Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
Start on the big jug. Head straight out on undercuts and a wide right pinch on the lip. Then left to a slot to reach good holds. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
From the square-cut jug in the middle of the cave. head straight out via undercuts and a wide right-hand pinch on the lip, before going left to a slot and finishing on the good holds above
jim pope 10/Jun/2021.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Keen Roof
Grade: f8A+ ***
(Raven Tor (Miller's Dale))