 Lead RP Nice to find this chalked up, thanks Martin Dunne, Conor McGovern and Joe H. We saw chalk on Above and Beyond as well, did you guys get on that too?
Nice to find this chalked up, thanks Martin Dunne, Conor McGovern and Joe H. We saw chalk on Above and Beyond as well, did you guys get on that too?
Hidden 27 Jul, 2016 2nd dog
Hidden 8 Jun, 2016 Lead G/U
Ri 8 Jun, 2016 Lead rpt
D.Russell 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
mshorter 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
samwillo 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Uisdean hawthorn 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
brices 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Remus made the first pitch look a little to easy, great positions on a great piece of rock
with remus
Remus made the first pitch look a little to easy, great positions on a great piece of rock
with remus
shed_hed 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Led P2. Good steady first pitch with one really hard moves, was nearly off moving up from the letter box. P2 is more sustained with cool funky slopey/slanting climbing - not over until you're at the top! A bit lichen covered at the very start but doesn't detract.
with Dave (Fairhead)
Led P2. Good steady first pitch with one really hard moves, was nearly off moving up from the letter box. P2 is more sustained with cool funky slopey/slanting climbing - not over until you're at the top! A bit lichen covered at the very start but doesn't detract.
with Dave (Fairhead)
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
dcussen ?Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
GraMc 31 May, 2016 AltLd O/S awsome, almost didnt make the crux move till i found a wee kneebar
awsome, almost didnt make the crux move till i found a wee kneebar
Alasdair Fulton 31 May, 2016 AltLd O/S Awesome! After spending the day shivering in a gale round at Binnagapple, it was quite a contrast to be baking in the evening sun. Led P1. Now nicely chalked for the folks at the meet.
with GraMc
Awesome! After spending the day shivering in a gale round at Binnagapple, it was quite a contrast to be baking in the evening sun. Led P1. Now nicely chalked for the folks at the meet.
with GraMc
Hidden 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd
mcgovern 3 Sep, 2015 AltLd DEADLY
DEADLY
Hidden 15 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Andy Moles 16 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with burto
with burto
burto 16 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with moleo
with moleo
Ed Booth 15 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S P1 only. Really good
P1 only. Really good
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Duncan Campbell 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitch 1. Nearly fell off the hard crux sequence. Was a bit gripped getting to tat in roof as the peg below is a bit dodge and I found the moves weird. Top pitch great too.
with Anna G
Led pitch 1. Nearly fell off the hard crux sequence. Was a bit gripped getting to tat in roof as the peg below is a bit dodge and I found the moves weird. Top pitch great too.
with Anna G
Misha 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with eszter
with eszter
Hidden 15 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Adam Booth 15 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S P1 into 'Above and Beyond'. Amazing pitch.
P1 into 'Above and Beyond'. Amazing pitch.
nathanlee 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S P1. Fantastic roof crux and odd moves to get to the tat.
with goli
P1. Fantastic roof crux and odd moves to get to the tat.
with goli
Tom Livingstone 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S P1
P1
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 14 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Truly classic, the best E5 I've done here so far (granted its only Day 2)
with Alex Haslehurst
Truly classic, the best E5 I've done here so far (granted its only Day 2)
with Alex Haslehurst
Ramon Marin 10 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead p2
with dave pickford
Lead p2
with dave pickford
HeatherF 7 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead top pitch
with Will Sim, Tom Grant
Lead top pitch
with Will Sim, Tom Grant
bigie bob ?Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12 Oct, 2014 2nd dog
Hidden 13 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
morganator 30 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Tough crux on first pitch- not my style but super fun climbing
with soph
Tough crux on first pitch- not my style but super fun climbing
with soph
soph 30 May, 2014 Lead rpt
KKilroy 7 Aug, 2013 Lead β Amazing route. Both pitches are superb and varied.
with geoff
Amazing route. Both pitches are superb and varied.
with geoff
ali_robb 12 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S one long pitch bottom to top. first lead of the season nae worries
one long pitch bottom to top. first lead of the season nae worries
Ri 17 Jun, 2013 Lead rpt
S Smith 3 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
brianhall16 ??, 2013 Lead O/S
dan gibson 12 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S great route, grim hanging belay, tricky pitch 2
great route, grim hanging belay, tricky pitch 2
Hidden 11 Jun, 2012 2nd O/S
soph 3 Jun, 2012 2nd
steve_yo 3 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S one pitch, awesome
with soph
one pitch, awesome
with soph
Greg Boswell 27 May, 2012 Lead O/S
with mgeek
with mgeek
mgeek 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with greg boswell
with greg boswell
Hidden 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
paulmallee 26 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe 7 Jun, 2010 AltLd rpt Karin led the main pitch this time.
with karin
Karin led the main pitch this time.
with karin
JM 31 May, 2010 Lead O/S Lead first pitch.
with Danny O'Neil
Lead first pitch.
with Danny O'Neil
Luke Brooks 6 May, 2010 Lead
with Chris Guest
with Chris Guest
Ri ?Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Led both pitches, bit of a battle on the second.
with Anja Jones
Led both pitches, bit of a battle on the second.
with Anja Jones
Hidden 28 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 14 Jun, 2008 2nd
dannyboy83 ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S Stunning route!
with Eddie Barbour
Stunning route!
with Eddie Barbour
Tom Briggs 30 May, 2006 Lead O/S
with Aide Jebb
with Aide Jebb
Nick Wallis ?May, 2006 AltLd O/S 2nd pitch
with Stan
2nd pitch
with Stan
tuftynick ?May, 2006 Lead O/S
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?May, 2006 AltLd
Steve Crowe 17 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S both led. also with Eddie Cooper
with Dave Birkett
both led. also with Eddie Cooper
with Dave Birkett
Hidden 13 Jul, 2003 AltLd
Steve Clegg 15 Jul, 1984 Lead
with Gough
with Gough
keefe ??, 1984 -
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set