97m.
Start at the thin cracks just left of Heart and Soul.
1. 6a. Climb the left hand crack/groove to the overhang (character building), an involuntary rest taken below the horizontal crack at the overhang. At the overhang step right into the right hand groove. Follow this until it becomes thin and move right onto a ledge, then up for a few moves and back left into the groove. Finish up a short slab and belay below the bulge.
The belay is a bit sketchy - a spike on the right and a placement for a small grey BD cam high above that plus a large nut and a red BD cam on the left.
2. 6a. Move up left to the break in the bulge and climb the crack to the small ledge below the groove. Arrange gear - green BD cam under the small overlap on the right. Climb the groove, (crux, small gear) and then, more easily, continue up the slab above to belay at the big flake of Morphine and Chocolate and The Artful Dodger.
3. 5c. Finish up Morphine and Chocolate
1. 6a. Climb the left hand crack/groove to the overhang (character building), an involuntary rest taken below the horizontal crack at the overhang. At the overhang step right into the right hand groove. Follow this until it becomes thin and move right onto a ledge, then up for a few moves and back left into the groove. Finish up a short slab and belay below the bulge.
The belay is a bit sketchy - a spike on the right and a placement for a small grey BD cam high above that plus a large nut and a red BD cam on the left.
2. 6a. Move up left to the break in the bulge and climb the crack to the small ledge below the groove. Arrange gear - green BD cam under the small overlap on the right. Climb the groove, (crux, small gear) and then, more easily, continue up the slab above to belay at the big flake of Morphine and Chocolate and The Artful Dodger.
3. 5c. Finish up Morphine and Chocolate
C Sheridan, C Torrans 19/Sep/2019.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EoghanCun | 13 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Really worthwhile but a little dirty. The belay at the top of P1 is sketchy (as described in the route description). If you're missing any of the required gear and you've accessed the route from the Blockbuster ab in, it's possible to back up the belay with the ab line. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Really worthwhile but a little dirty. The belay at the top of P1 is sketchy (as described in the route description). If you're missing any of the required gear and you've accessed the route from the Blockbuster ab in, it's possible to back up the belay with the ab line. |
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Route of Interest
Hallowe'en Arete
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Fair Head)