UKC

95m, 4 pitches. The slab to the right of Safety First starting at a slightly higher level. There are no conventional runners most of the way up the first pitch (skyhooks might work?) so this is basically a solo.
P1, 32 m, 4c. Start about 8 m up and right of Safety First at a ramp in the left edge of the higher level of slab. From a foothold a few moves up the ramp move right across the lower wall to gain the slab. Follow this taking a direct line between a cleaned porthole and a grass patch. Near the top move left to a rib on the left of a heathery groove (poor nut and very small flake) to a junction with Safety First and the first worthwhile runner. Take the arete on the right to heather, step right, scramble over a small block and belay on two blocks above.
P2, 10 m. A heathery link. Scramble rightwards up heather to a flake at the toe of the upper wall
P3, 35 m. 5b. Climb the grooves just right steeply at first then step left and up a rib to gain a groove below the prominent overlap. Climb the groove and move round the left edge of the overlap. Mantle on to the ledge above, step right and climb the rib above in a good position to small overlaps. Above these trend left on easier ground to the stance at the top of P3 of Safety First.
P4, As for Safety First.

Harold Walmsley, Mike Bailey 28/Jun/2021.

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Nexus

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)

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