No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists

In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
malone 25 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with Mike Cross
with Mike Cross
AdamDavies97 21 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Kenneth Davies
with Kenneth Davies
smollett 3 Jan, 2017 AltLd dnf Very thin. Backed off after first pitch
with Andrew
Very thin. Backed off after first pitch
with Andrew
QuicNic 19 Mar, 2016 AltLd rpt Beautiful day. Started above the clouds. First pitch was broken so avoided by left wall and a line of frozen turf. Rest was in mainly good condition with occasional soft patches and the sound of running water beneath. Traverse was a little unconsolidated...... topped out into sun and warmth!
Beautiful day. Started above the clouds. First pitch was broken so avoided by left wall and a line of frozen turf. Rest was in mainly good condition with occasional soft patches and the sound of running water beneath. Traverse was a little unconsolidated...... topped out into sun and warmth!
Hidden 13 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Mar, 2015 AltLd O/S
Marcus McLernon 1 Mar, 2015 AltLd Made our own slight variation to the book, started in the right chimney as it had ice, then further up the book had said to avoid constriction but we went straight up. Whole route was quite snow filled and it was fairly consolidated apart from the final section. We did it in 4 pitches but the last pitch was a simil-climb due to lack of placement opportunities. Weather was amazing with just a little snow and wind until we topped out into white out and high winds.
with Darius Roman
Made our own slight variation to the book, started in the right chimney as it had ice, then further up the book had said to avoid constriction but we went straight up. Whole route was quite snow filled and it was fairly consolidated apart from the final section. We did it in 4 pitches but the last pitch was a simil-climb due to lack of placement opportunities. Weather was amazing with just a little snow and wind until we topped out into white out and high winds.
with Darius Roman
HarryNewmark 14 Feb, 2015 Lead
with Abigail Robinson
with Abigail Robinson
David Stevens 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Plungeman 7 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 2 (up the ice), 4 (to the bifurcation) & 6 (final stint over the cornice). Beautiful day when we started, 40-50mph winds by the time it came to topping out. Very enjoyable apart from the spindrift!
Led pitches 2 (up the ice), 4 (to the bifurcation) & 6 (final stint over the cornice). Beautiful day when we started, 40-50mph winds by the time it came to topping out. Very enjoyable apart from the spindrift!
Hidden ?Feb, 2015 AltLd
kbow265 ?Feb, 2015 -
Hidden 4 Jan, 2015 Solo O/S
Samuel Wainwright 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Fantastic! Top pitch through soft cornice in the dark, character building! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/parallel-lochnagar.html
with Alasdair Ewen, Rob Steer
Fantastic! Top pitch through soft cornice in the dark, character building! http://wainwrightclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/parallel-lochnagar.html
with Alasdair Ewen, Rob Steer
forcan 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Conditions and lack of belays jump this one a grade... Appeared to be the first ascent this winter, no apparent sign of any one else having been on the route
with Rob Steer, Samuel Wainwright
Conditions and lack of belays jump this one a grade... Appeared to be the first ascent this winter, no apparent sign of any one else having been on the route
with Rob Steer, Samuel Wainwright
outdoorrob999 11 Jan, 2014 2nd O/S
timday 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd O/S Did this some years ago and had a horrific time in soft snow at the "corner". Conditions there (a bit) better this time. All the real fun in the ice of the first pitch or so of course. Tagged on the route in the SAIS patrol's blog: http://saisscairngorms.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/a-busier-lochnagar.html
with Martin
Did this some years ago and had a horrific time in soft snow at the "corner". Conditions there (a bit) better this time. All the real fun in the ice of the first pitch or so of course. Tagged on the route in the SAIS patrol's blog: http://saisscairngorms.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/a-busier-lochnagar.html
with Martin
martinh13 2 Mar, 2013 AltLd Ice still good but melting fast.
with timday
Ice still good but melting fast.
with timday
kenneM 2 Jan, 2013 Lead Thawing rapidly but managed to be in ok conditions. Climbed with Davey and KY.
with James Kelly, Davey Luke
Thawing rapidly but managed to be in ok conditions. Climbed with Davey and KY.
with James Kelly, Davey Luke
Hidden ??, 2013 -
alasdair19 ??, 2013 -
Gavin L 19 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Bob.allan, Rew Ferguson
with Bob.allan, Rew Ferguson
Bob.allan 19 Feb, 2012 AltLd
with Gavin L, Rew ferguson
with Gavin L, Rew ferguson
marcushorgan 11 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S First two pitches excellent sport with good ice, direct line up 2nd pitch offers sections of vertical ice, better to do right fork variation for the finish rather than easy gully at top of left fork. Great day out
with Russell Gill, Dan Currie
First two pitches excellent sport with good ice, direct line up 2nd pitch offers sections of vertical ice, better to do right fork variation for the finish rather than easy gully at top of left fork. Great day out
with Russell Gill, Dan Currie
dancurrie 11 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Russell Gill, Marcus Horgan
with Russell Gill, Marcus Horgan
Hidden ??, 2012 -
abbeywall 6 Mar, 2011 AltLd led first pitch. Then went up the chimney to the right which had a desparate thrutchy couple of moves to get over the chockstone. Bomber placements all the way and great exit
with K
led first pitch. Then went up the chimney to the right which had a desparate thrutchy couple of moves to get over the chockstone. Bomber placements all the way and great exit
with K
Hidden 5 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
LogieNick 27 Feb, 2011 AltLd After backing off Giant's Head Chimney (Scott deciding 75 degree mush a little unsafe!) followed a party of 3 up Parallel A. 2 decent ice / neve pitches. Led 1,3,5. 5 hours climb topping out in the dark at 18:00. Enjoyable first day out with Scott.
with Scott Muir
After backing off Giant's Head Chimney (Scott deciding 75 degree mush a little unsafe!) followed a party of 3 up Parallel A. 2 decent ice / neve pitches. Led 1,3,5. 5 hours climb topping out in the dark at 18:00. Enjoyable first day out with Scott.
with Scott Muir
Hidden 12 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
Tomek S 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S Good ice condition on the bottom and middle section of the gully. Snow on the last pitch well unconsolidated. It was fantastic climb.
with Wojttek
Good ice condition on the bottom and middle section of the gully. Snow on the last pitch well unconsolidated. It was fantastic climb.
with Wojttek
Wojttek 6 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Tomek S
with Tomek S
Jon de Leyser ?Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Chris Filo G.
with Chris Filo G.
Hidden 30 Jan, 2011 Lead O/S
Colin Mcgregor 27 Jan, 2011 AltLd Fantastic ice with 1st time placements! Wee bit hollow at the narrowing on 1st pitch but only for a couple of moves.
with KenM
Fantastic ice with 1st time placements! Wee bit hollow at the narrowing on 1st pitch but only for a couple of moves.
with KenM
Chris L Hill 23 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Gwilym
with Gwilym
climberuk 22 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S Felt quite easy. Chris got to lead the best bits (1st and 2nd last pitches). Some bits were unconsolidated with poor protection, other bits had good ice. Took us just over 4hrs.
with Chris P
Felt quite easy. Chris got to lead the best bits (1st and 2nd last pitches). Some bits were unconsolidated with poor protection, other bits had good ice. Took us just over 4hrs.
with Chris P
crispy 22 Jan, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 AltLd
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Lamb 27 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead ice pitch and exit.
with Robert Manby
Lead ice pitch and exit.
with Robert Manby
Hidden 14 Mar, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 20 Feb, 2010 Lead dnf
shugsan 14 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with JasonK
with JasonK
Hoyes 14 Feb, 2010 AltLd O/S
with sim0n
with sim0n
Batt 14 Feb, 2010 Lead Lead all. Bottom pitches fun ice, top run out sugar but still good fun in all.
with andrea
Lead all. Bottom pitches fun ice, top run out sugar but still good fun in all.
with andrea
Liam Ingram 13 Feb, 2010 Lead dnf
with Fi
with Fi
JasonK 13 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with shugsan
with shugsan
Hidden 13 Feb, 2010 2nd
Hidden 13 Feb, 2010 2nd dnf
Skinny Kin 21 Mar, 2009 Solo O/S Soloing up it. Found a helmet tumbling down. Then, an Alien ice axe. It was Richard's. Snow and ice was rotten. Not that pleasant. Cloud rolled in the afternoon but cleared by late afternoon. Nice view.
Soloing up it. Found a helmet tumbling down. Then, an Alien ice axe. It was Richard's. Snow and ice was rotten. Not that pleasant. Cloud rolled in the afternoon but cleared by late afternoon. Nice view.
t_stork 2 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S Petes first grade III
with Pete
Petes first grade III
with Pete
windy100 ??, 2009 -
Hidden 29 Dec, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 26 Dec, 2008 AltLd rpt
michael83 26 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S the ice was a bit thin and rotten in places which made belaying interesting with tv sized blocks winging past!
with Mark, Aly
the ice was a bit thin and rotten in places which made belaying interesting with tv sized blocks winging past!
with Mark, Aly
Hidden ?Dec, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 9 Mar, 2008 Lead
jonnie3430 19 Jan, 2008 Lead
with Anna and Sarah Beth
with Anna and Sarah Beth
TrollJester ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
with VARIOUS Throughout 80's+90's
Neil Adams 9 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
andyinglis 9 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with neil adams
with neil adams
jlismore ?Mar, 2007 AltLd
AndyP 18 Feb, 2007 AltLd O/S The route was not fuly formed. The first 20-ish metres was very thin and Tech. 4. The party behind us appeared to have a leader fall, we noticed they were in difficulty at the base of the route when we were on the third pitch. the casualty was moving so hopefuly it was not too serious (found out later the leader had broken his leg in two places). A chopper took them away. The first pitch was serious and by the time Joe had climbed it there probably was not much of it left. The third pitch was a 65m grade II snow romp.There was a steep ice section at the end of the fourth pitch which Joe led. Thankfully the cornice was a doddle but we had come to do Polyphemus so we had a rack of rock pro and some screws - no snow protection. Not clever. Polyphemus was not in condition at all; more black than white. The overall grade for Parallel A in this condition was probably IV,4.
with Joe
The route was not fuly formed. The first 20-ish metres was very thin and Tech. 4. The party behind us appeared to have a leader fall, we noticed they were in difficulty at the base of the route when we were on the third pitch. the casualty was moving so hopefuly it was not too serious (found out later the leader had broken his leg in two places). A chopper took them away. The first pitch was serious and by the time Joe had climbed it there probably was not much of it left. The third pitch was a 65m grade II snow romp.There was a steep ice section at the end of the fourth pitch which Joe led. Thankfully the cornice was a doddle but we had come to do Polyphemus so we had a rack of rock pro and some screws - no snow protection. Not clever. Polyphemus was not in condition at all; more black than white. The overall grade for Parallel A in this condition was probably IV,4.
with Joe
DavPk 17 Dec, 2006 Lead
with Roel Van Den Ham
with Roel Van Den Ham
Peter Metcalfe 9 Apr, 2006 AltLd Seems to need a lot of icing to be at its best. We ignored the SMC guide's advice to: "go for gullies when icing is good, go for buttreses when there's powder" and paid the price, finding this route pretty hard going at times. Bad weather moved in at around pitch 4 (the traverse left out of the gully), leaving Shaw waist deep in spindrift when he finally left the stance!
Seems to need a lot of icing to be at its best. We ignored the SMC guide's advice to: "go for gullies when icing is good, go for buttreses when there's powder" and paid the price, finding this route pretty hard going at times. Bad weather moved in at around pitch 4 (the traverse left out of the gully), leaving Shaw waist deep in spindrift when he finally left the stance!
Shaw Brown 8 Apr, 2006 AltLd First pitch a bit unconsolidated but enough good stuff to be OK. The guide recommends to avoid the chimney on the third pitch but we found it good. Spindrift city when the wind picks up, lucky for us that it waited until we were near the top.
First pitch a bit unconsolidated but enough good stuff to be OK. The guide recommends to avoid the chimney on the third pitch but we found it good. Spindrift city when the wind picks up, lucky for us that it waited until we were near the top.
Hidden ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
s kennedy ?Mar, 2006 AltLd O/S
with mark mosgrove
with mark mosgrove
Hidden ?Jan, 2005 AltLd
James Gordon ?Mar, 2004 -
Dangerous Dave ??, 2004 Lead O/S
Dirk Wallis ??, 2003 AltLd
with gforce
with gforce
dunx55 ??, 2003 AltLd O/S
Sandy P ??, 2003 AltLd
with Guy Couper-Marsh
with Guy Couper-Marsh
Andy Clarke 9 Mar, 2002 AltLd Excellent first pitch. Tried right fork alternative, but out of condition. Eventually aborted, but then got stuck behind a very slow team. Dark by the time we got to the top. Mates on another route had got tired of waiting and gone to pub. They had a map. We didn't. After a couple of hours decided we'd have to spend the night out. Chris got his full 8 hours, I shivered. Finally got to sleep around 5.00am. Woken half an hour later by snow falling on survival bag. For first time started to get worried. More shivering till dawn revealed we'd bivvied about 500m from the track! Had to poke Chris with ice axe to stop him having Sunday morning lie-in. Greeted on walk out by land rover full of big blokes. Turned out mates had called out MRT! Got in very sheepishly for lift back to car. A proper mini epic. (Led Ps 1,3,5)
with ChrisB
Excellent first pitch. Tried right fork alternative, but out of condition. Eventually aborted, but then got stuck behind a very slow team. Dark by the time we got to the top. Mates on another route had got tired of waiting and gone to pub. They had a map. We didn't. After a couple of hours decided we'd have to spend the night out. Chris got his full 8 hours, I shivered. Finally got to sleep around 5.00am. Woken half an hour later by snow falling on survival bag. For first time started to get worried. More shivering till dawn revealed we'd bivvied about 500m from the track! Had to poke Chris with ice axe to stop him having Sunday morning lie-in. Greeted on walk out by land rover full of big blokes. Turned out mates had called out MRT! Got in very sheepishly for lift back to car. A proper mini epic. (Led Ps 1,3,5)
with ChrisB
niall_mac ?Feb, 2000 AltLd
bandersnatch ??, 1999 Lead
oor wullie ??, 1998 - Climbed 3 times
with Ian Bromley
Climbed 3 times
with Ian Bromley
Hidden ?Apr, 1997 -
Hidden 14 Feb, 1995 AltLd
ChrisMarden ??, 1993 -
with Fiona
with Fiona
FrankW ?Feb, 1992 AltLd O/S
with Roland K
with Roland K
Brian Wilderspin 31 Jan, 1987 Solo O/S
with Perric Crellin
with Perric Crellin
Neil McA 4 Jan, 1985 AltLd O/S First pitch IV in poor powdery conditions
with Andy Perkins
First pitch IV in poor powdery conditions
with Andy Perkins
Hidden ??, 1985 AltLd
Hidden 27 Jan, 1979 AltLd
Sean Kelly ?Jan, 1976 AltLd Started up the initial icefall.
with Ken Burton
Started up the initial icefall.
with Ken Burton
44 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 23
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set