UKC

Restricted Access

Nelwy developed sports climbing site. Warning - there is a known and active peregrine nest site very close to the the climbing area. Any disturbance to the birds or the nest site would be illegal as the birds have special legal protection under wildlife  legislation. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

A well used and historical peregrine nesting site is located on the right hand side of the crag. This is a very well monitored site with well documented historical records of productivity and success rate. Climbing activity close to the nest has attracted a lot of negative comments from local residents and from various conservationists. 

Following a site visit it has been suggested that no climbing takes places from March 1st until July 31st on all routes and sectors to the right of (and including) the route "Nuns and Soldiers". 

In the meantime be aware that this is an actively monitored site, located on land owned by Natural Resources Wales and if you encounter sign of agitated and noisy birds (lots of screeching and flying around in circles) then in all likleyhood you are disturbing the nesting birds and need to leave. It's best to avoid the upper tier (far right) of the crag completely until the end of July.

Any disturbance of the nesting birds (even if unintentional) is a criminal offence and South Wales Police have issued warnings to climbers leaving the site. 

17m. Square corners to right side of nose. Awkward moves lead to a layback crack and then a delicate sequence through overhanging nose. Follow groove over easier ground until tricky section to L.O.

Rob McAllister 16/Sep/2021.

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Grade: 7a+ ***
(Cwmaman)

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