UKC Logbook - 'Dark Forces'

85m, 3 pitches. About 35m right of the Fang there is a black towering groove with huge vegetated grooves on either side, the right-hand one capped by a triangular overhang. This very fine route takes the impressive central black groove.
1) 37m (6a). Climb the corner (possible stance at 12m) to a difficult bulge at 30m. Continue past a small overhang to a stance at a flake below the obvious black triangular overhang.
2) 30m (5c). Bridge around the overhang and jam the magnificent corner crack to the final roof. Follow the crack out left round the overhang onto the head wall to a belay in a sling on a large spike.
3) 18m (4c). Hand traverse left to a short groove which gives access to flakes leading up left to the top.

A Strapcans, G Jenkins, G Desroy 28/Aug/1979.

Ticklists

FAIRHEAD 2021 , FH 2022 , Ireland 2022 , FH 2023 , Fairhead 2024

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
Dan_Shaff	5 Sep, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Really great route with very contrasting pitches! We spent a bit of time trying to find a good place to ab off. Some people told us to ab at the Bealach Rúnda ab in but it would probably take a while to walk along the base of the cliff to the start. We ended up abing off a boulder west of the Fang, between the Fang and Dark Forces. After you ab, Dark Forces will be on your right as you face the cliff.
Show beta βeta: Really great route with very contrasting pitches! We spent a bit of time trying to find a good place to ab off. Some people told us to ab at the Bealach Rúnda ab in but it would probably take a while to walk along the base of the cliff to the start. We ended up abing off a boulder west of the Fang, between the Fang and Dark Forces. After you ab, Dark Forces will be on your right as you face the cliff.