350m, 8 pitches.
A turfy route with minimal protection on the key pitches. Start as for Polar Bear at the toe of the buttress.
P1-P2 100m 2-3 Make your way up a series of short ice falls & turfy ledges to a stance in a snowy bay below the easiest angled line of turf on the crag, 30m left of The Somme.
P3 35m 4 Climb the turfy groove to a turf ramp that leads to small ledge & a poor stance. Minimal gear.
P4 40m 4 Continue up the turf groove above the stance, marginally better gear, to exit right on to the terrace & a stance at a huge block.
P5 40m 4 A line of turf just right of the stance (& 30m left of The Somme) leads steeply to easier ground. Romp up this to a stance.
P6-P8 150m 2-3 Follow the gully or find a route of more interest to the top.
P1-P2 100m 2-3 Make your way up a series of short ice falls & turfy ledges to a stance in a snowy bay below the easiest angled line of turf on the crag, 30m left of The Somme.
P3 35m 4 Climb the turfy groove to a turf ramp that leads to small ledge & a poor stance. Minimal gear.
P4 40m 4 Continue up the turf groove above the stance, marginally better gear, to exit right on to the terrace & a stance at a huge block.
P5 40m 4 A line of turf just right of the stance (& 30m left of The Somme) leads steeply to easier ground. Romp up this to a stance.
P6-P8 150m 2-3 Follow the gully or find a route of more interest to the top.
M Fowler, R Pawsey & I Ferguson 28/Feb/1981.
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Route of Interest
Colin's Gulley
Grade: V 5 ***
(Craig Yr Ogof (Cwm Silyn))