10 pitches. A long line (of 10 pitches) up the right hand side of the pillar forming the west wide of the lower gorge, facing El Recodo. Gain the base from abseiling down by Acuario and scramble accross. The first and second roof pitch can be linked (7a), but is not recommended. The first two bolts of pitch 5 (6c+) can be clipped from the anchor. A couple of long slings are handy for making the rope run well on the scramble pitches (8 & 10). Pitch 6 requires some small wires for protection. From the top, walk off diagonally, heading for Cots Medios. Although only graded Fr6b+, pitch 7 is perhaps the most challenging. More info and pictures from the route can be found here: https://compareoutdoorgear.com/climbing-zeppelin/

Ticklists

El Chorro multipitch, El Chorro: Best Routes (6a-6c+), Spain, Spring 2019

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
Quarryboy 27 Mar Lead rpt Happy to finally do all the pitches clean, felt a lot fitter on it this time compared to previously.
with Aaron Caldwell
Happy to finally do all the pitches clean, felt a lot fitter on it this time compared to previously.
with Aaron Caldwell
AaronBCaldwell 27 Mar AltLd What an amazing route, definitely a great end to a 3 month trip. Can’t think of a route I’ve been on with a better position. Epic!
What an amazing route, definitely a great end to a 3 month trip. Can’t think of a route I’ve been on with a better position. Epic!
MichealMurphy 5 Mar AltLd Incredible route in an amazing setting. Approach via train tracks. There is a path down and under the bridge. There is a rope and rungs to climb down at the left most bridge arch. The 6C pitch can be easily aided as it's a bolt ladder. The bolts on the 6C+ are close enough together also, get on it!
Incredible route in an amazing setting. Approach via train tracks. There is a path down and under the bridge. There is a rope and rungs to climb down at the left most bridge arch. The 6C pitch can be easily aided as it's a bolt ladder. The bolts on the 6C+ are close enough together also, get on it!
Hidden 16 Feb AltLd O/S
M_Robinson 16 Feb AltLd O/S Very cold in the wind and shade. The roof pitch, and the first moves of the following pitch were a step above the rest of the route, and not easy with cold fingers and shoulders!
Very cold in the wind and shade. The roof pitch, and the first moves of the following pitch were a step above the rest of the route, and not easy with cold fingers and shoulders!
James Mulhall 11 Jan AltLd Incredible climbing. Seems like it has been re-bolted as there were non-rusty bolts on all the pitches except for a ridge or two and the last easy pitch. Brought a set of wires which was plenty. Managed to get the roof sequence clean after one fall thanks to a pigeon-shit jam letting me shake out at the end - no, seriously, there's pigeons nesting at the belay and its pretty gross. Found the crux pitch to be phenomenally harder with a small bag. French freed my way out of there after letting the tourists take pics of me falling 10 times in a row. Get on it.
with Ciaran Curran
Incredible climbing. Seems like it has been re-bolted as there were non-rusty bolts on all the pitches except for a ridge or two and the last easy pitch. Brought a set of wires which was plenty. Managed to get the roof sequence clean after one fall thanks to a pigeon-shit jam letting me shake out at the end - no, seriously, there's pigeons nesting at the belay and its pretty gross. Found the crux pitch to be phenomenally harder with a small bag. French freed my way out of there after letting the tourists take pics of me falling 10 times in a row. Get on it.
with Ciaran Curran
Quarryboy 30 Nov, 2018 Lead dog At night, started at 10pm, finished at 6am, got lost trying to find the start of the route, went full covert getting on the train tracks.
with Kieran O Riordan
At night, started at 10pm, finished at 6am, got lost trying to find the start of the route, went full covert getting on the train tracks.
with Kieran O Riordan
alasdaircavaye 6 Apr, 2018 AltLd dnf I found this quite challenging. Lead P1 but dogged p2 and heavily aided p4. We decided to leave it there. Not a fan of approach.
with Reuben Tinsdale, Tom Fearon
I found this quite challenging. Lead P1 but dogged p2 and heavily aided p4. We decided to leave it there. Not a fan of approach.
with Reuben Tinsdale, Tom Fearon
derekb 12 Mar, 2018 AltLd dnf Bailed after the 6c pitch at the belay on the lip where the bolts changed from good staples to rusty bolts. Interestingly there were 2 Spanish guys above us bolting - would be good to know if they were replacing the bolts on the 6c+ pitch as I'd like to go back and complete this.
with Bart
Bailed after the 6c pitch at the belay on the lip where the bolts changed from good staples to rusty bolts. Interestingly there were 2 Spanish guys above us bolting - would be good to know if they were replacing the bolts on the 6c+ pitch as I'd like to go back and complete this.
with Bart
Rachael Ellis 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd dog Nearly got the 6C! At least it made it entertaining for the tourists.
with patrick hill
Nearly got the 6C! At least it made it entertaining for the tourists.
with patrick hill
Patrick Hill 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Rach
with Rach
Hannes B 15 Feb, 2018 Lead
with Riley Melbourne
with Riley Melbourne
Benne 8 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome route! I climbed this route in February with a friend. The roof pitches are quite hard for their grade, especially the first pitch which is quite polished. We were able to haul up our bag, so the follower good climb without it. Pitch 7 was my favorite, nice technical moves. We took the train tunnels and abseiled from the bridge to get to the start of the route. I have written an article about the route with more details on access and pictures on my blog: https://compareoutdoorgear.com/climbing-zeppelin/
Awesome route! I climbed this route in February with a friend. The roof pitches are quite hard for their grade, especially the first pitch which is quite polished. We were able to haul up our bag, so the follower good climb without it. Pitch 7 was my favorite, nice technical moves. We took the train tunnels and abseiled from the bridge to get to the start of the route. I have written an article about the route with more details on access and pictures on my blog: https://compareoutdoorgear.com/climbing-zeppelin/
jobangles 30 Jan, 2018 AltLd dog
shafiq lalloo 30 Jan, 2018 AltLd Adventure!
Adventure!
Paul Collins 22 Dec, 2017 AltLd
BrendanR 22 Dec, 2017 AltLd
Dogwood ?Dec, 2017 AltLd dog
James Oswald 23 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S Tough linking the two crux pitches together. Found the 2nd crux pitch desperate and hard to read. Great climbing.
with Ben Conway
Tough linking the two crux pitches together. Found the 2nd crux pitch desperate and hard to read. Great climbing.
with Ben Conway
smartydh9 1 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 30 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
samparsons 22 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
mishabruml 21 Jan, 2017 Lead dnf With tall Shaun. Ripped a full pad flapper on the roof pitch when my feet popped, started leaking a ton of blood, lowered to the belay, clipped in and blacked out for a bit. Big up Shaun who kept it together, stuck a Mars bar in my gob and got us both down safely.
With tall Shaun. Ripped a full pad flapper on the roof pitch when my feet popped, started leaking a ton of blood, lowered to the belay, clipped in and blacked out for a bit. Big up Shaun who kept it together, stuck a Mars bar in my gob and got us both down safely.
Teappleby 13 Jan, 2017 AltLd dog Fell on the crux pitch after seconding the roof with the bag clean. Abit annoying but still a good route. But contrived though? Would maybe be better if it went up the arété at what looked 6b ish that through the roof. Dunno just what we thought.
Fell on the crux pitch after seconding the roof with the bag clean. Abit annoying but still a good route. But contrived though? Would maybe be better if it went up the arété at what looked 6b ish that through the roof. Dunno just what we thought.
John Kettle 12 Jan, 2017 AltLd
Hugh Irving 12 Jan, 2017 AltLd G/U
CMoore 12 Jan, 2017 AltLd dog Free except crux pitch where I pulled on one bolt above the chains to get off the belay/it's hard haha.
Free except crux pitch where I pulled on one bolt above the chains to get off the belay/it's hard haha.
Lakesben 3 Jan, 2017 AltLd Led P1,3,6,7,9. Christian did the two hard pitches. Easy access from the tunnels. Bolted throughout although a few medium-sized wires might be handy on P6, the 5+ pitch. The description saying P7 is the most challenging is bonkers. It's 6b+, well bolted, brilliant climbing and pretty straightforward at the grade. Easy walk down from the top back to the tunnels and return.
with Christian
Led P1,3,6,7,9. Christian did the two hard pitches. Easy access from the tunnels. Bolted throughout although a few medium-sized wires might be handy on P6, the 5+ pitch. The description saying P7 is the most challenging is bonkers. It's 6b+, well bolted, brilliant climbing and pretty straightforward at the grade. Easy walk down from the top back to the tunnels and return.
with Christian
kieranor ?Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S Incredible. Led pitch 4 and it was a thing of beauty. Campusing on huge jugs at 100m up ! Some of the slab pitches were amazing particularly pitch 9. I remember lots of laybacking on various pitches and had an epic going up the wrong line on the trad pitch (6 I think). Onsighted all my leads which I was very happy with and only fell once seconding the 6c+ pitch with a bag. Best feeling ever running up the final easy pitch
Incredible. Led pitch 4 and it was a thing of beauty. Campusing on huge jugs at 100m up ! Some of the slab pitches were amazing particularly pitch 9. I remember lots of laybacking on various pitches and had an epic going up the wrong line on the trad pitch (6 I think). Onsighted all my leads which I was very happy with and only fell once seconding the 6c+ pitch with a bag. Best feeling ever running up the final easy pitch
deklan ?Jan, 2017 AltLd
alexanderforsyth 31 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S Absolutely epic - aided through the 6c+ roof, but what an adventure!
Absolutely epic - aided through the 6c+ roof, but what an adventure!
madeleine 31 Dec, 2016 AltLd rpt Bit of aid through the hard pitches. Brilliant way to finish off the year. Xander's 2nd multipitch - dealt with the exposure like a pro.
Bit of aid through the hard pitches. Brilliant way to finish off the year. Xander's 2nd multipitch - dealt with the exposure like a pro.
mzchambers 27 Dec, 2016 AltLd dog
Tomas P 8 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
tommccluskey 8 Dec, 2016 AltLd dog
with Tomas P
with Tomas P
cjbaker 7 Dec, 2016 AltLd G/U
with Rick
with Rick
1poundSOCKS 27 Jan, 2016 AltLd Epic day, but what a route. The river swelled and cut off retreat. Had to frig the roof pitch (6c), holds were really greasy and polished. Got off route on the next pitch (6c+), make sure you traverse right after the steep initial wall. Pitch 7 (6b+) had a missing hanger on the crux, so I hung a wire on the bolt and backed it up with a blind wire placement above. And sore feet on the thin pitch 9 (6b) made it feel a lot harder.
Epic day, but what a route. The river swelled and cut off retreat. Had to frig the roof pitch (6c), holds were really greasy and polished. Got off route on the next pitch (6c+), make sure you traverse right after the steep initial wall. Pitch 7 (6b+) had a missing hanger on the crux, so I hung a wire on the bolt and backed it up with a blind wire placement above. And sore feet on the thin pitch 9 (6b) made it feel a lot harder.
Senna 7 Jan, 2016 AltLd dnf Led the 5+, 6a+ and dogged the 6c pitch. Backed up as the wind was howling and I was battered!
Led the 5+, 6a+ and dogged the 6c pitch. Backed up as the wind was howling and I was battered!
josh Bamsey 6 Jan, 2016 AltLd dog Everything is amazing! Except the cold and ridiculously polished 6c pitch. Did NOT enjoy this part! Pitches 6 and 7 are the best routes I have ever done! BEAUTIFUL climbing.
Everything is amazing! Except the cold and ridiculously polished 6c pitch. Did NOT enjoy this part! Pitches 6 and 7 are the best routes I have ever done! BEAUTIFUL climbing.
Dan Hale 22 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Soloed pitch 1, simul climbed pitches 2,3,8 & 9. Led pitches 4 (6c),5 (6c+) and 7(6b+) Very polished and greasy through the overhang but brilliant climbing. The pitches after the overhang were also pretty spectacular and were harder than expected. A really adventurous feel with old pitons between bolted belays and acres of exposure.
with Soeren
Soloed pitch 1, simul climbed pitches 2,3,8 & 9. Led pitches 4 (6c),5 (6c+) and 7(6b+) Very polished and greasy through the overhang but brilliant climbing. The pitches after the overhang were also pretty spectacular and were harder than expected. A really adventurous feel with old pitons between bolted belays and acres of exposure.
with Soeren
funsized 28 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S A perfect end to 8 months in El Chorro!
A perfect end to 8 months in El Chorro!
slowmotion 28 Apr, 2015 AltLd Lives up to the hype does old zeppelin. Although the caminito tourists are a bit off putting. Nice onsight for jonny p!
Lives up to the hype does old zeppelin. Although the caminito tourists are a bit off putting. Nice onsight for jonny p!
dprctr 11 Mar, 2015 AltLd dog No wind on the gorge made this surprisingly hard. Some incredibly polished holds on both the 6c and 6c+ pitches. 6c+ pitch was hard to get established on from the cramped belay. Hard day out but a proper adventure. Great views and nice peace at the bottom of the gorge amongst the boulders.
No wind on the gorge made this surprisingly hard. Some incredibly polished holds on both the 6c and 6c+ pitches. 6c+ pitch was hard to get established on from the cramped belay. Hard day out but a proper adventure. Great views and nice peace at the bottom of the gorge amongst the boulders.
shed_hed 11 Mar, 2015 AltLd dog What a route and what a battle! Every pitch felt hard, starting with the second pitch - where are the footholds?! Nearly came off leading the 6c traverse pitch, the 6c+ pitch proved too much with the pack and baking in the sun still wearing a jumper and I fell off a few times, and nearly came off on the pitch after that. Was a furnace in the gorge today but was expecting it to be cold so took too many clothes and not enough water. Was absolutely exhausted and dehydrated by the top. Would not recommend trying to run the 6c and 6c+ pitches together, the rope drag would be terminal. Alternated leads, I led P2. Took around 8 and a half hours walking door to door from the Olive Branch.
with dprctr
What a route and what a battle! Every pitch felt hard, starting with the second pitch - where are the footholds?! Nearly came off leading the 6c traverse pitch, the 6c+ pitch proved too much with the pack and baking in the sun still wearing a jumper and I fell off a few times, and nearly came off on the pitch after that. Was a furnace in the gorge today but was expecting it to be cold so took too many clothes and not enough water. Was absolutely exhausted and dehydrated by the top. Would not recommend trying to run the 6c and 6c+ pitches together, the rope drag would be terminal. Alternated leads, I led P2. Took around 8 and a half hours walking door to door from the Olive Branch.
with dprctr
madeleine ?Jan, 2015 AltLd Amazing day out! Epic top 6b pitch.
with Henry
Amazing day out! Epic top 6b pitch.
with Henry
MischaHY 25 Oct, 2014 Lead What a brilliant, intense experience.
What a brilliant, intense experience.
Michael Allday 17 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Apr, 2014 -
Wil Treasure 17 Apr, 2014 AltLd Rusty bolts on the crux pitch. Great adventure.
Rusty bolts on the crux pitch. Great adventure.
Hidden 17 Apr, 2014 AltLd dog
papashango 21 Mar, 2014 AltLd RP fell off roof, did it 2nd go.
fell off roof, did it 2nd go.
Elliot Walker ?Mar, 2014 AltLd RP
Ed Babs 28 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S P2, 4, 5, 6 (trad@HVS?), 7, 9 & 10. Superb. Railway approach. Abseiling off the walkway looks like a nightmare.
with Magnus
P2, 4, 5, 6 (trad@HVS?), 7, 9 & 10. Superb. Railway approach. Abseiling off the walkway looks like a nightmare.
with Magnus
KKilroy 21 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Amazing route. No need to carry any gear really...only the 6th pitch (5+) needs some care to locate the correct line of pegs, threads and the odd bolt. (Look right of the tree).Don't run pitches together. ..the drag is wild. U can easily walk down from the alcove in the tunnels to the base of the route.
with Eamon Quinn
Amazing route. No need to carry any gear really...only the 6th pitch (5+) needs some care to locate the correct line of pegs, threads and the odd bolt. (Look right of the tree).Don't run pitches together. ..the drag is wild. U can easily walk down from the alcove in the tunnels to the base of the route.
with Eamon Quinn
Macleod 12 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S Awesome route. Got lost at the top of the 6c+ pitch and traded to the start of the 6b+ crack/groove.
with dominic
Awesome route. Got lost at the top of the 6c+ pitch and traded to the start of the 6b+ crack/groove.
with dominic
Hidden 6 Nov, 2013 AltLd dog
Hidden 6 Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
cmoxon 12 May, 2013 AltLd dog Absailed in from railway bridge. Did not seem to be any guards around but was a Sunday. Lovely Climb but harder pitches a bit out of my league. Andrew lead 4th, 5th and 7th pitches (the harder ones). I seconded these - dogged with aid. Dragged pack up the 4th pitch which made a big difference. Onsighted the other pitches though which are much easier. At the top of the 5th pitch there is a long traverse which is quite unprotected for the second and needs some care.
with Andrew Barnes
Absailed in from railway bridge. Did not seem to be any guards around but was a Sunday. Lovely Climb but harder pitches a bit out of my league. Andrew lead 4th, 5th and 7th pitches (the harder ones). I seconded these - dogged with aid. Dragged pack up the 4th pitch which made a big difference. Onsighted the other pitches though which are much easier. At the top of the 5th pitch there is a long traverse which is quite unprotected for the second and needs some care.
with Andrew Barnes
Hidden 6 Jan, 2013 AltLd
adam 24 ?Jan, 2013 AltLd
Charlie Zephyr Booth ??, 2013 -
Sut 28 Dec, 2012 -
Hidden 18 Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
Trevera 3 Feb, 2012 2nd
with nick sillem
with nick sillem
Bargate_Champ 6 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
jgustafsson 29 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S Awesome route, thanks kev for a great day out. Strung together pitch 1&2, 4&5 and 6&7. The last 6b pitch possibly the most enjoyable of all. The 2 crux pitches should definitely be done in one if the seconding climber is comfortable.
with Kevster
Awesome route, thanks kev for a great day out. Strung together pitch 1&2, 4&5 and 6&7. The last 6b pitch possibly the most enjoyable of all. The 2 crux pitches should definitely be done in one if the seconding climber is comfortable.
with Kevster
Kevster 29 Dec, 2011 AltLd dog The 6c+ pitch with a pack proved too much for the fingers! Great route though.
The 6c+ pitch with a pack proved too much for the fingers! Great route though.
bigdrew 23 Dec, 2011 AltLd Fell off 6c roof pitch
with liam
Fell off 6c roof pitch
with liam
Hidden 23 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22 Dec, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 1 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
chrism225 ?Dec, 2011 AltLd
thomb ?Dec, 2011 Lead dog P5 not a lot of fun. Dogged after slicing my finger open. Amazing final pitches though, overall an awesome route.
with Sari
P5 not a lot of fun. Dogged after slicing my finger open. Amazing final pitches though, overall an awesome route.
with Sari
mwatson ?Dec, 2011 AltLd O/S
chriscarroll 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd dog
Tom Livingstone 27 Apr, 2011 AltLd dog
Tommy Cole ?Apr, 2011 AltLd dog Hairyest climbing experience so far!
Hairyest climbing experience so far!
owain86 ?Apr, 2011 Lead dog
quiffhanger ?Mar, 2011 Lead dog
Chad123 17 Oct, 2010 AltLd Bit of a long day out all in all, approach took ages as the abseils don't exist from Recondo and we had to ab of various single bolts and old trees - not recommended. The route has some great pitches in the top half and the start but the two hard pitches are either greasy/pumpy or on dodgy bolts so not as fun as the rest of the route. The 6b+ and 6b pitches at the top are the best by miles - don't go up the HVS groove - you miss the best pitch on the route! Why are the best bolts on the easiest pitches???
with Emily
Bit of a long day out all in all, approach took ages as the abseils don't exist from Recondo and we had to ab of various single bolts and old trees - not recommended. The route has some great pitches in the top half and the start but the two hard pitches are either greasy/pumpy or on dodgy bolts so not as fun as the rest of the route. The 6b+ and 6b pitches at the top are the best by miles - don't go up the HVS groove - you miss the best pitch on the route! Why are the best bolts on the easiest pitches???
with Emily
jacobjlloyd 3 Jul, 2010 AltLd Crux is the roof pitch, felt 6c+. Next pitch is only 6c. Useful advice: when belaying from the top of this pitch, hang down on a loop of rope or a 240 sling and you can see and communicate with your second. Useful, as there is plenty of rope drag. All the pitches are excellent in their own right. Really fantastic. Fell through the roof (one hard move to a smooth flat jug - reachy and powerful) but got back on, reversed and did the pitch clean. Contrary to the description, the 6b+ pitch felt fine, not hard for the grade, and it was raining while I led it. Technical and imaginative moves, but not hard.
Crux is the roof pitch, felt 6c+. Next pitch is only 6c. Useful advice: when belaying from the top of this pitch, hang down on a loop of rope or a 240 sling and you can see and communicate with your second. Useful, as there is plenty of rope drag. All the pitches are excellent in their own right. Really fantastic. Fell through the roof (one hard move to a smooth flat jug - reachy and powerful) but got back on, reversed and did the pitch clean. Contrary to the description, the 6b+ pitch felt fine, not hard for the grade, and it was raining while I led it. Technical and imaginative moves, but not hard.
dswansonlow 3 Jul, 2010 Lead RP
Phil Jennings 5 Apr, 2010 AltLd dog tad cold lower section
tad cold lower section
BorisVBlade 3 Apr, 2010 AltLd RP Inspiring Route. P1 4+ & P2 6a+ Lead O/S in one pitch, P3 5+ Second O/S, P4 6c Second with one rest before pulling onto the belay, P5 6c+ Second O/S, P6 5+ Lead O/S, P7 6b+ Lead O/S, P8 3 Lead O/S, P9 6b Second O/S, P10 Lead O/S.
with Ryan Pedrigi
Inspiring Route. P1 4+ & P2 6a+ Lead O/S in one pitch, P3 5+ Second O/S, P4 6c Second with one rest before pulling onto the belay, P5 6c+ Second O/S, P6 5+ Lead O/S, P7 6b+ Lead O/S, P8 3 Lead O/S, P9 6b Second O/S, P10 Lead O/S.
with Ryan Pedrigi
Will Hunt 1 Apr, 2010 AltLd Abbed in from railway bridge. Definitely safer than coming in from Recodo. 60m rope does it fine. P1 (4+) - SJ led. Up a right trending groove past older bolts to a belay next to a tree. P2 (6a+) - WH led. Climb a puzzling slab past very shiny new staple bolts and some suspect looking but surprisingly solid rock. P3 (5) - SJ led. Past more good staples trending right to a belay on the left of the orange slab below the roof. P4 (6c) - WH led. Climb the orange slab to a juggy break in the roof. Traverse right on steep ground until you can clip the next belay on the lip. Clipping the belay proves to be the crux of this pitch! Good staple bolts all the way. P5 (6c+) - SJ led. From the belay on the lip traverse difficultly left to a rusty bolt. From this climb steepy through the wall above on some good and some not so good holds past bolts of a similar age to the first. Difficulties ease substantially after the third bolt. Trending slightly left will require some wires and careful movement on suspect rock before coming back right to a double bolt belay (not as new as the other belays). With the heavy bag on I used the first three bolts as points of aid. P6 (VS) - WH led. Trend up and right across the slab via cracks and some aging fixed gear (threads and pegs). Aim for a pair of bolts higher up below a crack in an obvious groove. Past these step right to a cluster of older bolts to belay. P7 (HVS) - SJ led. Step down and left from the belay past a bolt and a peg to a newer looking bolt at the foot of the obvious groove. Layback up this groove on good trad gear to top out on a ridge and a double bolt belay. P8 (3) - WH led. Walk along the ridge with the odd move of climbing here and there past some intermittent bolts. Belay by a tree on a fresh double bolt belay (the same staples as on the lower pitches). P9 (6b) - WH led. Climb to the top of a pinnacle then continue up occasionally using the arete past excellent bolts. P10 - SJ led. Climb easily along the ridge past the occasional bolt at the harder steps and a few wires if needed to a double bolt belay on a terrace next to Sector Las Nubes. A 70m rope will do this fine.
with Sean_J
Abbed in from railway bridge. Definitely safer than coming in from Recodo. 60m rope does it fine. P1 (4+) - SJ led. Up a right trending groove past older bolts to a belay next to a tree. P2 (6a+) - WH led. Climb a puzzling slab past very shiny new staple bolts and some suspect looking but surprisingly solid rock. P3 (5) - SJ led. Past more good staples trending right to a belay on the left of the orange slab below the roof. P4 (6c) - WH led. Climb the orange slab to a juggy break in the roof. Traverse right on steep ground until you can clip the next belay on the lip. Clipping the belay proves to be the crux of this pitch! Good staple bolts all the way. P5 (6c+) - SJ led. From the belay on the lip traverse difficultly left to a rusty bolt. From this climb steepy through the wall above on some good and some not so good holds past bolts of a similar age to the first. Difficulties ease substantially after the third bolt. Trending slightly left will require some wires and careful movement on suspect rock before coming back right to a double bolt belay (not as new as the other belays). With the heavy bag on I used the first three bolts as points of aid. P6 (VS) - WH led. Trend up and right across the slab via cracks and some aging fixed gear (threads and pegs). Aim for a pair of bolts higher up below a crack in an obvious groove. Past these step right to a cluster of older bolts to belay. P7 (HVS) - SJ led. Step down and left from the belay past a bolt and a peg to a newer looking bolt at the foot of the obvious groove. Layback up this groove on good trad gear to top out on a ridge and a double bolt belay. P8 (3) - WH led. Walk along the ridge with the odd move of climbing here and there past some intermittent bolts. Belay by a tree on a fresh double bolt belay (the same staples as on the lower pitches). P9 (6b) - WH led. Climb to the top of a pinnacle then continue up occasionally using the arete past excellent bolts. P10 - SJ led. Climb easily along the ridge past the occasional bolt at the harder steps and a few wires if needed to a double bolt belay on a terrace next to Sector Las Nubes. A 70m rope will do this fine.
with Sean_J
markalmack 25 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with gcap
with gcap
Hidden 25 Feb, 2010 AltLd dog
Lawrie Brand 25 Jan, 2010 AltLd Epic. Heavy rain started on pitch 7 and temp dropped about 15 degrees. Lots of aid, night climbing, shivering, swearing and general suffering ensued. Good fun - in retrospect..
with Gaz, Tom
Epic. Heavy rain started on pitch 7 and temp dropped about 15 degrees. Lots of aid, night climbing, shivering, swearing and general suffering ensued. Good fun - in retrospect..
with Gaz, Tom
richiebongo 21 Jan, 2010 Lead O/S A wild adventure, went off route, forgot to switch gear when most needed and eventually got benighted three pitches from the top with only one head torch between us. made it back by the skin of our teeth very late. The girls were worried for us. A brilliant adventure!
with Nick Smith
A wild adventure, went off route, forgot to switch gear when most needed and eventually got benighted three pitches from the top with only one head torch between us. made it back by the skin of our teeth very late. The girls were worried for us. A brilliant adventure!
with Nick Smith
Gazleah ?Jan, 2010 Lead dog Caught out by a wrong weather forecast, ended up leaving the wall at 10pm with a extremely bad description of the walk off from the rock fax book (says a scramble, its more like a severe with trad gear!) very cold walk home in hail at -6c
with lawrie brand, tom.ireson
Caught out by a wrong weather forecast, ended up leaving the wall at 10pm with a extremely bad description of the walk off from the rock fax book (says a scramble, its more like a severe with trad gear!) very cold walk home in hail at -6c
with lawrie brand, tom.ireson
tom.ireson ?Jan, 2010 2nd
with Gazleah
with Gazleah
jamiefoxen ?Jan, 2010 AltLd dog unbalevable weather, vortex winds in the gorge and snow. hands like meat chops.
with MonkeyDawson, bob foster
unbalevable weather, vortex winds in the gorge and snow. hands like meat chops.
with MonkeyDawson, bob foster
MonkeyDawson ?Jan, 2010 AltLd
with Jamie, Bob Foster
with Jamie, Bob Foster
tom.ireson ??, 2010 Lead dog Lawrie summed it right up in his comment! long and epic day, would be a brilliant route in the dry but made for a real test of grit when the hail started and even more so when it got dark! Be warned - you pull your rope down from the bridge and that's it you're in for the long haul. Also when you top out on the 6th pitch (6b+)(where we got hit with the first bit of hail), you end up on a nice ledge looking up the arete. Look over the other side and get an idea of the terrain you will be coming down in case you get caught out in the dark, you will be glad of it.
Lawrie summed it right up in his comment! long and epic day, would be a brilliant route in the dry but made for a real test of grit when the hail started and even more so when it got dark! Be warned - you pull your rope down from the bridge and that's it you're in for the long haul. Also when you top out on the 6th pitch (6b+)(where we got hit with the first bit of hail), you end up on a nice ledge looking up the arete. Look over the other side and get an idea of the terrain you will be coming down in case you get caught out in the dark, you will be glad of it.
Hidden ?Dec, 2009 AltLd
burto 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd dog
with mike
with mike
mikecopp 5 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Ian B
with Ian B
Shaw Brown 20 Mar, 2009 AltLd Had to pull on the draw at the start of the 6c+ pitch, plus a rest. Best day trip yet in Spain.
with Simon Palmer
Had to pull on the draw at the start of the 6c+ pitch, plus a rest. Best day trip yet in Spain.
with Simon Palmer
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2009 AltLd O/S
Glyn 11 Dec, 2008 - Awesome! Roof is very hard for 6c! Not the rest day I was hoping for!
Awesome! Roof is very hard for 6c! Not the rest day I was hoping for!
Hidden ?Dec, 2008 AltLd
metal arms 14 Nov, 2008 -
Brown 20 Dec, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Matt
with Matt
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 AltLd
stuwelly85 ?Apr, 2007 AltLd dog
with simonr
with simonr
simonr ?Apr, 2007 AltLd dog
mbutton ?Mar, 2007 Lead O/S
with Tris Fox
with Tris Fox
Smelly Fox 14 Oct, 2006 AltLd dog Took a fall on the roof, then burned out on the head wall... much cursing! Found the ‘crux’ pitch 7 fine though... dont understand the fuss. Fantastic route!
with Mark Button
Took a fall on the roof, then burned out on the head wall... much cursing! Found the ‘crux’ pitch 7 fine though... dont understand the fuss. Fantastic route!
with Mark Button
Hidden 11 Feb, 2005 AltLd
migs493 12 Dec, 2001 AltLd O/S
goi.ashmore 18 Oct, 1998 Lead O/S Started with 1,5 hours of light left. Finished in the pitch black
with Roy Thomas
Started with 1,5 hours of light left. Finished in the pitch black
with Roy Thomas
dan gibson ?Apr, 1998 Lead O/S
Luis SD ??, 1997 AltLd O/S
peterbull ??, 1996 AltLd O/S
Mike_d78 15 Nov, 1994 AltLd O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
ste_d 15 Nov, 1994 AltLd O/S
Spottykidfromstourbridge ??, 1994 Lead O/S Best the Swedes to it with an early start. Belting Route!
Best the Swedes to it with an early start. Belting Route!
graham lawrie ??, 1993 Lead O/S
with Rodger Palin
with Rodger Palin
keefe 31 Dec, 1991 -
Hidden ??, 1981 Lead
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Voting
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set