UKC

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The upper cliff had some good trad climbing that is worth looking at if the swell is affecting other areas of the Swanage cliffs. A steady head is needed to deal with the odd loose section of rock but is often better than it looks. One nut crack area has some friendly routes to get you started. The Yellow wall is a big adventure in its self and see few assents, but when the evening light is on it looks amazing.

The boulder field is worth making the long trek with pads to explore, just take it steady down the steep entry slopes.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions apply from Pier Bottom (the valley north of St Aldhem's Head) to the east arete of The Yellow Wall and from Buttery Corner (the point at which the undercliff below St. Aldhelm's Head gives way to seacliff) to Slippery Ledge.

Sit start under roof just right of Alabama Hotpocket using a good left hand and a big flat right hand, put a toe in the roof ,make 'tricky' moves out to the lip and finish up on jugs. No supporting blocks.

B Walker May/2019.

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Guidebooks for St. Aldhelm's Head

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High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
Route of Interest
Flashed 2000

Grade: f7A ***
(Blacknor Beach)

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