UKC

150m. Amazing route, one of the best grade Vs in Scotland, makes Point 5 look truly rubbish!

Ticklists: 3 star Scottish winter, Scottish Winter IV-VII.


ClimberDateStyle
oliverk 01/Apr 2nd

Amazing route, Stuart led the hard bits

with Stuart
A Reid 31/Mar Lead

Final 2 pitches

with Steven Andrews, Anna Wells
Al_Mac 17/Mar AltLd

A wild and windy walk in, particularly once round into the coire but the wind abated once on the route. Good ice, good protection. Col took P1 (first route of the season), and P3 which he ran out to the top. Brilliant route on a stunning day. Dropped a 16cm blue handled BD Express off my harness if anyone happens to find it - happy to sort you out if anyone finds it and would like to return! No idea how it fell off, I turned round to see it bouncing its way back down the route. Sounds like there's quite the swag pile at the bottom just now...

planetmarshall 17/Mar AltLd

In prime condition. Windy on approach and descent, but the route itself sheltered. In 3 pitches then simulclimbed the easy ground to the top. Led P2. Descent off the south side - a bit icy for the glissade at the moment though.

with Zoe Strong
Rob N 10/Mar AltLd O/S
Hidden 10/Mar AltLd O/S
mike fenwick 10/Mar AltLd

Great nick. First time placements. Some peg belays. Spindrift +++. Whiteout descent in a brisk easterly. Lived up to the hype.

with Jas Wood
Hidden 09/Mar AltLd
guitarshane 09/Mar Lead O/S

Quick approach. Good ice on the route, done in three main ice pitches taking insitu belays then a couple snow plod pitches to the top. Second pitch the crux but all pitches were interesting and fun climbing. Mega spindrift showers at times but topped out in blue skies and no wind, fantastic day all round for our first route on this awesome mountain, delighted.

with Graham Lorimer
MorMor 08/Mar Lead O/S
with Martin
thebigeasy 06/Mar AltLd

pretty good nic.

with Josh
Oliver Smaje 03/Mar AltLd O/S

Led p2 and p3 by the skin of my teeth. (In both strength and rope length!)

with Ben Paske, Owain
BPaske 03/Mar AltLd
with Oliver Smaje, Owain
davidbird63 02/Mar 2nd

Two pitches then leader fall. Axe fell to bottom. Abbed off to retrieve. Amazing condition and great climb. Only pair there.

Tinley 01/Mar 2nd
lanky ?/Mar AltLd

I got the second pitch. Lots of wind and abit of fresh dnow

with Rich h
Tom Seccombe 27/Feb AltLd O/S
with Nick Arding
carr0t 25/Feb -

In good condition.

mark-abz 25/Feb AltLd
with carr0t
Hugh Simons 24/Feb AltLd O/S

In 3 main pitches, with 1 more snow plod to top out. I led 1 and 3. Thick ice all the way, only a few sections where the ice was quite brittle. Pitch 3 up the groove was superb. Only 4 of us in the corrie the whole day, amazing!

calumhicks 24/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Feb Lead O/S
tspoon1981 10/Feb AltLd O/S
nickb1 06/Feb 2nd O/S
Roberttaylor 06/Feb Lead O/S

Great condition. Intermittent light spindrift.

with nickb1
Hidden 05/Feb Lead
gripped01 05/Feb AltLd rpt

Thin but excellent entertainment. Soft ice and good neve, had to search for good screw placements

with Bill Billingsly
kevoliver 05/Feb 2nd
with Andrew Brown
Captain Solo 02/Feb AltLd rpt

Superb once again.

Dougbart 02/Feb AltLd

Very nice

aljones91 09/Mar/16 AltLd O/S

Lead first and final runnel pitches. ..unreal! With Bryan and Andy, did first pitch of salmon leap

Hidden 09/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/16 AltLd
hamish2016 05/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/16 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 05/Mar/16 AltLd rpt

Hamish lead P1 (63m), I lead P2 (50m), and we abseiled off.

Misha 28/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Good ice which happily took 16cm screws. No rock gear required. Below the narrows we took a line to the left of the classic line as there was another team on it. Soloed up to the steep step on Salmon Leap and Mark led a pitch from there to the left hand end of the belay ledge at the top of the usual P1. I then did a short pitch to an in situ belay at the foot of the narrows, again to the left of the classic line. Done this way, our P1 and P2 were probably harder than the classic line, not least because our line wasn't hooked out. Mark then did a 50m pitch through the narrows and the continuation gully above, finishing at an ice boss at the top of the difficulties. Can be done in two 60m pitches from the bottom up to there. The narrows were fairly hooked out and reminiscent of Point Five. I did the calf burner walk to the top. Keen to get down quickly so didn't visit the summit - next time! Bum slid down the gully and got down to the car park in just under 2 hours from the top. 3 hours on the route and 8 hour round trip. Felt like a bimble after a long hard day on Beinn Bhan the day (and night) before (hence a late start - only left the car park at 8am). Then 10 hour journey back home, 4pm - 2am, the real crux! Great weather and dry on the route - perfect!

The Grist 28/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Great route. Enjoyable and fun.

with Misha
jamieevans 28/Feb/16 Lead

Pristine conditions, two pitches, one tasty, one sublime. Good look at salmon leap

alex toomey 27/Feb/16 AltLd
Craig Holden 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
cacheson 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

What a route! In great nick, nice and fat with first time placements. I led pitches 2 (crux) and 4. Beautiful day, plenty of other people on the route. First V 5!

Hidden 27/Feb/16 AltLd
davkeo 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

P1&3. Phil packed most of the good stuff into his 70m second pitch. Thoroughly enjoyable day. Blue sky and first trip to Torridon. Up there with the best of them.

Liam Ingram 27/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Led 1 and 3.

adie84 27/Feb/16 -
CaelanB 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

I took the first pitch, what a mega route! In fantastic condition at the moment!

with Joe Barlow, Erik Andrerson
Hidden 26/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
Rhys Macallister 25/Feb/16 -
Hidden 25/Feb/16 -
eaf4 20/Feb/16 AltLd

Wee bit of wind, some weight behind the spindrift...TONS of ice!

with Robin Clothier
Robin Clothier 20/Feb/16 AltLd

some wind, heavy spindrift.

with Euan Fowler
Chrismith 17/Feb/16 2nd

Awesome!

joe.91 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S

Great climb for sure, but it wasn't as mind blowing as I thought it was going to be. Did pitches 1 and 3, climbed in under 5hrs from the car!

Little AndyH 14/Feb/16 AltLd O/S
with joe.91
picasso 13/Feb/16 AltLd

with Klaus

murray ?/Feb/16 AltLd dnf

Abbed off after P3 due to late start

with Sam
Hidden ?/Feb/16 2nd
jpc1 ??/2016 Lead

LAst Route of the winter. Managed to climb it then walk up the road as we saw the rain approaching

with Tom
Hidden 02/Feb/15 2nd O/S
andyinglis 01/Feb/15 Solo O/S

Sociable wade into the coire, then brittle and featured ice on route with a few torrents of graupal at less than convenient moments.

gingerking ?/Feb/15 AltLd
AmyG 24/Jan/15 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Great condition, bit gusty.

Robin Clothier 24/Jan/15 AltLd
with AmyG
Hidden 02/Mar/14 AltLd
Robertgiddy 01/Mar/14 Lead
Grezza 01/Mar/14 Lead

Currently a mix of ice, neve, cruddy snow, spindrift & uncertain gear. Not at it's best.

with Paul E
Northern Mountain Monkey 26/Feb/14 AltLd

Excellent route. Definitely better than Point 5 and any other grade V ice route I've done in Scotland (except maybe Silver Tear). It was fairly damp and mushy on Wednesday, but the ice was still fairly good for screws although a bit melty with FL at the summit. Top groove pitch had some fairly 'sporting' bulges for Scottish grade V.

Shaw Brown 26/Feb/14 AltLd

Ice climbing in the rain, surprisingly good fun!

with loz01
RM199 26/Feb/14 AltLd

Awesome, sustained, 4 pitches of 5 plus 2 x grade 4. Lead 2x 5 and 1 x 4. Awesome first proper grade 5 lead, soggy and serious.

robgixer 19/Feb/14 Lead O/S
Finn Curry 17/Feb/14 2nd

Stunning.

with Paul Warnock
Alex Winter 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. Good ice and good company. LOTS of spindrift being blown down at times, but other than that the conditions were great. Views from the top were stunning. Managed to glissade about half way back down the hill.

with Nick and Alastair
alastairbegley 16/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

great condition with first time placements all the way up. http://www.masterplan-mountaineering.co.uk/2014/02/poachers-fall/

Nick Russell 16/Feb/14 AltLd

Brilliant route, good weather and conditions. Showered with spindrift while bringing Alex and Alastair up p1. I think we did the normal 3 pitches in 2, on 60m ropes.

Scott Rankin 15/Feb/14 AltLd
with Brian Pollock
dan-8990 15/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with PF
Brian Pollock 15/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
stuart34 11/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with dave glad-a-saurous-rex
Hidden 08/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 08/Feb/14 AltLd
Tim_Gomersall 08/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with McBain
SWalls 08/Feb/14 AltLd

Led P1,3

Diggler 08/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
with trevor
Hidden 04/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 31/Jan/14 -
MrRiley 30/Jan/14 AltLd

Amazing, great weather and conditions, mostly first time placements in chewy ice or neve. Harder and more sustained than i expected - rested on a screw on the crux rather than risk a fall! BMC winter meet.

with Janis
Hidden ??/2014 -
team fat belly 12/Apr/13 -

Chris had told me this was an amazing route. Better than point 5. And I have to agree, it is a fantastic short day out. There is something about the history of point 5 though.

with Innes
innes 12/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
gripped01 06/Apr/13 AltLd
with Si Moore
Smith42 06/Apr/13 Lead
HimTiggins 03/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Amanda, Alan
robertmichaellovell 02/Apr/13 AltLd

direct on p2, enjoyed this much more than .5

with Lawrence
wence 02/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Great views, lovely weather, and an excellent direct line up the pillar by Rob

radioshed 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

very good climb!

David Stevens 01/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
chrisallan 31/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route under magnificent weather! The best ice route in Britain I have ever climbed, better than .5 and Devil's Appendix, with so much sustained interestingness. I lead P1-4 (190 metres in total), and Kyle topped out leading the final snow slope of 10 metres and farther to find a belay. The ice was very thick, though a bit brittle, and 3 parties including us climbed this route on this day.

with Mr. K
Mr. K 30/Mar/13 AltLd

I only lead the easier top pitch, but it still counts! =o) Awesome route in great condition. What an amazing day in the mountains.

John Workman 30/Mar/13 AltLd

Really enjoyable

with Lex
GPN 25/Mar/13 Lead dnf

Very cold and getting late - bailed after 2 pitches.

with net
Uisdean hawthorn 24/Mar/13 -
Hidden 24/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Lone Rider 21/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Good climbing on a windy day. Did the main pitches to above the chimney before abbing off on abseil tat left by another party a few days before thus avoinding the maelstrom above and the long plod off the hill on the other side. Felt like cragging really.

with Rob Bryianski
annep 19/Mar/13 AltLd
freudy_love 17/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Amazeballs. Led the crux 2nd pitch (steep!) and the spindrifty chimney pitch (bit thin in places but otherwise waaaaay better than the chimney pitch on point 5 that i got to lead also). Great climbing. Decent screws and in-situ belays. Abseiled off into the maelstrom rather than risk the loaded slopes above :D

with Squirrel, j.richards
Hidden 16/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 16/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
French Erick 10/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Not fat but outstanding. Great lead from Dave on crux p2

RocKalina ?/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with MM
Hidden 25/Feb/13 AltLd
Steven Andrews 22/Feb/13 AltLd

Absolutely fantastic - led up to the cave belay then Ben took it to the base of the chimney and I led on to the top of the ice. Just kept on getting better with the chimney proving absolutely stunning.

with Ben Tibbetts
graeme gatherer ??/2013 -
GaryK 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Belay on RHS at bottom of 1st pitch, some wires in a slanting crack. Gear on RHS @ 35m, clip this and go on to belay under a triangular overhang 8m further on and on the left, 2 pegs + tat, pitch length about 45m. Second pitch is similar length, belay on LHS after steel section starting at about 35m, 2 pegs + tat. Do NOT continue into groove above as you will not reach next belay. Third pitch climbs groove and some more broken ground above to belay on LHS. Last pitch is easy climb to top, no fixed gear or belay in place. Nice route done in horrible conditions, but with an easy descent and some excellent bum sliding on the south side.

with Ewan Lyons
Captain Solo 19/Mar/11 AltLd

Hard walk in through deep snow, soft and chewy lower down but colder higher up. 3 really good pitches, dreaded thaw on the way though.

with GaryK
henning82 18/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Led the last pitch, but that hardly warrants grade V. Really fun climb though. Loads of spin drift and strenuous walk in.

johannes 18/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Plenty of spindrift. Amazing route!

Harry Holmes 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
rcammack 12/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Bottom pitch a bit wet, otherwise good. Spindrift central though!

drew8connelly ??/2011 -
Hidden 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing for a pure ice route! Nice weather too!

with Mark020
hwackerhage 07/Mar/10 AltLd
with Brian Duthie
Dougie Harvey 03/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with Ben Warrick, Finlay Wild
Hidden 22/Feb/10 -
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
Treadsoftly 18/Feb/10 2nd O/S

Finished on this one after Salmon Leap looked too much for an old fart like me.

with alkira
Simon Yearsley 18/Feb/10 AltLd
with Audrey Garipay
S Lynch 18/Feb/10 -
alkira 18/Feb/10 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
colinthrelfall ??/2010 AltLd
with blair, jim
Charlie wp Hill ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 21/Mar/06 AltLd O/S
dangates ??/2006 AltLd
with Tom Marshall
Chad123 ?/Mar/05 Lead

Amazing route - definitely one of the best grade V's in Scotland....

with Numpty
Hidden ?/Feb/05 2nd
James Gordon ??/2005 -
fellgazelle 13/Feb/03 -

absolutely stonking! Tremendous route.

with Chris Dale, Roger Daley
Spade ?/Feb/03 AltLd
with Gordon Bromley
David Horwood 07/Mar/02 -
Grezza ?/Mar/00 Lead O/S

narrow but perfectly formed. thanks to the guy who broke trail for an hour in fresh snow and went wrong in the final 50 meteres at foot of route!

with Paul E
steveb2006 04/Jan/97 Lead

Superb difficult climb. Superb weather. We appear to be the only people on the mountain let alone the route. Each pitch is harder than the last. The snowy mountains around turn a deeper orange and we wonder if we will be benighted. Reach the summit at sunset.

with Paul Gale
Neil McA 05/Feb/94 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
Hidden ??/1994 AltLd
Hidden ??/1991 AltLd
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 40
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
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Onsighted
Repeated
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