600m. A striking line and one of the most famous and coverted snow aretes in the alps. Good crampon technique is needed to move quickly and safely.

P Gussfeldt with H Grass & J Gross 12/Aug/1878

Feedback

UserDateNotes
climbingronnie 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Conditions were icy, we should have gone over the second rock step (sharks fin) instead of round it - a sketchy hard ice traverse. Ridge itself was icy in places, screws were useful.
βeta?
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βeta: Conditions were icy, we should have gone over the second rock step (sharks fin) instead of round it - a sketchy hard ice traverse. Ridge itself was icy in places, screws were useful.
Pero 28 Jul Show βeta
βeta: All the difficulties were on the rock sections. There was a bottleneck at the first rock step and rocks being kicked down. Luckily we kept clear. The snow section was slightly icy but really quite easy. The final section to the summit was quite time consuming with another bottleneck. A good climb, but over-estimated IMO.
βeta?
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βeta: All the difficulties were on the rock sections. There was a bottleneck at the first rock step and rocks being kicked down. Luckily we kept clear. The snow section was slightly icy but really quite easy. The final section to the summit was quite time consuming with another bottleneck. A good climb, but over-estimated IMO.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Rikardo 16 Sep AltLd
with jon gupta
with jon gupta
Hidden 5 Aug AltLd
Pero 19 Jul Lead
_hs_ ?Jul -
Misha 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with davkeo
with davkeo
davkeo 3 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Misha
with Misha
Colin Scotchford 8 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Michael 11 Aug, 2015 -
chris_B 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd 6 hours Tschierva hütte to summit. Great classic, lived up to reputation. 35m rope fine, nice to have some rock gear at the top because it was a bit snowy. Descended Spallograt to Marco e Rosa, then to Diavolezza via Bellavista terraces and Foretzza ridge: a bit tedious and Highly unrecommended in late summer conditions! Traversing over Piz Palü looked a lot better. Hitched back to Pontresina. 13hours in all, not quite the right time ratio of climb:descent for us!
with louby
6 hours Tschierva hütte to summit. Great classic, lived up to reputation. 35m rope fine, nice to have some rock gear at the top because it was a bit snowy. Descended Spallograt to Marco e Rosa, then to Diavolezza via Bellavista terraces and Foretzza ridge: a bit tedious and Highly unrecommended in late summer conditions! Traversing over Piz Palü looked a lot better. Hitched back to Pontresina. 13hours in all, not quite the right time ratio of climb:descent for us!
with louby
louby 3 Aug, 2015 AltLd 2nd Rocky section was better than expected. Glad to be early on the route as first section up to snow ridge a little loose. Descent to diavolezza took longer than the ascent!
with chris_B
2nd Rocky section was better than expected. Glad to be early on the route as first section up to snow ridge a little loose. Descent to diavolezza took longer than the ascent!
with chris_B
Kean 16 Aug, 2013 AltLd We bivvied at 3200m. Set off at 5am. Reached summit at 9am and Marco e Rosa hut at 10.30am The Bergschrund was tricky, but a strategic bolt allows it to be overcome swiftly: reach the 'schrund. Skirt along 'shrund L until you reach the rock buttress (the schrund starts to descend L at this point). Continue L approx 4m, then step easily onto the rock and ascend approx 1m to gain a ledge (crampon scratch marks). Traverse this R easily for 2-3 m to reach a bolt. If you reach 'schrund after daylight, bolt is easily spotted cos a big yellow circle has been painted. Once clipped, you can step easily onto snow slope and away you go. Route has a lot of shiny new bolts. We took small rack but never remotely considered placing anything. One axe. 30m rope.
with Mark the Bergschrund meister
We bivvied at 3200m. Set off at 5am. Reached summit at 9am and Marco e Rosa hut at 10.30am The Bergschrund was tricky, but a strategic bolt allows it to be overcome swiftly: reach the 'schrund. Skirt along 'shrund L until you reach the rock buttress (the schrund starts to descend L at this point). Continue L approx 4m, then step easily onto the rock and ascend approx 1m to gain a ledge (crampon scratch marks). Traverse this R easily for 2-3 m to reach a bolt. If you reach 'schrund after daylight, bolt is easily spotted cos a big yellow circle has been painted. Once clipped, you can step easily onto snow slope and away you go. Route has a lot of shiny new bolts. We took small rack but never remotely considered placing anything. One axe. 30m rope.
with Mark the Bergschrund meister
MSchobitz ?Sep, 2012 -
with Papa
with Papa
Clevelandclimber 29 Aug, 2012 - Up the Boabncograt down Spallograt.
Up the Boabncograt down Spallograt.
John HW 21 Aug, 2012 - Hit hard glacial ice on wind scoured section of the biancograt about 75 - 100m in length. 10 hrs from Tschierva Hut to Marco e Rosa
with Cath
Hit hard glacial ice on wind scoured section of the biancograt about 75 - 100m in length. 10 hrs from Tschierva Hut to Marco e Rosa
with Cath
fishjh2 20 Aug, 2012 2nd
Hidden ?Aug, 2012 2nd
Sir Pilade ?Jul, 2012 -
Hidden 25 Aug, 2011 2nd
Jonny M 5 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S
with AndyFunnell, James Pearson
with AndyFunnell, James Pearson
Pete Nugent 26 Aug, 2010 AltLd Up from the Tscherva Hut, down the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa.
with Will Wheale
Up from the Tscherva Hut, down the Spallagrat to the Marco e Rosa.
with Will Wheale
Hidden 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S
Hidden 3 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S
HardenClimber ?Aug, 2010 -
with Jon Halliday
with Jon Halliday
Matt Bennett 31 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S 7.5hrs hut-summit
with Lewis Grey
7.5hrs hut-summit
with Lewis Grey
Hidden 31 Jul, 2010 AltLd
twoplates ?Aug, 2009 AltLd
with dave sharpe
with dave sharpe
Hidden 30 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2009 -
Byronius Maximus ?Aug, 2008 -
J1PEF ?Aug, 2008 - A great day out
A great day out
Guy Wilson ?Jul, 2008 -
with Byron Buck
with Byron Buck
jam_rich ?Jul, 2008 -
Hidden 10 Aug, 2006 -
Hidden 14 Jul, 2006 AltLd
nickdonohue ?Aug, 1999 - mostly / entirely moving together; very aesthetic route
with Mark McCarthy
mostly / entirely moving together; very aesthetic route
with Mark McCarthy
pauldrew ?Jul, 1995 AltLd
with Lisa Cox
with Lisa Cox
Marti999 ??, 1995 -
Falko 15 Aug, 1977 Lead O/S Absolutely brilliant! One of my longest (and best) alpine days. 6 hours 40 mins to summit from a bivvy outside the Tschierva Hut and 7 hours back down (yes, we liked the arete so much that we went back down it!). We then walked out to Morteratsch and hitched a lift to Silvaplana in the Engadine valley, where our wives were camping. A 22 hour day - fit, or what!
with Al W.
Absolutely brilliant! One of my longest (and best) alpine days. 6 hours 40 mins to summit from a bivvy outside the Tschierva Hut and 7 hours back down (yes, we liked the arete so much that we went back down it!). We then walked out to Morteratsch and hitched a lift to Silvaplana in the Engadine valley, where our wives were camping. A 22 hour day - fit, or what!
with Al W.
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