UKC

91m, 3 pitches. Blockbuster *** 91m E2 (5c, 4c, 5b)
A good route with an impressive final crack. The headwall on the left of the high prow is split by a leftward-trending crack. The route takes the crack and a series of grooves below. Below the crack at 30m height there is a rightward-facing corner with an inviting wide crack under it. Start at the first crack to the right of the wide crack.
1) 23m (5c). Climb the hand crack with some tricky moves at half height.
2) 33m (4c). Climb the corner above to an overlap at the start of the leftward-facing grooves. Climb this for about 10m and step left onto the ledge.
3) 35m (5b). Step back right into the groove. Climb this until it steepens and when about 5m below the overhang use small holds to swing steeply around the corner to the right, and a good spike. Several steep moves lead to the base of the slanting crack which is followed to the top.

R Lawson, T. Snaith. 30/May/1983

Ticklists: Ireland 3 Star E1-E2.


ClimberDateStyle
TomRiddelsdell 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Cracking route even though it was sopping wet. P1 is glorious hand jamming. Lead p2 which I found harder that p1 due to the slime. P3 is an absolute belta. Great lead by Shano in the rain!

islandlynx 03/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1 and 3. Not the most successful first day of our trip. We had some serious safety issues with our ab rope (sheath bunching), I got stuck 10m off the ground for awhile. Pitch 1 was great, pitch 2 was really green and gross. Pitch 3 was tough especially in the rain. Found some wild raspberries near the bottom though.

brian watson 12/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

P3, belting route! better as 3 pitches particularly for 2nd on first pitch. P3 is fantastic!

with Ed Babs
Ed Babs 12/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

P1&2 run together. Not a great idea as P1 hard right off the ground. P3 is a gem.

LDudill 10/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Need to refine jamming skills, I took first pitch, sustained jamming, ended up falling / resting just after harder bit, missed the big hold to palm off out right ! Aided rest as I couldn't be arsed! Seconded tom clean on p2 and 3. P2 very green, especially in upper groove, would be nice climbing if clean! Start of 3rd pitch also very green but was cleaner when it got steeper. P3 was great climbing though, really good moves out right on arête and luckily holds and good gear are there when u get around! Then some Jug pulling and crack climbing with jugs and decent rest every few moves! Probably best pitch we did in fairhead on the trip!

with Tom nicholls
Martin Dunne 03/Jun/17 Lead rpt

Led all the pitches. Needed a nap afterwards. Bushwhacked to the bottom and beat the rain by 5 minutes at the top. Psyched!

with Luke Mc
nepsoi999 02/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Did the shitty green 4c pitch climbing as a 3. First pitch though is hard and last pitch amazing!

Hidden 02/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2017 -
mcgovern 30/Sep/16 AltLd

Wow! The top pitch is one of the best around!

with TK
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Jun/16 AltLd rpt
Neil McA 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with paul innes
Paul Collins 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1 and 3, amazing route, best E2 I've climbed at Fair Head!

with Martin
wi11 04/Jun/16 AltLd O/S
with Georgia, Mike Goldthorp
Hidden 04/Jun/16 AltLd
Martin Dunne ?/Jun/16 AltLd dog

Great climb, sustained first pitch (many many falls), nearly fell off the belay ledge on the second pitch, amazing exposure and moves up the third pitch!

Hidden 04/Oct/15 AltLd rpt
GOS 04/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

GC p1 (sustained) p3 (one very hard traverse swing) GOS p2 (not bad but groove overgrown, about VS?)

kdo 25/Jul/15 AltLd dog

Jon climbed the first pitch clean, I took a rest while learning to jam. I climbed p2 and P3. P3 was tough and I fell/rested twice, great climbing excellent learning on cracks

with Jon Smith
Hidden 09/Jun/15 AltLd
Dizz 09/Jun/15 2nd
with Jan
Hidden ??/2015 -
KKilroy 21/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Amazing. First pitch is sustained e2 5b. Second is a good technical vs groove. Top pitch is just amazing.

with j parr, Eamon Quinn
Hidden 21/Apr/11 AltLd β
Hidden ??/2011 -
Nigel Coe 12/Jun/08 AltLd

I had 3 falls.

with Amnon
Nick Wallis ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
with Stan
keefe 08/Apr/84 -
15 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set