UKC
16m. Goes where God is Dead should have gone, and explores the excellent, pocketed headwall above the roof. Stunning climbing, but escapable (though bear in mind that an early escape leads into shattered choss, a long way above the reef). Follow God is Dead to the roof, swing onto the right arête of the groove and gain the pockets above the roof. Climb more easily straight up the compact, dark grey headwall directly above the roof, using the left arête as necessary, until a careful exit on good holds is possible. The hard section is safe enough with a big spring tide (though you might still touch the reef), but the upper headwall and exit is 16m high, and the water depth on the reef is about 3m.

Video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=alZKap24MK0

Alexis Perry 2020.

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Guidebooks for London Bridge

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
West Country Climbs Cover
West Country Climbs (2022)
Rockfax
By Mark Glaister
South Devon Cover
South Devon (2018)
The Climbers Club
By Pete Saunders
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Route of Interest
Shadow Styx

Grade: 7c ***
(Long Quarry Point)

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