Access: From the cable car terminus take the road to the hairpin bend and cross over to the wall. Go down along its base past the scree cone until you are below a large slab the is a big feature on the right-hand section of the wall. This is a lttle way beyond Andamento Lento and 15m left of Via Da Capo. Our route climbs a rounded pillar on the edge of this slab (20 minutes). The protection is fairly good with good stances. Take a small set of nuts and Friends up to no. 3.
Description:
1. VI 45m. Follow the slabs of the pillar to the right, climbing a dièdre to flakes. Take a stance on a grassy sloping ledge.
2. VII+ 25m. Go down 2m rightwards and reach a wide crack. Climb it until underneath an overhang. Avoid it on the left (VII+ or A0) and find a slab spilt by a thin crack on the left. Climb the crack (VI+) and at its end traverse right via flakes to a stance.
3. VII+ 25m. With delicate climbing (VII+ or A0) up flakes move progressively left passing three small overhangs. Continue by a slab to flakes and a small ramp that goes rightwards to a stance.
4. VII 30m. Continue up a slab going leftwards to reach cracks on the left edge of the pillar and climb up to the foot of a chimney. (Kanel’s topo shows the route finishing here with descent by abseil back down the route.)
5. V 20m. Climb the chimney and go up and right to a stance by a tree.
6. IV+ 45m. Climb up steep flakes then cracks, blocks and vegetation to gain the N Ridge.
Descent: Go down the N Ridge to the top of Via Da Capo and abseil down it.

Franco Giacomelli and Renata Rossi 1990.

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