UKC

Restricted Access

The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.

A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.

For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Sit-start the low centre ledge, follow crack leftwards on good holds and top out.

Boulder fell recently (Jan 2020) so still has debris on top. First boulder you see walking into Dungy Head beach, close to the cliffs.

FA. Adam Jaggard 19/Jan/2020.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Adam Jaggard 24 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The rocky floor has been washed away in a recent storm and the sit start position is better as a result. Same starting hold.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The rocky floor has been washed away in a recent storm and the sit start position is better as a result. Same starting hold.

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Lulworth

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6A+
Mid f6A+
Low f6A+
High f6A
Mid f6A
Low f6A
High f5+
Mid f5+
Low f5+
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Slopey Traverse

Grade: f6A ***
(Lighthouse Area)

Loading Notifications...