18m.
Samaritan Island (the stack to the south of Queen Bess- which is the pronounced triangular stack). It has an easily ramp just below half height you can easily scramble up to. On this ramp anchors can be made for safe belaying on either the seaward face or landward face.
The landward face.
The seaward face
Much better climbing this side rather than the landward face, but the rock quality still needs lots of respect.
HVS 4c
18m
Start in the cave like depression and climb overhanging smooth but fairly easy shelves until the rock becomes more crozley, then make a tricky traverse left and then directly up through more striated rock.
An awesome route that you wish could carry on to the very top (maybe one day someone will....).
The landward face.
The seaward face
Much better climbing this side rather than the landward face, but the rock quality still needs lots of respect.
HVS 4c
18m
Start in the cave like depression and climb overhanging smooth but fairly easy shelves until the rock becomes more crozley, then make a tricky traverse left and then directly up through more striated rock.
An awesome route that you wish could carry on to the very top (maybe one day someone will....).
James Cootes Sep/2020.
* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.
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Route of Interest
Wreckin' and Divin'
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Compass Point (Bude))