Rockfax Description
The slabs and cracks up the left arete. With the exception of P1, all belays are bolted. No pitch grades are known.
1) 30m. Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof.
2) 25m. Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge.
3) 50m. Traverse right then over a bulge, following the crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to bolt belay on a small ledge.
4) 50m. Easier climbing straight up then right out onto an arete then up to the next large ledge bolted belay.
5) 30m. Follow cracks and slabs up slightly right to a belay.
Descent - The route can be abseiled with 2 x 60m ropes. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A line tackling slabs and cracks up the left arete. With the exception of P1, all belays are bolted. The route can be rapped with 2 x 60m ropes
1) Climb the crack system on the arete to a large slanting ledge under the roof. 30m
2) Pull up over the roof, following the crack until it runs out. Traverse right 2m then up a short slab on crimps to a double bolt belay on another large ledge. 25m
3) Traverse right then over a bulge, following the crack until it disappears. From here, continue up 5m of slab to the next crack system which leads to another bolted belay on a small ledge. 50m
4) Easier climbing straight up then right out onto arete & up to the next large ledge & bolted belay. 50m
5) Follow cracks and slabs up and slightly right to bolted belay at a small stance. 30m
Vegard With Stennes, Charlie Long, Philip Curry 03/Oct/2019.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bsmithprice | 13 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route worth seeking out Some loose rock but nothing horrendous. Pitch 1 is the least obvious, the others are more straight forward. This is a more detailed description for pitch 1, it may not be what the first ascentionist Climb/intended but it worked for us and matched the grade of N6-. start in the corner beneath an overhang and the arête, head up this corner, heading slightly left into another corner beneath a moss/tree covered ledge. make moves up this corner and then right to then gain the face above the arête. Head up a series of short walls between bushy ledges towards a leftwards slanting overhang/crack. Climb good holds in this overhanging corner to then mantle onto the belay. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Good route worth seeking out Some loose rock but nothing horrendous. Pitch 1 is the least obvious, the others are more straight forward. This is a more detailed description for pitch 1, it may not be what the first ascentionist Climb/intended but it worked for us and matched the grade of N6-. start in the corner beneath an overhang and the arête, head up this corner, heading slightly left into another corner beneath a moss/tree covered ledge. make moves up this corner and then right to then gain the face above the arête. Head up a series of short walls between bushy ledges towards a leftwards slanting overhang/crack. Climb good holds in this overhanging corner to then mantle onto the belay. |
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Guidebooks for Rorvika
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Gamle Rev
Grade: n6 ***
(Gandalf)