Restricted Access
While located on private land, the landowner is welcoming to climbers as long as its small numbers using the venue, dogs strictly under control and on a leash at all times and no litter or damage caused to boundaries. Please ask permission from the farmer at Coed Mawr Farm especially during lambing season.Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Restriction for nesting Ravens and Kestrels apply to the whole of the left hand (Cheshire Cat) buttress only.
28m.
A good line between Hustlers, Beats and Others and John Damocleese. Good featured rock throughout with a bold but steady middle section.
Start 2m right of the crack of Noble Horse/Hustlers at an obvious good diagonal foothold a metre up the blankish wall. A block in the grass can be used propped up against the wall if you can’t reach the first good holds.
Pull steeply up to a peg under the bulge at 5m. Over this to a thread and other good gear. Follow the cracks up and right to good pockets a couple of metres left of the obvious peg on JD. Then more boldly up the wall just right of the prominent heather patch via a lovely right facing pancake flake to the break. Finish straight up the juggy bulge to finish as for Hustlers.
Start 2m right of the crack of Noble Horse/Hustlers at an obvious good diagonal foothold a metre up the blankish wall. A block in the grass can be used propped up against the wall if you can’t reach the first good holds.
Pull steeply up to a peg under the bulge at 5m. Over this to a thread and other good gear. Follow the cracks up and right to good pockets a couple of metres left of the obvious peg on JD. Then more boldly up the wall just right of the prominent heather patch via a lovely right facing pancake flake to the break. Finish straight up the juggy bulge to finish as for Hustlers.
Tim Neill, Keith Ball 21/Mar/2021.
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Route of Interest
Demetreus
Grade: E3 6a ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))