300m, 13 pitches. 4 to 5 hrs.

M. Fourastier, A Madier 01/Sep/1937

Ticklists: 10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, Parois-de-legende.


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 29/Sep Lead
Kris2fa 05/Sep AltLd O/S
with Adam24B
Adam24B 05/Sep AltLd O/S

Amazing rock quality, went wrong near the bottom following bolts, turned out to be hard. The whole thing pretty much is equipped, in theory you'd only need quickdraws and some slings for the spikes around the summit. The guide we were using was from the 1980s, there was us with a full rack expecting the odd peg only to find bolts leading off in every direction. There was an inevitable scrum at the top with so many routes coming together which delayed us a while. Took us about 11 hours from the road and back.

annihuovinen 11/Jul 2nd dnf

Got halfway up before a thunderstorm hit and we had to bail. Waited as long as possible to retreat as the climbing was so nice. This in spite of a couple of wet pitches and some climbing in light hail/rain. There was no doubt about the time go when the heavens finally opened and some lighting flashed pretty close by. Got totally soaked & kindly the refuge provide us with towels & dry clothes before we left for the valley. Maybe they felt guilty about the meteo report which forecast a sunny day. Definitely a face to come back to.

davkeo 11/Jul Lead dnf

Got halfway up before a thunderstorm hit and we had to bail. Waited as long as possible to retreat as the climbing was so nice. This in spite of a couple of wet pitches and some climbing in light hail/rain. There was no doubt about the time go when the heavens finally opened and some lighting flashed pretty close by. Got totally soaked & kindly the refuge provide us with towels & dry clothes before we left for the valley. Maybe they felt guilty about the meteo report which forecast a sunny day. Definitely a face to come back to.

Roberttaylor 15/Jun AltLd O/S

On Stephen's birthday. I led P1-5

pauldrew 02/Sep/16 AltLd
BarbsMurray 02/Sep/16 AltLd
with Paul
LJC 29/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches. 6hrs with some serious quing before the summit.

with Rich
mike hope 11/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Finally on it after several days of unusually cold/rain/snowy weather. Great route and excellent climbing. 6 hours to summit from Bivvi outside hut. More rain and thunderstorms developing as we got down to the car.

with Martin S
Nemmie ?/Jul/16 AltLd
dicky79 07/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Pete
Hidden 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Jul/15 Lead O/S
doctorgranite ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden 14/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
saaruli 01/Aug/14 AltLd
with Erik
Hidden 01/Aug/14 AltLd
mchardski ?/Aug/14 2nd

Jon lead most of it

with Jon Brain
tatz45 25/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
OERees 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
richjm ?/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Josh Fawcett
ambrooker 02/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
with Tom
chiverstom 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Long day out. Al lost a contact lens and the scrambling pitches at the top of the mountain took longer than expected.

with Alice
Hidden 26/Aug/13 AltLd
louby 22/Aug/13 AltLd

Really good

chris_B 22/Aug/13 AltLd
Hidden 17/Aug/13 2nd dog
Jake Young 14/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

So good we went up twice.

with Mike
carlh 13/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

An awesome route climbed with Ben Graham. 8 hrs from hut to hut, although we did get a bit held up on the early pitches (which are shared with other routes) and at the abseil (which can be a bottle neck, as all routes finish on the small summit). Good climbing on sound rock and very dry at an 8am start considering the storm that soaked us on the walk in to the hut the previous night! A couple of pitches in the middle section were very thin on bolts - one 40m+ pitch with lots of laybacking was totally trad after one bolt before an overhanging move next to the belay! Worth having a selection of cams! We took the decission to climb around the 6a pitch, as a Spanish team were struggling on it and a storm was moving in. It was a shame to miss the pitch, but more important to get ahead of them and get off the summit (which is a perfect lighning conductor!) before the storm broke. The route as a whole felt VS 4c, with elements of HVS 5a. We climbed it in 14 pitches and with no issues regarding route finding. The descent is very pleasant by Alpine standards - a couple of 25m abseils from good chains and an easy down scramble traverse to the cairned path which leads to cold beers & a genuine welcome from the very friendly staff back at the hut! :)

BenGraham 13/Aug/12 AltLd β

Great climb, moved swift and comfortable. Down before the thunderstorms!

with Carl Halliday
tobydunford 01/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
uncontrollable ?/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Tom S, Max
guy757 09/Jul/12 -
fk2005 ?/Jun/12 2nd dnf
with olga koepping, Richard Apps
QuentinSu ?/Jun/12 Lead β
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden 28/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
J1PEF 23/Sep/11 AltLd

went a bit off route in middle, Lots of bolts replacing the pitons, few cams were used. long day in a three! Good mountain crag and hut!

with beds
hartleycsh 22/Sep/11 2nd
with jon peffer, Paul Bedford
beds74 22/Sep/11 AltLd

Big day in a 3...Great route, did some variations lot's...and ended up doing crack pitch onto arete and then some easy chossy pitches up the right onto the 'ledge' led a 6b pitch abed down....then traversed left back onto the Madier route and up. Tricky route finding with French topo. Abseil descent is a luxury compared to some get off's! Down and back to hut by 20.15. Guardian waiting for us, and remember Craig NO! She sleeps on her own!!

with Craig Hartley, Jon Peffer
glenngordon 11/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with bomber harris
Andrew Sloan 05/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Stunning route.Struggled to second Madier fissure with rucksack; I would give this pitch sustained F6b or top end E1 and the rest of the route beween VS and HVS. Just made it down to the hut for dinner!

Martin Haworth 05/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Brilliant route, great day. First 3 pitches still wet in places so had route to ourselves. Fissure Madier was superb but hard

with Andy
Ken Applegate 22/Aug/11 AltLd

Stunning route on a stunning mountain! We took a set of nuts, but didn't need them, although a couple of cams proved useful.

with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 01/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b ?/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 20/Jun/11 Lead O/S
roberto18 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

awesome climb with some of the best views i've ever seen

with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 25/Aug/10 AltLd
jshields 04/Aug/10 AltLd
with Ian Hicks
Hidden ?/Aug/10 AltLd
Martin Bennett 16/Jul/10 -
with Ali
Joedt ??/2010 AltLd O/S
basvdploeg ??/2010 -
andy mcc 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Absolutely stunning day out. Jason led majority (about 12) out of the apprx 16 pitches, including the tough ones at the top.

with Jason King
HimTiggins 30/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

What a mountain. Stunning to look at, stunning rock, stunning surroundings and stunning climbing!

with John
Hidden 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
PenJD 28/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
Robmwatt ??/2008 -
with Gaz Morgan
sgl 25/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden 25/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Jul/07 AltLd dnf
TimPerkin 06/Jul/07 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
David Horwood 30/Aug/06 -
graniterocks ?/Sep/05 AltLd

Lead first 4 pitches

with Anirban Gupta, Shane Topley
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! ?/Aug/03 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
Andy Clarke 29/Jul/03 AltLd

A great climb on a superb natural feature: a rock cathedral dominating its wild cwm. As the spire narrows towards the top, you get some thrilling exposure, but the routes also get pretty close together and we finished up doing a couple of pitches of Visite Obligatpoire. Definitely no loss of quality - everything on this must be superb.

with James
Campbell42 ?/Aug/01 AltLd O/S
with Graham Exley
nige pacer ?/Jul/98 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Aug/97 Lead
Mark Stevenson 26/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with Rowland Barker
NickJH ?/Jul/97 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
Chris Ellis 18/Aug/95 AltLd

Snowed at the top

with Louise Pellett
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/94 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
auld al ?/Jul/90 2nd O/S
jon 01/Aug/83 Lead

Fabulous. According to diary 4h hut to hut.

with H
jcw ??/1967 -
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Votes cast 9
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set