180m, 4 pitches.
Start 30m right of Fallen Block Climb at a huge square block with a distinct pinnacle leaning against it.
P1 45m 6 Climb the deep crack behind the block & gain a ledge. Boldly climb the groove in the wall above to another ledge. Ascend the wall & crack above to a nasty off-width. Move left to out-fox this & reach a stance just above.
P2 40m 5 Traverse a short way left to a chimney & ascend this. 10m of grassy grooves follow to a bay & stance.
P3 40m 3 A rising traverse line leads rightwards over a crevassed boulder up to The Vestry, a stance of spikes & flakes.
P4 50m 5 Delicately traverse right to the chimney & ascend this to a bay. Above is a turfy groove that leads to the ridge.
P1 45m 6 Climb the deep crack behind the block & gain a ledge. Boldly climb the groove in the wall above to another ledge. Ascend the wall & crack above to a nasty off-width. Move left to out-fox this & reach a stance just above.
P2 40m 5 Traverse a short way left to a chimney & ascend this. 10m of grassy grooves follow to a bay & stance.
P3 40m 3 A rising traverse line leads rightwards over a crevassed boulder up to The Vestry, a stance of spikes & flakes.
P4 50m 5 Delicately traverse right to the chimney & ascend this to a bay. Above is a turfy groove that leads to the ridge.
Tim Neill & Dave Evans Dec/2012.
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Route of Interest
Route II
Grade: V 6 ***
(Glyder Fach)