10 pitches. A long line (of 10 pitches) up the right hand side of the pillar forming the west wide of the lower gorge, facing El Recodo. Gain the base from abseiling down by Acuario and scramble accross. The first and second roof pitch can be linked (7a), but is not recommended. The first two bolts of pitch 5 (6c+) can be clipped from the anchor. A couple of long slings are handy for making the rope run well on the scramble pitches (8 & 10). Pitch 6 requires some small wires for protection. From the top, walk off diagonally, heading for Cots Medios. Although only graded Fr6b+, pitch 7 is perhaps the most challenging. More info and pictures from the route can be found here: https://compareoutdoorgear.com/climbing-zeppelin/

Ticklists: El Chorro multipitch, El Chorro: Best Routes (6a-6c+), Spain, Spring 2019.

James Mulhall 11/Jan AltLd

Incredible climbing. Seems like it has been re-bolted as there were non-rusty bolts on all the pitches except for a ridge or two and the last easy pitch. Brought a set of wires which was plenty. Managed to get the roof sequence clean after one fall thanks to a pigeon-shit jam letting me shake out at the end - no, seriously, there's pigeons nesting at the belay and its pretty gross. Found the crux pitch to be phenomenally harder with a small bag. French freed my way out of there after letting the tourists take pics of me falling 10 times in a row. Get on it.

with Ciaran Curran
alasdaircavaye 06/Apr/18 AltLd dnf

I found this quite challenging. Lead P1 but dogged p2 and heavily aided p4. We decided to leave it there. Not a fan of approach.

with Reuben Tinsdale, Tom Fearon
derekb 12/Mar/18 AltLd dnf

Bailed after the 6c pitch at the belay on the lip where the bolts changed from good staples to rusty bolts. Interestingly there were 2 Spanish guys above us bolting - would be good to know if they were replacing the bolts on the 6c+ pitch as I'd like to go back and complete this.

with Bart
Rachael Ellis 21/Feb/18 AltLd dog

Nearly got the 6C! At least it made it entertaining for the tourists.

with patrick hill
Patrick Hill 21/Feb/18 AltLd O/S
with Rach
Hannes B 15/Feb/18 Lead
with Riley Melbourne
Benne 08/Feb/18 Lead O/S

Awesome route! I climbed this route in February with a friend. The roof pitches are quite hard for their grade, especially the first pitch which is quite polished. We were able to haul up our bag, so the follower good climb without it. Pitch 7 was my favorite, nice technical moves. We took the train tunnels and abseiled from the bridge to get to the start of the route. I have written an article about the route with more details on access and pictures on my blog: https://compareoutdoorgear.com/climbing-zeppelin/

jobangles 30/Jan/18 AltLd dog
shafiq lalloo 30/Jan/18 AltLd


Paul Collins 22/Dec/17 AltLd
BrendanR 22/Dec/17 AltLd
Dogwood ?/Dec/17 AltLd dog
James Oswald 23/Nov/17 Lead O/S

Tough linking the two crux pitches together. Found the 2nd crux pitch desperate and hard to read. Great climbing.

with Ben Conway
smartydh9 01/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jan/17 AltLd O/S
samparsons 22/Jan/17 Lead O/S
mishabruml 21/Jan/17 Lead dnf

With tall Shaun. Ripped a full pad flapper on the roof pitch when my feet popped, started leaking a ton of blood, lowered to the belay, clipped in and blacked out for a bit. Big up Shaun who kept it together, stuck a Mars bar in my gob and got us both down safely.

Teappleby 13/Jan/17 AltLd dog

Fell on the crux pitch after seconding the roof with the bag clean. Abit annoying but still a good route. But contrived though? Would maybe be better if it went up the arété at what looked 6b ish that through the roof. Dunno just what we thought.

John Kettle 12/Jan/17 AltLd
Hugh Irving 12/Jan/17 AltLd G/U
CMoore 12/Jan/17 AltLd dog

Free except crux pitch where I pulled on one bolt above the chains to get off the belay/it's hard haha.

Lakesben 03/Jan/17 AltLd

Led P1,3,6,7,9. Christian did the two hard pitches. Easy access from the tunnels. Bolted throughout although a few medium-sized wires might be handy on P6, the 5+ pitch. The description saying P7 is the most challenging is bonkers. It's 6b+, well bolted, brilliant climbing and pretty straightforward at the grade. Easy walk down from the top back to the tunnels and return.

with Christian
kieranor ?/Jan/17 AltLd O/S

Incredible. Led pitch 4 and it was a thing of beauty. Campusing on huge jugs at 100m up ! Some of the slab pitches were amazing particularly pitch 9. I remember lots of laybacking on various pitches and had an epic going up the wrong line on the trad pitch (6 I think). Onsighted all my leads which I was very happy with and only fell once seconding the 6c+ pitch with a bag. Best feeling ever running up the final easy pitch

deklan ?/Jan/17 AltLd
alexanderforsyth 31/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Absolutely epic - aided through the 6c+ roof, but what an adventure!

madeleine 31/Dec/16 AltLd rpt

Bit of aid through the hard pitches. Brilliant way to finish off the year. Xander's 2nd multipitch - dealt with the exposure like a pro.

mzchambers 27/Dec/16 AltLd dog
Tomas P 08/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
tommccluskey 08/Dec/16 AltLd dog
with Tomas P
cjbaker 07/Dec/16 AltLd G/U
with Rick
1poundSOCKS 27/Jan/16 AltLd

Epic day, but what a route. The river swelled and cut off retreat. Had to frig the roof pitch (6c), holds were really greasy and polished. Got off route on the next pitch (6c+), make sure you traverse right after the steep initial wall. Pitch 7 (6b+) had a missing hanger on the crux, so I hung a wire on the bolt and backed it up with a blind wire placement above. And sore feet on the thin pitch 9 (6b) made it feel a lot harder.

Senna 07/Jan/16 AltLd dnf

Led the 5+, 6a+ and dogged the 6c pitch. Backed up as the wind was howling and I was battered!

josh Bamsey 06/Jan/16 AltLd dog

Everything is amazing! Except the cold and ridiculously polished 6c pitch. Did NOT enjoy this part! Pitches 6 and 7 are the best routes I have ever done! BEAUTIFUL climbing.

Dan724 22/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

Soloed pitch 1, simul climbed pitches 2,3,8 & 9. Led pitches 4 (6c),5 (6c+) and 7(6b+) Very polished and greasy through the overhang but brilliant climbing. The pitches after the overhang were also pretty spectacular and were harder than expected. A really adventurous feel with old pitons between bolted belays and acres of exposure.

with Soeren
funsized 28/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

A perfect end to 8 months in El Chorro!

slowmotion 28/Apr/15 AltLd

Lives up to the hype does old zeppelin. Although the caminito tourists are a bit off putting. Nice onsight for jonny p!

dprctr 11/Mar/15 AltLd dog

No wind on the gorge made this surprisingly hard. Some incredibly polished holds on both the 6c and 6c+ pitches. 6c+ pitch was hard to get established on from the cramped belay. Hard day out but a proper adventure. Great views and nice peace at the bottom of the gorge amongst the boulders.

shed_hed 11/Mar/15 AltLd dog

What a route and what a battle! Every pitch felt hard, starting with the second pitch - where are the footholds?! Nearly came off leading the 6c traverse pitch, the 6c+ pitch proved too much with the pack and baking in the sun still wearing a jumper and I fell off a few times, and nearly came off on the pitch after that. Was a furnace in the gorge today but was expecting it to be cold so took too many clothes and not enough water. Was absolutely exhausted and dehydrated by the top. Would not recommend trying to run the 6c and 6c+ pitches together, the rope drag would be terminal. Alternated leads, I led P2. Took around 8 and a half hours walking door to door from the Olive Branch.

with dprctr
madeleine ?/Jan/15 AltLd

Amazing day out! Epic top 6b pitch.

with Henry
MischaHY 25/Oct/14 Lead

What a brilliant, intense experience.

Michael Allday 17/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Apr/14 -
Wil Treasure 17/Apr/14 AltLd

Rusty bolts on the crux pitch. Great adventure.

Hidden 17/Apr/14 AltLd dog
papashango 21/Mar/14 AltLd RP

fell off roof, did it 2nd go.

Elliot Walker ?/Mar/14 AltLd RP
Ed Babs 28/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

P2, 4, 5, 6 (trad@HVS?), 7, 9 & 10. Superb. Railway approach. Abseiling off the walkway looks like a nightmare.

with Magnus
KKilroy 21/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. No need to carry any gear really...only the 6th pitch (5+) needs some care to locate the correct line of pegs, threads and the odd bolt. (Look right of the tree).Don't run pitches together. ..the drag is wild. U can easily walk down from the alcove in the tunnels to the base of the route.

with Eamon Quinn
Macleod 12/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome route. Got lost at the top of the 6c+ pitch and traded to the start of the 6b+ crack/groove.

with dominic
Hidden 06/Nov/13 AltLd dog
Hidden 06/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct/13 Lead O/S
cmoxon 12/May/13 AltLd dog

Absailed in from railway bridge. Did not seem to be any guards around but was a Sunday. Lovely Climb but harder pitches a bit out of my league. Andrew lead 4th, 5th and 7th pitches (the harder ones). I seconded these - dogged with aid. Dragged pack up the 4th pitch which made a big difference. Onsighted the other pitches though which are much easier. At the top of the 5th pitch there is a long traverse which is quite unprotected for the second and needs some care.

with Andrew Barnes
Hidden 06/Jan/13 AltLd
adam 24 ?/Jan/13 AltLd
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??/2013 -
Sut 28/Dec/12 -
Hidden 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Trevera 03/Feb/12 2nd
with nick sillem
Bargate_Champ 06/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
jgustafsson 29/Dec/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, thanks kev for a great day out. Strung together pitch 1&2, 4&5 and 6&7. The last 6b pitch possibly the most enjoyable of all. The 2 crux pitches should definitely be done in one if the seconding climber is comfortable.

with Kevster
Kevster 29/Dec/11 AltLd dog

The 6c+ pitch with a pack proved too much for the fingers! Great route though.

bigdrew 23/Dec/11 AltLd

Fell off 6c roof pitch

with liam
Hidden 23/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Dec/11 AltLd
Tom_Ball 01/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
Tom_Ball 01/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
chrism225 ?/Dec/11 AltLd
thomb ?/Dec/11 Lead dog

P5 not a lot of fun. Dogged after slicing my finger open. Amazing final pitches though, overall an awesome route.

with Sari
mwatson ?/Dec/11 AltLd O/S
chriscarroll 27/Apr/11 AltLd dog
Tom Livingstone 27/Apr/11 AltLd dog
Tommy Cole ?/Apr/11 AltLd dog

Hairyest climbing experience so far!

owain86 ?/Apr/11 Lead dog
quiffhanger ?/Mar/11 Lead dog
Chad123 17/Oct/10 AltLd

Bit of a long day out all in all, approach took ages as the abseils don't exist from Recondo and we had to ab of various single bolts and old trees - not recommended. The route has some great pitches in the top half and the start but the two hard pitches are either greasy/pumpy or on dodgy bolts so not as fun as the rest of the route. The 6b+ and 6b pitches at the top are the best by miles - don't go up the HVS groove - you miss the best pitch on the route! Why are the best bolts on the easiest pitches???

with Emily
jacobjlloyd 03/Jul/10 AltLd

Crux is the roof pitch, felt 6c+. Next pitch is only 6c. Useful advice: when belaying from the top of this pitch, hang down on a loop of rope or a 240 sling and you can see and communicate with your second. Useful, as there is plenty of rope drag. All the pitches are excellent in their own right. Really fantastic. Fell through the roof (one hard move to a smooth flat jug - reachy and powerful) but got back on, reversed and did the pitch clean. Contrary to the description, the 6b+ pitch felt fine, not hard for the grade, and it was raining while I led it. Technical and imaginative moves, but not hard.

dswansonlow 03/Jul/10 Lead RP
Phil Jennings 05/Apr/10 AltLd dog

tad cold lower section

BorisVBlade 03/Apr/10 AltLd RP

Inspiring Route. P1 4+ & P2 6a+ Lead O/S in one pitch, P3 5+ Second O/S, P4 6c Second with one rest before pulling onto the belay, P5 6c+ Second O/S, P6 5+ Lead O/S, P7 6b+ Lead O/S, P8 3 Lead O/S, P9 6b Second O/S, P10 Lead O/S.

with Ryan Pedrigi
Will Hunt 01/Apr/10 AltLd

Abbed in from railway bridge. Definitely safer than coming in from Recodo. 60m rope does it fine. P1 (4+) - SJ led. Up a right trending groove past older bolts to a belay next to a tree. P2 (6a+) - WH led. Climb a puzzling slab past very shiny new staple bolts and some suspect looking but surprisingly solid rock. P3 (5) - SJ led. Past more good staples trending right to a belay on the left of the orange slab below the roof. P4 (6c) - WH led. Climb the orange slab to a juggy break in the roof. Traverse right on steep ground until you can clip the next belay on the lip. Clipping the belay proves to be the crux of this pitch! Good staple bolts all the way. P5 (6c+) - SJ led. From the belay on the lip traverse difficultly left to a rusty bolt. From this climb steepy through the wall above on some good and some not so good holds past bolts of a similar age to the first. Difficulties ease substantially after the third bolt. Trending slightly left will require some wires and careful movement on suspect rock before coming back right to a double bolt belay (not as new as the other belays). With the heavy bag on I used the first three bolts as points of aid. P6 (VS) - WH led. Trend up and right across the slab via cracks and some aging fixed gear (threads and pegs). Aim for a pair of bolts higher up below a crack in an obvious groove. Past these step right to a cluster of older bolts to belay. P7 (HVS) - SJ led. Step down and left from the belay past a bolt and a peg to a newer looking bolt at the foot of the obvious groove. Layback up this groove on good trad gear to top out on a ridge and a double bolt belay. P8 (3) - WH led. Walk along the ridge with the odd move of climbing here and there past some intermittent bolts. Belay by a tree on a fresh double bolt belay (the same staples as on the lower pitches). P9 (6b) - WH led. Climb to the top of a pinnacle then continue up occasionally using the arete past excellent bolts. P10 - SJ led. Climb easily along the ridge past the occasional bolt at the harder steps and a few wires if needed to a double bolt belay on a terrace next to Sector Las Nubes. A 70m rope will do this fine.

with Sean_J
markalmack 25/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with gcap
Hidden 25/Feb/10 AltLd dog
Lawrie Brand 25/Jan/10 AltLd

Epic. Heavy rain started on pitch 7 and temp dropped about 15 degrees. Lots of aid, night climbing, shivering, swearing and general suffering ensued. Good fun - in retrospect..

with Gaz, Tom
richiebongo 19/Jan/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
Gazleah ?/Jan/10 Lead dog

Caught out by a wrong weather forecast, ended up leaving the wall at 10pm with a extremely bad description of the walk off from the rock fax book (says a scramble, its more like a severe with trad gear!) very cold walk home in hail at -6c

with lawrie brand, tom.ireson
tom.ireson ?/Jan/10 2nd
with Gazleah
jamiefoxen ?/Jan/10 AltLd dog

unbalevable weather, vortex winds in the gorge and snow. hands like meat chops.

with MonkeyDawson, bob foster
MonkeyDawson ?/Jan/10 AltLd
with Jamie, Bob Foster
tom.ireson ??/2010 Lead dog

Lawrie summed it right up in his comment! long and epic day, would be a brilliant route in the dry but made for a real test of grit when the hail started and even more so when it got dark! Be warned - you pull your rope down from the bridge and that's it you're in for the long haul. Also when you top out on the 6th pitch (6b+)(where we got hit with the first bit of hail), you end up on a nice ledge looking up the arete. Look over the other side and get an idea of the terrain you will be coming down in case you get caught out in the dark, you will be glad of it.

Hidden ?/Dec/09 AltLd
burto 05/Apr/09 AltLd dog
with mike
mikecopp 05/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Ian B
Shaw Brown 20/Mar/09 AltLd

Had to pull on the draw at the start of the 6c+ pitch, plus a rest. Best day trip yet in Spain.

with Simon Palmer
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Glyn 11/Dec/08 -

Awesome! Roof is very hard for 6c! Not the rest day I was hoping for!

Hidden ?/Dec/08 AltLd
metal arms 14/Nov/08 -
Brown 20/Dec/07 AltLd O/S
with Matt
Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
stuwelly85 ?/Apr/07 AltLd dog
with simonr
simonr ?/Apr/07 AltLd dog
mbutton ?/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Tris Fox
Smelly Fox 14/Oct/06 AltLd dog

Took a fall on the roof, then burned out on the head wall... much cursing! Found the ‘crux’ pitch 7 fine though... dont understand the fuss. Fantastic route!

with Mark Button
Hidden 11/Feb/05 AltLd
migs493 12/Dec/01 AltLd O/S
goi.ashmore 18/Oct/98 Lead O/S

Started with 1,5 hours of light left. Finished in the pitch black

with Roy Thomas
dan gibson ?/Apr/98 Lead O/S
Luis SD ??/1997 AltLd O/S
peterbull ??/1996 AltLd O/S
Mike_d78 15/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
ste_d 15/Nov/94 AltLd O/S
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??/1994 Lead O/S

Best the Swedes to it with an early start. Belting Route!

graham lawrie ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Rodger Palin
keefe 31/Dec/91 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
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High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Not Set