UKC

200m. FA. Miss C. Bouis, X. Bouis, A. Bourillon, J. Lods, 1974.

The route starts under the roof, on the right. Follow the ledges, trending leftwards, with the occasional step (IV/IV+). On reaching a flake, climb this until you can again move left. You can belay here on pitons, or continue across an airy step (III+) to a bolted belay (less then 10m). The route up to here has regular pitons.

From the bolted belay, climb up (steep IV/IV+) to the first bolt, then make a step right onto a grassy ledge which leads to the base of the corner (piton). Follow the corner up, easily at first, then steadily at IV, to the top (circa 150m). Occasional piton.

Descend via the South arête for a satisfying traverse, or abseil the sport route (W face)

One 50m rope will suffice to abseil the hardest sections on the normal route descent. If abseiling the W face, 2x 50m ropes may be needed (can someone confirm?). Once the corner is reached, long pitches can be run together. Below this some shorter pitches may make sense to reduce drag. Red/gold cams, and slings are particularly useful, and a set of nuts may be welcome.

Topos available in refuge du Pavé, and the Guardian is very kind and helpful.

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Route of Interest
Pilier Paquet

Grade: D- ***
(Le Rateau)

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