The climb that anyone who's been to Mt Arapiles will recommend you get on, even if you will think it's too easy. A brilliant route, sustained and exposed which will not disappoint.
Start behind and right of Plaque Wall at a smooth slab.
P1 - climb the steepening slab (slightly bold) to gain a blocky flake line. Climb this and then follow the obvious fault up and right to gain a small belay ledge as the rock steepens.
P2 - step right off the belay, round the arete and then up to the horizontal break. Follow this back left round the arete, and squirm left in a fantastically exposed position to gain another belay ledge.
P3 - climb up and right from the belay (either traverse delicately right then climb up, or climb up then traverse right on undercuts) to gain a bottomless chimney. Make more exposed moves up this to a nice ledge.
P4 - step left then continue direct up a steep, but jug-strewn wall to reach a huge ledge (Bard Terrace - one can escape left here to access Ali's via an exposed downclimb). Rather than traverse off however:
P5 - either climb the awkward chimney or the wild wall to the right to reach easier ground below Bluff Minor. Sit there marveling at the experience of low-grade climbing at Mt Arapiles.

From the top, walking forward a few metres one comes across a downclimb through a hole into a dark cave (Ali Baba's). From here squeeze through a small hole to come out behind John's Pinnacle. Walk right round this to join Ali's descent, a short distance above the top of the chains.

Newlands and Hocking 3/1965 Mar/1965

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
christensena 11 Oct AltLd O/S Led P2,P3. Got A's small hex stuck on P3
with Andrew S
Led P2,P3. Got A's small hex stuck on P3
with Andrew S
Hidden 27 Jun Solo O/S
gnc760 5 May Lead O/S P1 & P1
with Paul Heron
P1 & P1
with Paul Heron
Mike Hood 21 Apr AltLd
Andy Clarke 2 Apr AltLd O/S A fabulous route: continuously interesting climbing, maintaining its standard throughout, with some of the finest belay eyries you could wish for. Very lucky to have it all to ourselves. Led P1 (bold), P3 (classy crux) and P5 (typically amazing steepness for the grade). Worth flying round the world for: yea, man and birds are fain of climbing high. I know the first ascensionists quoted Shakespeare to each other, but does the ridge seen side-on also look like Will in profile?
A fabulous route: continuously interesting climbing, maintaining its standard throughout, with some of the finest belay eyries you could wish for. Very lucky to have it all to ourselves. Led P1 (bold), P3 (classy crux) and P5 (typically amazing steepness for the grade). Worth flying round the world for: yea, man and birds are fain of climbing high. I know the first ascensionists quoted Shakespeare to each other, but does the ridge seen side-on also look like Will in profile?
PhilIpGBailey 2 Apr AltLd O/S Me P2&4 Andy 1,3&5. Well what can I say, superlative, a wonderful route. Fair at the grade and nothing to scare the competent 12 leader. The only downside is everyone wants to get on it. So avoid weekends, start early in the day and enjoy one of the best Hard Severes in the world.
Me P2&4 Andy 1,3&5. Well what can I say, superlative, a wonderful route. Fair at the grade and nothing to scare the competent 12 leader. The only downside is everyone wants to get on it. So avoid weekends, start early in the day and enjoy one of the best Hard Severes in the world.
Jemima Churchhouse ?Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S Amazing
with GwilymR
Amazing
with GwilymR
Callumjnelson ?Nov, 2018 AltLd O/S W/Brad. Night climb with no head torch. Silly Mistake
W/Brad. Night climb with no head torch. Silly Mistake
krasavenko 20 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S The higher you go the better it gets! The firs traverse i found harder than the second one
with Scott
The higher you go the better it gets! The firs traverse i found harder than the second one
with Scott
suds_01 12 Oct, 2018 Lead rpt
with Rachel
with Rachel
suds_01 4 Oct, 2018 Lead O/S 5 pitches
with Rachel, Josh
5 pitches
with Rachel, Josh
foobar123 4 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S Led P2&4. Very varied with slabs, overhangs and everything in between. Traverse on P2 was one of the most awkward things I've ever done!
Led P2&4. Very varied with slabs, overhangs and everything in between. Traverse on P2 was one of the most awkward things I've ever done!
jameslomax 4 Oct, 2018 AltLd O/S
Maximo 25 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S Can't believe I never did this until today, so much fun.
Can't believe I never did this until today, so much fun.
emc110502 23 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Crofty
with Crofty
Crofty 22 Aug, 2018 AltLd rpt Bloody amazing. I had forgotten just what a climb this is. Recommended to anybody visiting Arapiles. This time I led P1. P3. P5.
Bloody amazing. I had forgotten just what a climb this is. Recommended to anybody visiting Arapiles. This time I led P1. P3. P5.
adamsriches 13 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead P1 and p3
with Elisa
Lead P1 and p3
with Elisa
Karlgreasley 27 Mar, 2018 AltLd
with Jovan andric , Ben Taylor
with Jovan andric , Ben Taylor
murray 11 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S
with Ben, Emmanuel
with Ben, Emmanuel
beagly77 ??, 2018 -
Matt Cooke 28 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S Final pitch only
Final pitch only
haydng 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
with RMG
with RMG
plant_based_tommo 25 Feb, 2017 Lead O/S epic adventure! lead all pitches. what a day!
with ricard cancam
epic adventure! lead all pitches. what a day!
with ricard cancam
henweeee ??, 2017 -
Gabe Oliver 24 Nov, 2016 Lead O/S Just an all time classic. Lead Becca up this so climbed every pitch
Just an all time classic. Lead Becca up this so climbed every pitch
spidermonkey09 16 Nov, 2016 Solo Wanted to solo this since arriving. Scary but brilliant.
Wanted to solo this since arriving. Scary but brilliant.
Steve Lenartowicz 26 Oct, 2016 Lead
with Clare
with Clare
pearson9596 26 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 26 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S
spidermonkey09 18 Sep, 2016 AltLd O/S Brilliant. Top two pitches are out of this world climbing for the grade- so steep and every hold a jug! Led P1 and 3.
with Marc Lesaicherre
Brilliant. Top two pitches are out of this world climbing for the grade- so steep and every hold a jug! Led P1 and 3.
with Marc Lesaicherre
Hidden 14 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Peter Reynolds 14 Aug, 2016 2nd
1918hasti 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 7 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
markalmack 11 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S
with GAL
with GAL
dorman 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd
Callum Smith 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
with dorman
with dorman
alex_arthur ?Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Lorne
with Lorne
Phil Blue ?Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
wi11 24 Sep, 2015 Solo O/S
rod757 16 May, 2015 Lead
Camilla Mapstone ?May, 2015 AltLd
Hidden 20 Apr, 2015 AltLd
mBob8 ?Apr, 2015 Lead O/S
paco ?Apr, 2015 2nd O/S Really exposed moves with great jugs, a must do!
Really exposed moves with great jugs, a must do!
Noemi 15 Mar, 2015 2nd O/S
with Megan Brown
with Megan Brown
LivBarron 1 Mar, 2015 AltLd
Karlgreasley 1 Mar, 2015 AltLd
Matt Allcock ?Feb, 2015 Lead O/S
Nafclimbsrocks 10 Dec, 2014 2nd O/S
with Thomas
with Thomas
tcn_2002 26 Oct, 2014 AltLd
tcn_2002 26 Oct, 2014 AltLd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 17 Oct, 2014 Solo Fantastic, a real adventure
Fantastic, a real adventure
pembrokeshirecaver ?Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Leon
with Leon
Ceridwen 30 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Logan Mckelvie, Zoe Millington
with Logan Mckelvie, Zoe Millington
helin 15 Apr, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ?Dec, 2013 Lead O/S
adam06 ?Nov, 2013 AltLd
jamie d ?Nov, 2013 AltLd O/S lead 2nd (belly traverse)and 4th. scrambled off to the left in high wind bit sketch
lead 2nd (belly traverse)and 4th. scrambled off to the left in high wind bit sketch
Jones_88 ?Nov, 2013 AltLd
with adam06
with adam06
Cardi 8 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S At night, in Guide Tennies
with Josh Aussie
At night, in Guide Tennies
with Josh Aussie
cbeard 25 May, 2013 AltLd rpt Climbed by the light of the full moon. Complete with Bivouac on the Bard Ledge. It turns out the traverse pitch sucks with an overnight backpack!
with Michael Collins, Hamish Webster
Climbed by the light of the full moon. Complete with Bivouac on the Bard Ledge. It turns out the traverse pitch sucks with an overnight backpack!
with Michael Collins, Hamish Webster
cbeard 3 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Michaela Precourt, Stu Monteiths
with Michaela Precourt, Stu Monteiths
barney800 10 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S Spectacular! Consistent difficulty (for Arapiles) as well.
with Katherine Shaw
Spectacular! Consistent difficulty (for Arapiles) as well.
with Katherine Shaw
Hidden 7 Oct, 2012 2nd O/S
hazeysunshine 14 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Liam
with Liam
will6459 ?Mar, 2012 Lead O/S
chadogrady 1 Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
soph ?Apr, 2011 -
drew8connelly ??, 2011 -
w.pettet-smith ??, 2011 Solo classic!
classic!
pink_hippy 6 Oct, 2010 AltLd O/S I led pitches 1-3, Linley finished
with Andy, LG
I led pitches 1-3, Linley finished
with Andy, LG
Pete Nugent 23 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S I led p2 & 3, Kelly led the rest. Phenomenal exposure. Had climbed Watchtower Crack earlier in the day, rested during the afternoon heat. Started in the early evening and needed torches for the descent.
with Kellly Biasiolli
I led p2 & 3, Kelly led the rest. Phenomenal exposure. Had climbed Watchtower Crack earlier in the day, rested during the afternoon heat. Started in the early evening and needed torches for the descent.
with Kellly Biasiolli
Ant Harris ??, 2010 -
robgixer ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 29 Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S Led P2, 3 and 5. Fantastic exposure!
with Ryan US
Led P2, 3 and 5. Fantastic exposure!
with Ryan US
Hidden ?Apr, 2009 AltLd O/S
david morse ?Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 2009 -
Luuuuuke 3 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Ian
with Ian
eddy-on-the-rocks ?May, 2008 -
fritz_in_aotearoa ??, 2008 -
fritz_in_aotearoa ??, 2008 -
gregoritos ?Oct, 2007 Solo
arose ?Sep, 2007 AltLd
justin burgoyne ?Aug, 2007 AltLd Climbing with Australian SAS.
Climbing with Australian SAS.
Ed Babs 16 Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Kate
with Kate
Tobes ?Feb, 2007 -
with various
with various
monstermunch 11 Dec, 2006 AltLd
with Steve Cowan / Ricarda Thier
with Steve Cowan / Ricarda Thier
Pythonist ?Dec, 2006 Lead O/S Pitches 1 & 3/4
Pitches 1 & 3/4
AndyH1710 ?Apr, 2006 -
Steve Bell ??, 2006 -
johnboyrevel ??, 2006 Lead
with Faye
with Faye
pezzerrr 10 May, 2005 Solo O/S
tobydunford 16 Apr, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Ben Smith, Keith Hobbs
with Ben Smith, Keith Hobbs
peter myers ??, 2005 -
realbobsmith 13 Apr, 2004 Solo O/S
lost.arrow 14 Mar, 2003 -
NorthernRock ?Apr, 2002 -
topsyturvy ??, 2002 AltLd
Kevster ??, 2002 -
mt_clayton 3 Nov, 2001 Lead
with Katie barlow
with Katie barlow
Hidden ?Feb, 2001 AltLd
RossG123 ?Apr, 2000 Lead
RossG123 ?Mar, 2000 Solo
RossG ??, 2000 -
Hidden 6 Sep, 1999 AltLd
Hidden 28 Aug, 1999 AltLd
daviesdan 15 Dec, 1998 Solo RP Rope soloed first, then went back to solo it the following morning just after sunrise. Lovely!
Rope soloed first, then went back to solo it the following morning just after sunrise. Lovely!
jfletcher 2 May, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Libby Illy, David Lyons
with Libby Illy, David Lyons
Rog Wilko ?Jan, 1998 Lead Classic! But quite hard for 12. Worth HS in old money.
with Debbie Wilkinson
Classic! But quite hard for 12. Worth HS in old money.
with Debbie Wilkinson
dan gibson ??, 1998 -
Crofty 12 Nov, 1997 Lead O/S
with Phil
with Phil
Sime64 29 Oct, 1996 AltLd rpt Lead pitches 1,3&5
with Paul SRC
Lead pitches 1,3&5
with Paul SRC
Hidden 8 Oct, 1996 Lead O/S
Sime64 21 May, 1996 AltLd Lead pitches 2,3&5
with Gill
Lead pitches 2,3&5
with Gill
Jonas H ??, 1996 Solo rpt
Campbell Gome 1 Jan, 1995 Lead O/S great climb
great climb
Hidden 15 Apr, 1992 Solo
pauldrew ?Nov, 1990 AltLd
duncan ?Mar, 1984 Solo O/S
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Votes cast 1
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Not Set