UKC

20m. The leftmost thin crack, 6 or 7 meters to the left of Kangaroo Crack. Start a meter or so left of the crack by stepping off a boulder. Climb straight up the wall and make a tricky move to match a large but slightly disappointing hold. From here make harder moves up using crimpy face holds for your left hand and the near side of the crack to lay-off with your right, before a crux move to reach and match a broken hold below a reddish scar (good Camalot 0.4 in the crack right of here and a rock 3/4). Make a few move difficult moves up until things start to ease. Where the crack thins out, pull right to a hidden jug behind a block, then follow the crack back diagonally leftwards again. At the top either stay left and climb up (easy-ish but poor rock) or (better) step right and pull around the hanging nose to join the very top of Kangaroo Crack.

FA. Luke Holmes, Colin Tambling 14/Sep/2019.

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Route of Interest
Kellanesis

Grade: E6 6c ***
(Kellan Head)

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