245m, 3 pitches. From the small car park. walk about 30m back along the road. You will see the ice from the road. Go up the gully to climb.
Pitch 1 - 30m of ice, which can be thin at extreme ends of the season. Belay from a tree or run it out to the base of pitch 2
Pitch 2 - 20m ice, a vertical section makes this a tough lead. Again head up the snow ramp and belay from a tree.
Hike up under the overwhelming pitch above you.
Pitch 3 - 60m ice, this is the money climb. Start on steep ice, which eases off at about 30/40m. Climb the full rope length to a tree belay.
Bring plenty of screws.
If you find this easy, carry your lunch with you and go for Guiness Stout (WI4+) 150m above Guiness Stout. You can also head right at the base of Guiness Stout and go for High Tension (60m WI4) for a triple whammy

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
elclarko 12 Dec, 2018 AltLd
Ross Davidson 12 Dec, 2018 Lead O/S
with JSMTC
with JSMTC
Hidden 10 Dec, 2018 2nd
andrzej kierzek 26 Feb, 2018 Lead O/S Led P1, P2, P3. We abseiled down the route from bolted stance on P3. P1 was thin, P2 was steep and P3 was long.
Led P1, P2, P3. We abseiled down the route from bolted stance on P3. P1 was thin, P2 was steep and P3 was long.
james.oc 23 Feb, 2018 2nd O/S First pitch had very little ice, but well hooked out so take your time, plenty of good places to put tools and feet, just need about 3 short screws. Minus 20 btw. No meltwater got down here to refreeze. P2 simple, just a little steep but the ice is good. P3 Was long and because of the cold, wow, hands were in bits at the end. Good fun, north facing thou, perhaps better on warmer days.
First pitch had very little ice, but well hooked out so take your time, plenty of good places to put tools and feet, just need about 3 short screws. Minus 20 btw. No meltwater got down here to refreeze. P2 simple, just a little steep but the ice is good. P3 Was long and because of the cold, wow, hands were in bits at the end. Good fun, north facing thou, perhaps better on warmer days.
7toes 3 Feb, 2018 -
with Chris P
with Chris P
Bobs Burger ??, 2018 -
kbow265 1 Jan, 2017 AltLd note to self to sharpen screws
note to self to sharpen screws
eaf4 6 Mar, 2016 AltLd Lead top long pitch. Too much snow to do guiness stout. Scottish feeling route.
with Andy Ice
Lead top long pitch. Too much snow to do guiness stout. Scottish feeling route.
with Andy Ice
thewallace 8 Dec, 2015 Lead
chris warner 7 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S Pitch 3 split into two with belay on left. Absolutely outstanding; favourite route of the trip. Sadly, no Guinness available in Lake Louise afterwards.
with ian lynch, Mikey Brownlowe
Pitch 3 split into two with belay on left. Absolutely outstanding; favourite route of the trip. Sadly, no Guinness available in Lake Louise afterwards.
with ian lynch, Mikey Brownlowe
Roger Cruse 7 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S
with George
with George
Colin Scotchford 23 Mar, 2015 AltLd
nickdonohue 6 Feb, 2014 AltLd -38 first thing! Ice like concrete, luckily well trafficked so lots of hooking! First pitch could be quite hard if not hooked out.
with Dick Turnbull
-38 first thing! Ice like concrete, luckily well trafficked so lots of hooking! First pitch could be quite hard if not hooked out.
with Dick Turnbull
Ly-Cilph 19 Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Clint H
with Clint H
Hidden 13 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S
Keith Lambley 12 Feb, 2013 Lead
with Richard H
with Richard H
Matt Barnes ?Feb, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Alan Green
with Alan Green
stuart34 20 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S simul, solo
with Kim Ladiges
simul, solo
with Kim Ladiges
geoff.comley 19 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Route with character, long 3rd pitch. Great day again.
Route with character, long 3rd pitch. Great day again.
The Bad Cough 13 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Geoff Sudlow
with Geoff Sudlow
adie84 ?Feb, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Mike_Gannon 27 Mar, 2011 Lead O/S Led the thin 30m first pitch. Felt just like winter in Scotland Graham lead a steep but fat 2nd pitch. Still hard going I led 3rd 60m pitch with only 8 screws. Felt very airy and had real hed trouble leading the last 10/12m above the last 22cm screw I was planning to use on the belay!
with Graham Waugh
Led the thin 30m first pitch. Felt just like winter in Scotland Graham lead a steep but fat 2nd pitch. Still hard going I led 3rd 60m pitch with only 8 screws. Felt very airy and had real hed trouble leading the last 10/12m above the last 22cm screw I was planning to use on the belay!
with Graham Waugh
chris.mac ?Mar, 2010 -
with twid
with twid
James B 6 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S The climb was pretty battered, and is like a staircase at the moent
The climb was pretty battered, and is like a staircase at the moent
Hidden 23 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
michael83 23 Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Mark
with Mark
centurion05 ?Feb, 2009 AltLd O/S
with chris thorne
with chris thorne
Hidden 31 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 4 Feb, 2008 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch. Easist pitch on route, but prob physicly hardist pitch I've led.
Led 2nd pitch. Easist pitch on route, but prob physicly hardist pitch I've led.
fritz_in_aotearoa ??, 2008 -
Matthallinan ?Mar, 2007 Lead
with Nicky Winn
with Nicky Winn
Hidden ?Jan, 2006 AltLd O/S
zero six ??, 2006 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jan, 2000 AltLd
freeheel47 ?Mar, 1995 2nd
AB1965 10 Feb, 1994 Lead
Hidden ?Feb, 1992 AltLd O/S
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Voting
High WI-4+
Mid WI-4+
Low WI-4+
High WI-4
Mid WI-4
Low WI-4
High WI-3+
Mid WI-3+
Low WI-3+
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set