11 pitches. Excellent climb!!

Ticklists

Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish Rock Climbs ****, Ultimate Scottish Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, Ultimate HVS ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Franklin Jacoby 2 Jul AltLd
Guy Arnold 25 May AltLd O/S The last pitch was oozing slime and quite unpleasant. Crux groove was awkward and relatively serious - hard for hvs
The last pitch was oozing slime and quite unpleasant. Crux groove was awkward and relatively serious - hard for hvs
Paul Sagar 24 May AltLd O/S An extremely good, but also extremely serious climb, where good footwork is required throughout, and every pitch is quality but gear is sometimes hard to come by and a steady head is required. Arguably E1 for the awkward offwidth groove pitch, and a whole lot more serious when the top two pitches are wet - as they were for us! Found protection on the penultimate pitch very sparse, and with crucial holds wet it ended up being one of the boldest and most run-out climbs I’ve ever done. Digging out cracks with a nut key, then placing a bad offset 10 meters above the last gear on a wet slab is quite an experience. Guy led the final pitch, which was utterly drenched, and we finished up looking like we’d been sliding around a football pitch in winter. Must have been the first people on it this year, given all the thawed out winter climbing crag-swag we acquired (though the 240 sling and welded crab were soon sacrificed when having to abseil past snow in the descent gully!) Overall a massive day out, and a huge tick. This route alone will have made the trip north of the wall worth it.
An extremely good, but also extremely serious climb, where good footwork is required throughout, and every pitch is quality but gear is sometimes hard to come by and a steady head is required. Arguably E1 for the awkward offwidth groove pitch, and a whole lot more serious when the top two pitches are wet - as they were for us! Found protection on the penultimate pitch very sparse, and with crucial holds wet it ended up being one of the boldest and most run-out climbs I’ve ever done. Digging out cracks with a nut key, then placing a bad offset 10 meters above the last gear on a wet slab is quite an experience. Guy led the final pitch, which was utterly drenched, and we finished up looking like we’d been sliding around a football pitch in winter. Must have been the first people on it this year, given all the thawed out winter climbing crag-swag we acquired (though the 240 sling and welded crab were soon sacrificed when having to abseil past snow in the descent gully!) Overall a massive day out, and a huge tick. This route alone will have made the trip north of the wall worth it.
Adam Coles 5 Sep, 2018 Lead O/S
with Rick
with Rick
marconi 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S First day of Scottish trip, camping at Loch Muick. A good long route, wet above the off width groove all the way to the top
First day of Scottish trip, camping at Loch Muick. A good long route, wet above the off width groove all the way to the top
admackie 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd a combination of long walk poor route finding and climbing a route that was visibly soaking from the ground made for a pretty epic day
with marconi
a combination of long walk poor route finding and climbing a route that was visibly soaking from the ground made for a pretty epic day
with marconi
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
Fiona Hughes 24 Jul, 2018 2nd
with SP
with SP
Calum Wadsworth 22 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Awesome route. Lead the odds
with David R
Awesome route. Lead the odds
with David R
Dougbart 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Captain Solo 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt Led the odds this time, a grand day out.
Led the odds this time, a grand day out.
hetheringtom 4 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Ethan Lisk
with Ethan Lisk
08nbrierley 27 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S lead Odds
with sarah
lead Odds
with sarah
jpc1 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd Weekend at Creag an Dubh Loch. Walked in and started climb at around 12.30 / 1 pm. Tom led first crux. I led upper crux. Top pitches very wet / muddy and a bit slimey. Late finish and then back to camp at Creag an Dubh Loch around 9 pm
with Tom
Weekend at Creag an Dubh Loch. Walked in and started climb at around 12.30 / 1 pm. Tom led first crux. I led upper crux. Top pitches very wet / muddy and a bit slimey. Late finish and then back to camp at Creag an Dubh Loch around 9 pm
with Tom
Hidden 5 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27 May, 2018 AltLd O/S
mjackson 11 Aug, 2017 2nd
Graham Westbrook 11 Aug, 2017 Lead RP Led all pitches. It rained on pitch 4. Nearly bailed but weather improved a bit. Took a little fall in the offwidth groove. Got back on it and got it clean. Loads of wet rock! Some great climbing though and I'm glad we did it!
Led all pitches. It rained on pitch 4. Nearly bailed but weather improved a bit. Took a little fall in the offwidth groove. Got back on it and got it clean. Loads of wet rock! Some great climbing though and I'm glad we did it!
BenjyW 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S My first mountain route. What an experience! Huge day
with Ed Runnalls
My first mountain route. What an experience! Huge day
with Ed Runnalls
ferdia 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Rozzy Pedder
with Rozzy Pedder
Hidden 17 Jul, 2017 AltLd
bc44caesar 25 Jun, 2017 AltLd dnf p1-4, bailed up the veg
p1-4, bailed up the veg
jev 18 Jun, 2017 Lead dnf
with Sian
with Sian
nellyonarope 27 May, 2017 AltLd
Steven Carter 4 Sep, 2016 -
Captain Solo 4 Sep, 2016 AltLd A long and varied climb with lots of interesting pitches. Midgies horrific to start but thankfully lost interest halfway up, makes you climb fast, up in 5 hrs. Dodged some heavy looking showers, won a watch today.
A long and varied climb with lots of interesting pitches. Midgies horrific to start but thankfully lost interest halfway up, makes you climb fast, up in 5 hrs. Dodged some heavy looking showers, won a watch today.
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Crest Jewel 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with William (Bill) Edward Parker
with William (Bill) Edward Parker
Hidden 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
elliptic 28 May, 2016 AltLd Escaped off via the terrace due to late start.
with Dawn
Escaped off via the terrace due to late start.
with Dawn
MrRiley 1 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Bucket list tick this one! What an incredible route - sustained, (mostly) well protected and engaging climbing. Got off route slightly on pitch 3/4 as couldn't make the guidebook description fit, probably did pitch 4 of Black Mamba. Quartz corner a little damp and last pitch minging but otherwise dry. Stunning weather and had the place to ourselves! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/10/a-day-off-on-the-dubh-loch-cyclops/
Bucket list tick this one! What an incredible route - sustained, (mostly) well protected and engaging climbing. Got off route slightly on pitch 3/4 as couldn't make the guidebook description fit, probably did pitch 4 of Black Mamba. Quartz corner a little damp and last pitch minging but otherwise dry. Stunning weather and had the place to ourselves! http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2015/10/a-day-off-on-the-dubh-loch-cyclops/
Debbie Lee 1 Oct, 2015 AltLd Amazing day out.
with MrRiley
Amazing day out.
with MrRiley
mishabruml 10 Sep, 2015 Lead dnf Onsighted first 2 pitches, mostly dry but damp where it mattered! Crux overlap was minging and scary. Bailed off due to impending darkness/doom. Abbed from sketchy in situ nut/peg around p2 belay nr Black Mamba, found spike (much better) about 5m below, left tat there. 55m ab (climbing on a 50 and a 60) just about to the deck
with Andrew Bonham
Onsighted first 2 pitches, mostly dry but damp where it mattered! Crux overlap was minging and scary. Bailed off due to impending darkness/doom. Abbed from sketchy in situ nut/peg around p2 belay nr Black Mamba, found spike (much better) about 5m below, left tat there. 55m ab (climbing on a 50 and a 60) just about to the deck
with Andrew Bonham
Little AndyH 31 May, 2014 -
joe.91 31 May, 2014 AltLd O/S Stayed in the bothy the night before then walked in, climbed it alpine style. Went off route at times due to it being sopping wet in places but did all the major cruxes of the pitches.
Stayed in the bothy the night before then walked in, climbed it alpine style. Went off route at times due to it being sopping wet in places but did all the major cruxes of the pitches.
Little AndyH 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
Nille 8 Jul, 2013 2nd
johannes 7 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Scary rockfall coming down to the right of us.
Scary rockfall coming down to the right of us.
Tobes 6 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Pretty good, mostly stuck to the original line(s)except where damp. A good breeze and nae midges!
with Rob B
Pretty good, mostly stuck to the original line(s)except where damp. A good breeze and nae midges!
with Rob B
SarahA ?Jul, 2013 AltLd
lukehunt 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Vikky
with Vikky
scotclimb 27 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Scorchio,good climbing too.
with Maguel Martin
Scorchio,good climbing too.
with Maguel Martin
Chris wilson 26 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Deserves it classic status, lots of varied pitches, the highlight for me was pitch 6 "the off width groove" pitch which is a superb pitch. Had the cliff to ourselves today which was surprising as it was in good nick (apart from pitch 4 which was mossy and wet) and it was sunny and warm. A memorable day
with Andy G
Deserves it classic status, lots of varied pitches, the highlight for me was pitch 6 "the off width groove" pitch which is a superb pitch. Had the cliff to ourselves today which was surprising as it was in good nick (apart from pitch 4 which was mossy and wet) and it was sunny and warm. A memorable day
with Andy G
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
oliverk 30 Jul, 2011 AltLd Lead even pitches. Great sustained route with many brilliant pitches but also a couple of poor ones. All dry apart from last pitch.
with dwhaley
Lead even pitches. Great sustained route with many brilliant pitches but also a couple of poor ones. All dry apart from last pitch.
with dwhaley
simon_D 3 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S easily the best and hardest HVS around on the mainland..continued interest, cracks, grooves, chimneys the lot :] again, take your flippers for the top!
with Alex
easily the best and hardest HVS around on the mainland..continued interest, cracks, grooves, chimneys the lot :] again, take your flippers for the top!
with Alex
Inti 14 Apr, 2011 AltLd
with Ruth
with Ruth
eddy-on-the-rocks 3 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Massive walk in.
with max
Massive walk in.
with max
sergio46 ?Jul, 2010 2nd dnf Slept overnight at bottom of crag, heavy rain through night, Tim tried 1st pitch and rain started again.
with Tim Clark
Slept overnight at bottom of crag, heavy rain through night, Tim tried 1st pitch and rain started again.
with Tim Clark
jimted 26 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S some good climbing not 3 stars though .lead pitch 3,5,7
with Richard, will
some good climbing not 3 stars though .lead pitch 3,5,7
with Richard, will
Chris L Hill 25 Jun, 2010 AltLd A great day out! Unfortunately took a minor slip traversing right across some blank slabs on P3. Not sure if we should have traversed higher up as we were struggling to follow the route description at that point....
with Simon Pearce
A great day out! Unfortunately took a minor slip traversing right across some blank slabs on P3. Not sure if we should have traversed higher up as we were struggling to follow the route description at that point....
with Simon Pearce
cat22 5 Jun, 2010 2nd O/S
jamestheyip 5 Jun, 2010 Lead dnf Did the first pitch then it start pouring. Within 2 minutes I found myself drenching in a waterfall! Shame as it was such a nice route. I left a small offset nut and a blue krab for retreat.
with pete123
Did the first pitch then it start pouring. Within 2 minutes I found myself drenching in a waterfall! Shame as it was such a nice route. I left a small offset nut and a blue krab for retreat.
with pete123
R0bbie 31 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with Rob Johnson, Taba
with Rob Johnson, Taba
pete87abs 20 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with John McCune
with John McCune
Hidden ?May, 2008 AltLd
Hidden 12 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
sgl 12 Sep, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
with Konnie
Bruce Kerr 8 Sep, 2007 AltLd
with Robert Durran
with Robert Durran
Hidden ?May, 2007 -
Hidden ?May, 2007 AltLd
hwackerhage ?Jun, 2006 AltLd Surely a classic with lots of good 4c/5a climbing
Surely a classic with lots of good 4c/5a climbing
James Gordon ??, 2006 -
Brian McC ??, 2005 -
dave o 24 Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with bill s
with bill s
jcw ??, 2003 -
with Simon Richardson
with Simon Richardson
Chad123 ??, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Greg
with Greg
alan moore ??, 2000 - Rained till noon but blew dry by 5. Set off up five good pitches and scramble up the VDiff escape to the sound of Loons howling on the loch.
Rained till noon but blew dry by 5. Set off up five good pitches and scramble up the VDiff escape to the sound of Loons howling on the loch.
Hidden ??, 1995 -
Hidden ??, 1991 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1988 AltLd
mark-abz 4 Jul, 1987 Lead
with Bill P
with Bill P
Hidden 26 Aug, 1984 2nd
Fraidknot 21 May, 1980 -
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 22
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set