Rockfax Description
145m. A good alternative if you find Ex-Libris busy. It follows the other large corner system and also requires a trad rack but has bolted belays. The top pitch is particularly good (a rare crack pitch in the Aiguilles Rouges) and can be combined with the lower part of Ex-Libris to good effect. Beware of other parties knocking rocks off the traverse of Frison-Roche down the lower part of the route.
1) 6a, 40m. Climb the large corner to a belay on the right.
2) 6a+, 40m. Keep following the corner. Beware of loose rock.
3) 5b, 25m. Follow the bolts to the large ledge and then traverse left until below the large crack system to the right of the Frison-Roche corner.
4) 6b, 30m. Climb the fantastic crack above, first finger sized then hands. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
New route in the big corner to the right of Ex-Libris. 4 pitches 6a, 6a+, 5b, 6b+. Top pitch would probably make a good alternative finish to Ex-Libris.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| rattusrattus | 20 Jun, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: First two pitches are pretty loose but ate up gear. Third pitch is a bit of a waste of time and going left up the gully is more efficient and just skips one 5a move off the belay. Final crack feels long after the pitches before so doubles of hand and up sized cams would make it feel a bit nicer. Slightly loose too, but not as bad. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: First two pitches are pretty loose but ate up gear. Third pitch is a bit of a waste of time and going left up the gully is more efficient and just skips one 5a move off the belay. Final crack feels long after the pitches before so doubles of hand and up sized cams would make it feel a bit nicer. Slightly loose too, but not as bad. |
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| clipstick | 15 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Take a number 4 camalot (big silver) for the 6b+ crack. Wear a helmet! All the parties on frison-roche tend to knock down rocks on to the route, and any party above you. Great climbing, just a little bit loose ... | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Take a number 4 camalot (big silver) for the 6b+ crack. Wear a helmet! All the parties on frison-roche tend to knock down rocks on to the route, and any party above you. Great climbing, just a little bit loose ... |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Aiguilles Rouges
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Gully in between Vogler and Perroux Profit
Grade: TD+ ***
(Aiguille du Midi)