50m, 2 pitches.
Start at a broad runnel 5m right of Dream Canyon Handshake.
1/ 6b. Starting from the right climb steeply, trending leftwards into the runnel to a peg at 5m. Climb to a bulge (peg, wires and spike runners), pull up leftwards and make a committing, reachy exit onto a ledge on the left, (good cams). Gain the ledge above then trend rightwards to join Ride My Llama,(poor large cam). The continuation groove is easy but very loose, small cam and wire at the top protects the exit onto the very loose half height ledge.
Belay up and left, several medium cams in the dirt! Medium wires and a spike.
2/ 6a. (A large rack of cams req’d from Dragonfly’s to large silver Dragon). Shuffle rightwards along the ledge and pull through the first of a series of square cut roofs heading for a shallow groove up and right. Climb the groove for 4m to join 3 Dandy Scuttlers, then trend leftwards across the large roof above. Good holds and good gear make for an enjoyable finish directly up the steep airy headwall! Fantastic!
1/ 6b. Starting from the right climb steeply, trending leftwards into the runnel to a peg at 5m. Climb to a bulge (peg, wires and spike runners), pull up leftwards and make a committing, reachy exit onto a ledge on the left, (good cams). Gain the ledge above then trend rightwards to join Ride My Llama,(poor large cam). The continuation groove is easy but very loose, small cam and wire at the top protects the exit onto the very loose half height ledge.
Belay up and left, several medium cams in the dirt! Medium wires and a spike.
2/ 6a. (A large rack of cams req’d from Dragonfly’s to large silver Dragon). Shuffle rightwards along the ledge and pull through the first of a series of square cut roofs heading for a shallow groove up and right. Climb the groove for 4m to join 3 Dandy Scuttlers, then trend leftwards across the large roof above. Good holds and good gear make for an enjoyable finish directly up the steep airy headwall! Fantastic!
Mick Lovatt, Nick Bullock 15/Jun/2021.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
1 users have logged this
Guidebooks for Craig Doris
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Route of Interest
Childhood’s End
Grade: E7 6c ***
(Craig Marchlyn Bach)