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User | Date | Notes | ||
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Keith Lambley | 30 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: The UKC description for this route sounds simple but in reality it's a bit more complicated. If you continue to the South Peak (reccomended) you join the Ottoz route for 3 more pitches, 2 of which are well bolted 5b, the 6 pitches of the Cheney route mentioned here I would class as sparsely bolted. The best topo I have seen is in the new Val Veny Granite guide book (copy to view in the Rifugio Monzino). | ||
Show beta
βeta: The UKC description for this route sounds simple but in reality it's a bit more complicated. If you continue to the South Peak (reccomended) you join the Ottoz route for 3 more pitches, 2 of which are well bolted 5b, the 6 pitches of the Cheney route mentioned here I would class as sparsely bolted. The best topo I have seen is in the new Val Veny Granite guide book (copy to view in the Rifugio Monzino). |
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Keith Lambley | 30 Jul, 2023 |
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βeta: For the descent there is an abseil piste down the face starting ~30m climbers left from the finish of the Ottoz route, apart from a rope\sling initial point it's all new double bolt belays linked with stainless steel links. There are 11 of these set at 25m intervals down to the snow patch, after that it's possible to turn skiers right and another 3 new 25m spaced abseil points take you onto the Chatelet Glacier and easily back to the Refugio Monzino, much easier than reversing the approach route. All shown on a topo on the wall in the Refugio Monzino. | ||
Show beta
βeta: For the descent there is an abseil piste down the face starting ~30m climbers left from the finish of the Ottoz route, apart from a ropesling initial point it's all new double bolt belays linked with stainless steel links. There are 11 of these set at 25m intervals down to the snow patch, after that it's possible to turn skiers right and another 3 new 25m spaced abseil points take you onto the Chatelet Glacier and easily back to the Refugio Monzino, much easier than reversing the approach route. All shown on a topo on the wall in the Refugio Monzino. |
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Jesse Nagel | 14 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Abseils on the normal route were easy to find and in good state (July 2022). | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Abseils on the normal route were easy to find and in good state (July 2022). |
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JFT | 10 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: This is the SW ridge (called Via Cheney in guidebooks) which leads to the the top 2 pitches of Ottoz-Herzeler and the summit which shouldn't be missed! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This is the SW ridge (called Via Cheney in guidebooks) which leads to the the top 2 pitches of Ottoz-Herzeler and the summit which shouldn't be missed! |
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chris smith | 2 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Good mountain route easily accessible from the monzino refuge. Abseil back down the route as opposed to abseiling down the normal route as the abseils were not there (or we couldn’t find them, neither could a party the day before). Also no need for crampons as suggested in the guide. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Good mountain route easily accessible from the monzino refuge. Abseil back down the route as opposed to abseiling down the normal route as the abseils were not there (or we couldn’t find them, neither could a party the day before). Also no need for crampons as suggested in the guide. |
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