300m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
1) 5c, 2) 6a, 3) 6a, 4) 5c, 5) 5a, 6) 5c, 7) 6a+, 8) 6c+, 9) 5c,
10) A0/6a (7c), 11) 6a. Perhaps the archetypical Verdon experience, long and committing, on superb rock and with breathtaking positions. The bottom four pitches are often avoided by starting from the Jardin des Ecureuils at the base of the Dalles Grises abseils. If starting from the bottom use the Ticket Danger abseils to reach the foot of Gwendal then walk 80m to the right to locate the start at a pillar under the centre of an arching roof. The first four pitches DO NOT appear on the topo, they feature old bolts and some traversing and feel hard for the grade. The 6c+ pitch stops a few folks and the 10th pitch is hard 7c if done free, though it can be easily aided. The final 'easy' pitch has spaced gear and has caused a few wobblers over the years! © Rockfax

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
James 1 19 Apr AltLd dog Fell off the 6C+, aided 7c. Incredible line.
with Rory , Dan
Fell off the 6C+, aided 7c. Incredible line.
with Rory , Dan
Hidden 18 Apr AltLd
Dohnny_Jawes 18 Apr AltLd G/U From Jardin des Écreuils. Lead odd pitches. Not even slightly ashamed about pulling on gear for a large part of the nails 6c+ pitch. A mad position to be in on the wall and the howling wind whipping up the ropes on the belays into everything and anything it could snag on added just a little extra excitment... as if it wasn't wild enough... Mike was an absolute beast as usual.
From Jardin des Écreuils. Lead odd pitches. Not even slightly ashamed about pulling on gear for a large part of the nails 6c+ pitch. A mad position to be in on the wall and the howling wind whipping up the ropes on the belays into everything and anything it could snag on added just a little extra excitment... as if it wasn't wild enough... Mike was an absolute beast as usual.
milena ?Apr AltLd
harry_lewis ?Apr AltLd O/S Aided the hard pitch after a token go. Felt like a shame as it looks really good. Onsighted the rest
with milena
Aided the hard pitch after a token go. Felt like a shame as it looks really good. Onsighted the rest
with milena
Hidden ?Jun, 2018 AltLd
seanhendo123 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd dog All clean other than the crux 6c+ which felt nails! Amazing route with amazing positions. Lead odd pitches
with Tim
All clean other than the crux 6c+ which felt nails! Amazing route with amazing positions. Lead odd pitches
with Tim
Hidden 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd
Hidden ?Oct, 2017 TR
Hidden ?Oct, 2017 Lead
Graham Atkins ?Sep, 2017 AltLd With Rob S who freed the 7c pitch (aid for me). A wild first day in the Verdon and a classic sandbag. Sooo much air under your feet!
With Rob S who freed the 7c pitch (aid for me). A wild first day in the Verdon and a classic sandbag. Sooo much air under your feet!
alpinist63 29 Oct, 2016 AltLd
stuart34 16 Oct, 2014 AltLd dog fell seconding the 6c pitch, right at the top. will have to go back - again.... and probably again after that
with Mick
fell seconding the 6c pitch, right at the top. will have to go back - again.... and probably again after that
with Mick
Uisdean hawthorn 1 Aug, 2014 AltLd dog
Hidden 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Uisdean hawthorn 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd
shafiq lalloo 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S started from Pt. 4, the 6c+ pt. was bloody nails! aided the 7b+ what a nice glory pitch to the top!
started from Pt. 4, the 6c+ pt. was bloody nails! aided the 7b+ what a nice glory pitch to the top!
jacobjacob 19 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S From the jardin, finished up Chtulla.
From the jardin, finished up Chtulla.
Graham Baxter 18 May, 2014 2nd O/S First 4 pitches up to the terrace. Pitch 3 hard for the grade.
with Alan Carne
First 4 pitches up to the terrace. Pitch 3 hard for the grade.
with Alan Carne
Andy Moles 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd From the Jardin des Écreuils. Aided the hard pitch, obvs. 6c+ pitch is nails.
with ferdia
From the Jardin des Écreuils. Aided the hard pitch, obvs. 6c+ pitch is nails.
with ferdia
ferdia 18 Apr, 2014 AltLd took a lob from the second crux of the main 6c+ pitch. pleased to get the first. such hard climbing but excellent. aided the 7b+ pitch.
took a lob from the second crux of the main 6c+ pitch. pleased to get the first. such hard climbing but excellent. aided the 7b+ pitch.
sarpedon 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd dnf Climbed the first 5 pitches then changed routes because of the long queue. I will be back for it.
with Roger Kirke
Climbed the first 5 pitches then changed routes because of the long queue. I will be back for it.
with Roger Kirke
RKirke ?Apr, 2014 AltLd dnf Did the first 5 pitches but moved to a different route to avoid climber traffic
Did the first 5 pitches but moved to a different route to avoid climber traffic
i_a_coops ??, 2014 Lead O/S Hard! Aided the bolt ladder as I couldn't pull on.
Hard! Aided the bolt ladder as I couldn't pull on.
KatDay 17 Oct, 2013 AltLd
with UnkArl
with UnkArl
UnkArl 17 Oct, 2013 AltLd dnf From the very bottom of the gorge. First 4 pitches were much harder than the grades given (particularly P3+4). At the Jadins we bailed onto Les Dalles Grises (which we jogged up in 2hours!). Took us 4 hours to get up the first 4 pitches... Too hot, too hard. P1 - Kat P2,3,4 - Me (dogged P3) Psyched to go back and try from the Jardins though - glutton for punishment!
with KatDay
From the very bottom of the gorge. First 4 pitches were much harder than the grades given (particularly P3+4). At the Jadins we bailed onto Les Dalles Grises (which we jogged up in 2hours!). Took us 4 hours to get up the first 4 pitches... Too hot, too hard. P1 - Kat P2,3,4 - Me (dogged P3) Psyched to go back and try from the Jardins though - glutton for punishment!
with KatDay
La Mont 15 Oct, 2013 AltLd β Aid the hard pitch
with feilx
Aid the hard pitch
with feilx
feilx 15 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Moved together on 1st 7 pitches, aided the 7b+ pitch (in the rain)
with La Mont
Moved together on 1st 7 pitches, aided the 7b+ pitch (in the rain)
with La Mont
stuart34 13 Oct, 2013 AltLd dog Managed to get through the 6c+ but fluffed the pitch higher up. Belay in wrong place, ran out of draws and couldn't move for drag. Pulled on draws through the 7c also
with Kim Ladiges
Managed to get through the 6c+ but fluffed the pitch higher up. Belay in wrong place, ran out of draws and couldn't move for drag. Pulled on draws through the 7c also
with Kim Ladiges
Rachel Slater 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Odd pitches. Nice route.
Odd pitches. Nice route.
Tom Livingstone 12 Oct, 2013 AltLd O/S Led even pitches, including the 6c+ crux. Amazing route! Aided the 7c (obviously).
Led even pitches, including the 6c+ crux. Amazing route! Aided the 7c (obviously).
ambrooker 19 Sep, 2013 2nd dog Climbed scary pitches from bottom of the gorge to the Jardin, then bailed onto Dalles Grises as it was too hot.
Climbed scary pitches from bottom of the gorge to the Jardin, then bailed onto Dalles Grises as it was too hot.
chiverstom 19 Sep, 2013 Lead RP Bottom four pitches and then bailed due to heat. First few pitches are on very old bolts at times and the third and fourth pitches make an exciting rising traverse
Bottom four pitches and then bailed due to heat. First few pitches are on very old bolts at times and the third and fourth pitches make an exciting rising traverse
Toby Dunn ?Sep, 2013 AltLd
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
oliver.ghill91 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Aided 7c pitch
Aided 7c pitch
Patrick Hill 6 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Aided 7c pitch, clean every other pitch
with Derek, oliver.ghill91
Aided 7c pitch, clean every other pitch
with Derek, oliver.ghill91
dohart 10 May, 2013 2nd dnf amazing hanging belay. did last pitch only.
with alan carne
amazing hanging belay. did last pitch only.
with alan carne
Hidden ?Oct, 2012 AltLd G/U
centurion05 ?May, 2012 AltLd Aided 7c pitch, lead 6c+
with Calum
Aided 7c pitch, lead 6c+
with Calum
HeatherF 7 Sep, 2011 AltLd dog Possibly the hardest 6c+ pitch ever! fell off sooo many times, but really nice climbing, on really nice rock!
with Jonny Baker
Possibly the hardest 6c+ pitch ever! fell off sooo many times, but really nice climbing, on really nice rock!
with Jonny Baker
Hidden ?Apr, 2011 -
daviesxxx ??, 2011 -
Morgan Woods 27 Jun, 2007 AltLd Abbed in to terrace. Had a fall on the 6c+ pitch then we both aided the short section of 7b+
with Alan Carney
Abbed in to terrace. Had a fall on the 6c+ pitch then we both aided the short section of 7b+
with Alan Carney
Helge Øystein Maakestad ??, 2001 Lead rpt Most exposed 6c+ in France.
Most exposed 6c+ in France.
K1 ??, 1998 -
Nick_Scots 12 Sep, 1992 -
Duncan I ?Jun, 1991 -
with Mike Long
with Mike Long
AlexRenshaw 17 Apr, 1991 Lead Aided the hardest bit
with Simon Donowho
Aided the hardest bit
with Simon Donowho
daviesxxx ??, 1990 Lead dog lead top 5 pitches. used aid. numerous falls
lead top 5 pitches. used aid. numerous falls
Helge Øystein Maakestad ?Jun, 1987 Lead We aided the 7b+/7c pitch.
We aided the 7b+/7c pitch.
andy gittins ??, 1986 -
Hidden 9 Sep, 1985 AltLd O/S
Dave Turnbull ?Aug, 1984 AltLd
Hidden ?May, 1983 AltLd dnf
Neil McA 11 Sep, 1982 AltLd Fantastic positions and climbing. Exhausted after 8 days on so frigged it a bit.
with Steve W
Fantastic positions and climbing. Exhausted after 8 days on so frigged it a bit.
with Steve W
Hidden 27 Aug, 1982 -
Hidden 13 Aug, 1982 AltLd
Hidden 18 Aug, 1981 AltLd
Mark Kemball ?Sep, 1980 AltLd The complete route from the base of the gorge, aid used on top pitches.
The complete route from the base of the gorge, aid used on top pitches.
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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set