120m, 3 pitches. The instant classic on the South side of Dun. The obvious cenotaph corner crack on the west side of Giomach Sgor. The challenge remains to climb the entire corner from the sea. The Kraken utilises a hanging belay, either in the obvious pod or just above on the slab. The 10m below the pod do not add any difficulty/charm to the route. However, starting from the wet offwidth at sea-level would make this climb only for the bravest. The grade reflects a double set of cams; who would bring more to St. Kilda?

1) 50m. From the east side of Giomach Sgor, land/anchor dinghy in the quiet bay, below the obvious right left ramp. Climb the ramp then the dark vertical gully.

2) 20m. Continue left below the ridge into the gap between two pinnacles. Belay above the great abyss (Can you hear the Kraken roar?).

3) 15m. Airy traverse over abyss and up to the large block that marks the access down into the corner. Abseil down into the corner to hanging belay as explained.

4) 6a, 35m. Climb the obvious corner through the roof (is the roof the crux?) and catch a breath at the platform, enjoy your celebratory Guinness…You did carry one up didn’t you?

FA. Sam Tolhurst 06/Jun/2018.

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