UKC

400m, 12 pitches. Marvellous line up to summit number 3, with continuously interesting climbing and compact sculpted rock. Belays 1-6 are bolted. Several bolts in the pitches. Take cams up to 1 or 2 and a few wires. Escape options at the end of P4 and P7.
Climbs up the left hand side of the big west face. Gets un pretty late (around noon late August - and even then some upper pitches are round a corner in the shade). Starts up crack to the left very light coloured slab area. Cairn. Bolt visible.
P1 4c, 40m
P2 4c, 40m
P3 4c, 45m
P4 4c, 45m (no bolts)
P5 5a, 30m
P6 4b, 50m
P7 5b, 50m
P8 5c, 45m
P9 - P12 at 4b-4c. Follow the arete passing gendarmes mostly to the right. No bolts.
rom summit 3 descend south to the breche between summit 2 & 3 then descend the obvious descent couloir about 100m, going left at its base. Look out for cairns on the left to find abseil point on slings. Can do one 50m ab, but recommended doing 2-3 little ones as it's easy to get rope stuck otherwise. From the base of abseils wander off left (looking out) to descend towards the combe de la Cougourde and the path back to refuge.

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Route of Interest
Éperon Ouest

Grade: D+ ***
(Cayre de la Madone)

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