UKC

140m, 3 pitches. A fine route with a steep start and tricky route finding (as most climbs on this buttress)
1. 40m Start below the overhangs to the right of Temptress. Follow a shelf up right until you can curve back left up an overhanging corner. Follow turfy ledges up to a snow shelf and belay from a spike at the back below a steep turfy line.

2. 40m Follow the steep turfy line above (turf pro.) to beneath some overhangs. Move up right then back left to bypass the overhangs before continuing up shelves to the right, to beneath a steep corner (right of a narrower chimney).

3. 60m (or split in to two shorter pitches) Climb a series of steep shelves that rise to the right. Climb out to the edge of the buttress where perched blocks and a jutting flake are passed with excellent exposure opening below. Climb up further steep turfy shelves until a corner/gully leads back left and to the summit of the buttress.

J. R. Mackenzie, R. Webb & N. Wilson 08/Jan/2006.

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Route of Interest
Earls Before Swine

Grade: V 6 ***
(Ben Wyvis - Glas Leathad Mor)

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