95m, 3 pitches.
On the right wall of West Gully is a steep capped chimney that is slightly below the ramp that leads onto the SW Ridge of the Douglas Boulder some 15m up. Thuggish and well protected on the first pitch and delicate and bold on the second.
1. 30m Easy snow leads to the chimney, climb this and back and foot around the roof on good hooks (crux) to reach a ledge. Climb a short corner on the right and trend back left to the spike belay on Inception.
2. 45m Go left for 3m to a left facing corner and climb this to a small bay. Go straight up a wide crack at the back of the bay to reach a prominent arete and climb this (bold) to another ledge, traverse left to belay below the final easy slopes.
3. 20m Easy ground leads to Tower Ridge.
1. 30m Easy snow leads to the chimney, climb this and back and foot around the roof on good hooks (crux) to reach a ledge. Climb a short corner on the right and trend back left to the spike belay on Inception.
2. 45m Go left for 3m to a left facing corner and climb this to a small bay. Go straight up a wide crack at the back of the bay to reach a prominent arete and climb this (bold) to another ledge, traverse left to belay below the final easy slopes.
3. 20m Easy ground leads to Tower Ridge.
Huw Scott, Nathan Adam 04/Jan/2020.
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Route of Interest
Comb Gully
Grade: IV 4 ***
(Ben Nevis)