435m, 8 pitches.
http://www.isalp.is/problem/heljaregg
Fantastic route taking one of the main ridges up the large cliffs across the bay from Reykjavík. The climbing itself is relatively straightforward, the first 5.6 pitch gives a short crux section (bolted) and after this it's just picking which rock to pull on.
The climb starts in a small col between the lowermost buttress/pinnacle and the upper main cliff. A short, easy scramble up to the base and a single bolt belay stance marks the start of the route.
1) (5.6) Climb up the short steep section past a bolt (crux) and onto easier ground. Climb to the right side of the ridge (bolt) and into a damp corner which leads to a ramp (bolt). Climb the ramp to anther bolt then climb the easiest line straight up to the ridge. Stay on the left side of the ridge to find the bolted belay anchor at a good belay stance.
2) (5.6-) From the anchor follow the ridge or keep slightly left on very easy ground into a small col below a steep section. Climb the steeper rock through cracks on its left side to finish on the right with some fun climbing. Follow the ridge easily to some broken rocks and a bolted belay.
3) (5.6-) Straight up the ridge by the simplest line, a short steep wall is the crux section of this pitch. Well protected by gear in the cracks and a fun little move onto the small plateau above. The bolted anchor is a little tricky to find so don't go too far, belay in this wonderful situation and check out the views.
4) (5.5) Climb the steep wall infront of the belay spot via 2 bolts. Find the easiest route through the easy but loose rock above and onto the easy ground above. The anchor again is tricky to find, bolted anchor.
5) Scramble up the ridge to find the base of the obvious tower on the route.
6) (5.5) Optional but highly recommended. Climb the tower by the front ridge starting in a small, grassy chimney or groove. Some loose rock, but well protected by various cams.
(--Descend from the tower by abseil using the single 12mm bolt. Abseil to the "climbers left", take care with the rope direction on the bolt, a notch ~2m in the bolts' direction should take care of this and thus allow you to go straight down to the col between the tower and the final pitches)
7) (5.4) Easy climbing up the lavas, take care of loose rocks especially with the rope. Climb up to a large flat plateau to belay. No in-situ anchor.
8) (5.4) Further easy climbing up small lava cliffs. Climb to the end of the ridge, single bolt and cam to belay or just belay where you can.
Descent: From the top of the climb follow the edge of the cliffs to the climbers left (~NW) until you reach the obvious valley and river running directly back down to the parking place.
Time: Around 6-10 hours depending on just how chill you want to take the day.
A good route for a first "alpine experience" for those with good trad climbing experience. Helmet is a must, lots of loose rock, route finding is not too tricky and even then one can climb pretty much anywhere on the ridge at a reasonable grade.
Bailing from the route is a difficult proposition, the gullies to the side are full of loose, bad quality rock and abseiling directly down the ridge is a ropework nightmare. The best escape is to finish the climb.
Fantastic route taking one of the main ridges up the large cliffs across the bay from Reykjavík. The climbing itself is relatively straightforward, the first 5.6 pitch gives a short crux section (bolted) and after this it's just picking which rock to pull on.
The climb starts in a small col between the lowermost buttress/pinnacle and the upper main cliff. A short, easy scramble up to the base and a single bolt belay stance marks the start of the route.
1) (5.6) Climb up the short steep section past a bolt (crux) and onto easier ground. Climb to the right side of the ridge (bolt) and into a damp corner which leads to a ramp (bolt). Climb the ramp to anther bolt then climb the easiest line straight up to the ridge. Stay on the left side of the ridge to find the bolted belay anchor at a good belay stance.
2) (5.6-) From the anchor follow the ridge or keep slightly left on very easy ground into a small col below a steep section. Climb the steeper rock through cracks on its left side to finish on the right with some fun climbing. Follow the ridge easily to some broken rocks and a bolted belay.
3) (5.6-) Straight up the ridge by the simplest line, a short steep wall is the crux section of this pitch. Well protected by gear in the cracks and a fun little move onto the small plateau above. The bolted anchor is a little tricky to find so don't go too far, belay in this wonderful situation and check out the views.
4) (5.5) Climb the steep wall infront of the belay spot via 2 bolts. Find the easiest route through the easy but loose rock above and onto the easy ground above. The anchor again is tricky to find, bolted anchor.
5) Scramble up the ridge to find the base of the obvious tower on the route.
6) (5.5) Optional but highly recommended. Climb the tower by the front ridge starting in a small, grassy chimney or groove. Some loose rock, but well protected by various cams.
(--Descend from the tower by abseil using the single 12mm bolt. Abseil to the "climbers left", take care with the rope direction on the bolt, a notch ~2m in the bolts' direction should take care of this and thus allow you to go straight down to the col between the tower and the final pitches)
7) (5.4) Easy climbing up the lavas, take care of loose rocks especially with the rope. Climb up to a large flat plateau to belay. No in-situ anchor.
8) (5.4) Further easy climbing up small lava cliffs. Climb to the end of the ridge, single bolt and cam to belay or just belay where you can.
Descent: From the top of the climb follow the edge of the cliffs to the climbers left (~NW) until you reach the obvious valley and river running directly back down to the parking place.
Time: Around 6-10 hours depending on just how chill you want to take the day.
A good route for a first "alpine experience" for those with good trad climbing experience. Helmet is a must, lots of loose rock, route finding is not too tricky and even then one can climb pretty much anywhere on the ridge at a reasonable grade.
Bailing from the route is a difficult proposition, the gullies to the side are full of loose, bad quality rock and abseiling directly down the ridge is a ropework nightmare. The best escape is to finish the climb.
J?n Geirsson and Sn?varr Gu?mundsson 17/Nov/1984.
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Route of Interest
Stúkan
Grade: 5.6 ***
(Stardalur)