Lots of high-grade padding up ‘awesome compact walls’ (Griffin) otherwise termed steep slabs, particularly a large slab, the ‘boss’ perhaps, that is a feature of the line. A sustained and hard quartet of pitches with excellent (bolted) protection and bolted stances. However, this route is the abseil descent for several other climbs and you may be interrupted by descending climbers.
Access: As for Excalibur. Start 15m right by a red mark to the right of a curving overhang.
Description:
1. VII 40m. Climb some metres in a slanting small dièdre right of the curving overhang, then follow a thin crack leftwards towards a slab with a ‘belly’ and a flared crack. Go up this and then diagonally rightwards to a slab (VII) that is climbed and leads to a stance in a grassy dièdre.
2. VIII- 40m. Start climbing the big slab, the main feature of the climb. Initially go left then more directly with thin friction and balance climbing to a small ledge.
3. VIII- 40m. Climb slightly leftwards then follow a crack horizontally rightwards and then climb directly by a flared crack (VIII-) to another small ledge and stance.
4. VII- 40m. Climb a slab and a crack to a slender rib which is climbed as it goes rightwards until you reach a crack. Go up this (VII-) then keep right to a stance.
5. IV 20m. Climb the slab, now more broken, to the N Ridge.
Descent: Abseil back down the route.

T. Bärfuss, H. Furrer and T. Utelli 1987

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