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Climbing at Chudleigh Rock is an inherently dangerous activity and climbers should be aware of the risk of personal injury and death. The landowner (The Clifford Estate), is very supportive of climbing at the crag, but requires that all climbers using the crag have 3rd party liability insurance cover up to £10 million. This is an integral part of BMC or MCofS membership or can be obtained elsewhere providing it gives the same level of cover.

Fixed equipment on the crag has not been installed by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and is not the responsibility of The Clifford Estate Company Ltd. Please be aware that the fixed equipment is not checked or maintained by the Clifford Estate Company Ltd and the Clifford Estate Company Ltd accepts no liability for the death or injury of any person involved in climbing arising from fixed equipment failure.

Do not light fires - in the past this has caused damage to plants and the local bat colony, and could gain climbers a poor reputation if it happens in future.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 4 April to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

A nesting owl has been reported near Stalactite Direct - avoid this and nearby routes until the young birds have fledged (likely to be in mid-late June). 
A classic Pixie's Wall eliminate.
Sit start for No match for climb id:391982 , with right hand on the very polished blob and left below on sidepull. Move left to square pinchy crimp, big cross through to the two good crimps in the middle of the face then make an awkward move with your right hand up to the higher square crimp just right of the arete. Bring left to good pinch on the arete and finish as for Big Bird ArĂȘte Start. If this isn't clear see topo photo. As this is an eliminate the rest of the arete below the aforementioned pinch is not used.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dale Turrell 17 Feb, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I found an old and poor quality video demonstrating (most of) the problem here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFRupRhDvNU
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I found an old and poor quality video demonstrating (most of) the problem here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nFRupRhDvNU

Logged Ascents

5 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Chudleigh Rocks - South Face

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Voting
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 1
Route of Interest
Sweet Caroline

Grade: f6C ***
(Becka Brook Boulders)

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