UKC

100m, 3 pitches. A mind-bending route which climbs wildly through the blocky roof in the centre of the steep face, with three excellent hard pitches.Start below an isolated line of weakness in the centre of the compact wall, 10m right of a large boulder.
P1 6a 25m climb the vague technical crack and groove to reach easier ground and belay on a good ledge below the roof.
P2 6a 20m pull up into a groove and grapple leftwards towards an obvious large undercut. Move up and left on steep jugs until it is possible to move back right to reach ledges leading to a good stance below a chossy looking crack and groove.
P3 5c 55m climb up and move left below the crack to the base of the grey and orange pillar. Climb directly up this to reach jugs and then climb the pleasant wall above to the top.

Harry Lewis & Ed Teale 13/Feb/2020.

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Route of Interest
Monkey Shoulder

Grade: E5 6a ***
(The Lizard)

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