150m, 4 pitches.
No description has been contributed for this climb.
K Woods, A Höhn 07/Jul/2021.
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| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| kwoods | 9 Jan, 2022 |
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βeta: Bottom lower sections are mostly easy ground with rock steps and following the rising feature. Very (very) traditional ground, so just named the route for the overall feature - looks something like a pillar fanning out. The top pitch is the loosest thing I've climbed by a margin. It was brilliant - very intense, also very serious. Andi belayed well out the way, I kept contingencies in ropework, two ropes doing different things so that if one gets cut, there's still an option. (and Andi's rope still got sawed like butter at the belay when a block fell out) In a way, it's quite a lucky pitch for being a bag of s***. It's never so steep - you are 'pushing' on rock rather than 'pulling' it off. It's slightly traversing, so rockfall goes off to the side - and tonnes of rock came off this pitch. Never want to be dramatic, but it might actually justify XS. Ungradeable? Just about. On the other hand, was a great experience 180 degrees out of proportion to the quality of the (non)climbing: the rising feature up the hillside, the capping headwall at the top, crux at the -very- top before releasing you to the plateau. So intense and vivid, I remember every single placement and quality of each hold. I've also looked at this buttress for years (more than a decade), so nice to climb to the top of it in a direct line. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: Bottom lower sections are mostly easy ground with rock steps and following the rising feature. Very (very) traditional ground, so just named the route for the overall feature - looks something like a pillar fanning out. The top pitch is the loosest thing I've climbed by a margin. It was brilliant - very intense, also very serious. Andi belayed well out the way, I kept contingencies in ropework, two ropes doing different things so that if one gets cut, there's still an option. (and Andi's rope still got sawed like butter at the belay when a block fell out) In a way, it's quite a lucky pitch for being a bag of s***. It's never so steep - you are 'pushing' on rock rather than 'pulling' it off. It's slightly traversing, so rockfall goes off to the side - and tonnes of rock came off this pitch. Never want to be dramatic, but it might actually justify XS. Ungradeable? Just about. On the other hand, was a great experience 180 degrees out of proportion to the quality of the (non)climbing: the rising feature up the hillside, the capping headwall at the top, crux at the -very- top before releasing you to the plateau. So intense and vivid, I remember every single placement and quality of each hold. I've also looked at this buttress for years (more than a decade), so nice to climb to the top of it in a direct line. |
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