Restricted Access
Access to the crag is sensitive given that is is very close to nearby houses - residents have in the past confronted climbers and asked them to leave.
Please make a particular effort to be quiet at this crag (especially avoiding shouting and bad language), take all litter home with you and don't use the crag or it's surrounds as a toilet. Keeping a low profile here is a good idea to help develop good realtionships with local residents and avoid access issues in the future.
Two useful links for further info are the online version of the Cicerone Leicestershire Climbs guidebook and the new Leicestershire Climbs website.
12m.
From a sit start follow Sorceress to the lip of the cave. Move right across the lip before rocking up onto the headwall and climb the slab above direct. The route can obviously be climbed from standing which although slightly easier doesn’t change the grade.
Robin Richmond 18/Jun/2015.
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