1m, 3 pitches.
Pitch 1: Straw Pig. Approx 40m traverse right through over hanging chalk with a rest ledge half way. Finish is a few strenuous moves through the arch. Finish on the buttress.
Pitch 2: wood Pig. Approx 30m traverse right from end of Straw Pig. Through mostly vertical chalk with a couple of roof sections. The crux is the first roof and good footwork is needed on the final few moves before the buttress. Use the low steinpull in the second roof to reach the high placement.
Pitch 3: Stone Pig. Approx 25m. The shortest of the three and probably the easiest but don't let the relaxed start fool you. There are some long and powerful moves through the cave. Use the block in the roof with a placement either side (reverse grip for second, right side). Route finishes on the middle of the slab when the holds run out.
Mega placements throughout.
DO NOT CUT NEW PLACEMENTS UNLESS HOLDS HAVE RIPPED.
Pitch 2: wood Pig. Approx 30m traverse right from end of Straw Pig. Through mostly vertical chalk with a couple of roof sections. The crux is the first roof and good footwork is needed on the final few moves before the buttress. Use the low steinpull in the second roof to reach the high placement.
Pitch 3: Stone Pig. Approx 25m. The shortest of the three and probably the easiest but don't let the relaxed start fool you. There are some long and powerful moves through the cave. Use the block in the roof with a placement either side (reverse grip for second, right side). Route finishes on the middle of the slab when the holds run out.
Mega placements throughout.
DO NOT CUT NEW PLACEMENTS UNLESS HOLDS HAVE RIPPED.
Toby Cronshaw 07/Jun/2020.
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Route of Interest
King-Kong-Schlong-a-Dong
Grade: M8 ***
(Newhaven)