300m, 13 pitches. 4 to 5 hrs.

M.Fourastier, A.Madier 01/Sep/1937

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10 Multi-pitch Routes Worth Travelling For, Parois-de-legende, Ailefroide 2017 Ideas, Epic Rock Europe

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 10 Aug AltLd
James Milton 10 Aug AltLd O/S Great mountain. Ok route, a few good pitches
with GGD
Great mountain. Ok route, a few good pitches
with GGD
merski 21 Jul AltLd O/S Superb route in great weather. We did all 14 pitches and decided to go for the "Madier Crack" which is around French 6a/6b (UK 5a/5b). I lead this crux and thought it was spot on the grade, but maybe not as hard (so only UK 5a) for those that like to hand jam on UK gritstone!
with Nicolas Coronnel, Antoine Marnat
Superb route in great weather. We did all 14 pitches and decided to go for the "Madier Crack" which is around French 6a/6b (UK 5a/5b). I lead this crux and thought it was spot on the grade, but maybe not as hard (so only UK 5a) for those that like to hand jam on UK gritstone!
with Nicolas Coronnel, Antoine Marnat
Fiona Hughes 19 Jul 2nd
with SP
with SP
Hidden 19 Jul Lead O/S
robgixer 17 Jun Lead O/S Great route, longer then 300m as suggested here. The fissure Madier is a tough pitch, definitely E1 5b. Had to carry boots and crampons as still loads of snow all the way back to the hut
Great route, longer then 300m as suggested here. The fissure Madier is a tough pitch, definitely E1 5b. Had to carry boots and crampons as still loads of snow all the way back to the hut
CharleyAnn 17 Jun 2nd Great route.
Great route.
Yeah Roy bmx 3 Oct, 2018 AltLd G/U Amazing route. We went pretty late in the season due to work commitments and arrived to fog on our way up followed by snow on arrival to the hut. It snowed 80mm overnight but almost completely evaporated by lunch time. We got our opportunity to climb on day two with high pressure and bright blue skies. The rock is amazing. You can trust your feet on the tiniest of little ripples if you want. Loads of space for gear placement as well as bits and bobs of fixed gear along the way and loads of rusty old pitons. I would almost reccomend to anyone doing the climb to just thin out your rack and only take half. We got a little bit lost when it got to the traverse and ended up working all the way round onto the east face before climbing up onto the summit for sunset. We got a rope stuck on our final abseil so hopefully someone got themselves a nice present the next day. It’s worth noting that there are some AMAZING bivy spots about halfway up. We stopped for lunch but it would be a great place to spend the night.
with Marcus
Amazing route. We went pretty late in the season due to work commitments and arrived to fog on our way up followed by snow on arrival to the hut. It snowed 80mm overnight but almost completely evaporated by lunch time. We got our opportunity to climb on day two with high pressure and bright blue skies. The rock is amazing. You can trust your feet on the tiniest of little ripples if you want. Loads of space for gear placement as well as bits and bobs of fixed gear along the way and loads of rusty old pitons. I would almost reccomend to anyone doing the climb to just thin out your rack and only take half. We got a little bit lost when it got to the traverse and ended up working all the way round onto the east face before climbing up onto the summit for sunset. We got a rope stuck on our final abseil so hopefully someone got themselves a nice present the next day. It’s worth noting that there are some AMAZING bivy spots about halfway up. We stopped for lunch but it would be a great place to spend the night.
with Marcus
Liam Ingram 19 Jul, 2018 Sent
klcmunro 19 Jul, 2018 2nd
James Oakes 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Brilliant route on great rock. Climbed Livanos variant at the top.
with Fragmod
Brilliant route on great rock. Climbed Livanos variant at the top.
with Fragmod
Fragmod 6 Jul, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 29 Sep, 2017 Lead
Kris2fa 5 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
Adam24B 5 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Amazing rock quality, went wrong near the bottom following bolts, turned out to be hard. The whole thing pretty much is equipped, in theory you'd only need quickdraws and some slings for the spikes around the summit. The guide we were using was from the 1980s, there was us with a full rack expecting the odd peg only to find bolts leading off in every direction. There was an inevitable scrum at the top with so many routes coming together which delayed us a while. Took us about 11 hours from the road and back.
with Kris2fa
Amazing rock quality, went wrong near the bottom following bolts, turned out to be hard. The whole thing pretty much is equipped, in theory you'd only need quickdraws and some slings for the spikes around the summit. The guide we were using was from the 1980s, there was us with a full rack expecting the odd peg only to find bolts leading off in every direction. There was an inevitable scrum at the top with so many routes coming together which delayed us a while. Took us about 11 hours from the road and back.
with Kris2fa
Hidden 11 Jul, 2017 2nd dnf
davkeo 11 Jul, 2017 Lead dnf Got halfway up before a thunderstorm hit and we had to bail. Waited as long as possible to retreat as the climbing was so nice. This in spite of a couple of wet pitches and some climbing in light hail/rain. There was no doubt about the time go when the heavens finally opened and some lighting flashed pretty close by. Got totally soaked & kindly the refuge provide us with towels & dry clothes before we left for the valley. Maybe they felt guilty about the meteo report which forecast a sunny day. Definitely a face to come back to.
Got halfway up before a thunderstorm hit and we had to bail. Waited as long as possible to retreat as the climbing was so nice. This in spite of a couple of wet pitches and some climbing in light hail/rain. There was no doubt about the time go when the heavens finally opened and some lighting flashed pretty close by. Got totally soaked & kindly the refuge provide us with towels & dry clothes before we left for the valley. Maybe they felt guilty about the meteo report which forecast a sunny day. Definitely a face to come back to.
Roberttaylor 15 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S On Stephen's birthday. I led P1-5
On Stephen's birthday. I led P1-5
pauldrew 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd
BarbsMurray 2 Sep, 2016 AltLd
LucaC 29 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Lead all pitches. 6hrs with some serious quing before the summit.
with Rich
Lead all pitches. 6hrs with some serious quing before the summit.
with Rich
mike hope 11 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Finally on it after several days of unusually cold/rain/snowy weather. Great route and excellent climbing. 6 hours to summit from Bivvi outside hut. More rain and thunderstorms developing as we got down to the car.
with Martin S
Finally on it after several days of unusually cold/rain/snowy weather. Great route and excellent climbing. 6 hours to summit from Bivvi outside hut. More rain and thunderstorms developing as we got down to the car.
with Martin S
Nemmie ?Jul, 2016 AltLd
dicky79 7 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Ross Davidson 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Cool route. A few more hard pitches along the way would make it more interesting
Cool route. A few more hard pitches along the way would make it more interesting
Hidden 12 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 9 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Kike Kikon 4 Jul, 2015 AltLd Amazing climb, in about 14 or 15 pitches. There are bolts but rather spaced, so a small rack is recommended. Is graded about 6a or so, which is fair, but think that is nearly 450m (still some pitches to get to the summit via "Visite Obligatoire"), so pretty demanding. Rock quality is superb. Led about 3/4 of the pitches. Avec Elsita and Tom Morro!
Amazing climb, in about 14 or 15 pitches. There are bolts but rather spaced, so a small rack is recommended. Is graded about 6a or so, which is fair, but think that is nearly 450m (still some pitches to get to the summit via "Visite Obligatoire"), so pretty demanding. Rock quality is superb. Led about 3/4 of the pitches. Avec Elsita and Tom Morro!
doctorgranite ??, 2015 AltLd
TM_Horton 21 Sep, 2014 AltLd O/S a very long day out. amazing peak with stunning views into the valley.
with alun richardson
a very long day out. amazing peak with stunning views into the valley.
with alun richardson
Hidden 14 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
saaruli 1 Aug, 2014 AltLd
with erik..
with erik..
Hidden 1 Aug, 2014 AltLd
mchardski ?Aug, 2014 2nd Jon lead most of it
with Jon Brain
Jon lead most of it
with Jon Brain
tatz45 25 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
OERees 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
richjm ?Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Josh Fawcett
with Josh Fawcett
ambrooker 2 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
chiverstom 2 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S Long day out. Al lost a contact lens and the scrambling pitches at the top of the mountain took longer than expected.
Long day out. Al lost a contact lens and the scrambling pitches at the top of the mountain took longer than expected.
Hidden 26 Aug, 2013 AltLd
louby 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd Really good
with chris_B
Really good
with chris_B
chris_B 22 Aug, 2013 AltLd
with louby
with louby
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 2nd dog
Jake Young 14 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S So good we went up twice.
with mwatson
So good we went up twice.
with mwatson
carlh 13 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S An awesome route climbed with Ben Graham. 8 hrs from hut to hut, although we did get a bit held up on the early pitches (which are shared with other routes) and at the abseil (which can be a bottle neck, as all routes finish on the small summit). Good climbing on sound rock and very dry at an 8am start considering the storm that soaked us on the walk in to the hut the previous night! A couple of pitches in the middle section were very thin on bolts - one 40m+ pitch with lots of laybacking was totally trad after one bolt before an overhanging move next to the belay! Worth having a selection of cams! We took the decission to climb around the 6a pitch, as a Spanish team were struggling on it and a storm was moving in. It was a shame to miss the pitch, but more important to get ahead of them and get off the summit (which is a perfect lighning conductor!) before the storm broke. The route as a whole felt VS 4c, with elements of HVS 5a. We climbed it in 14 pitches and with no issues regarding route finding. The descent is very pleasant by Alpine standards - a couple of 25m abseils from good chains and an easy down scramble traverse to the cairned path which leads to cold beers & a genuine welcome from the very friendly staff back at the hut! :)
An awesome route climbed with Ben Graham. 8 hrs from hut to hut, although we did get a bit held up on the early pitches (which are shared with other routes) and at the abseil (which can be a bottle neck, as all routes finish on the small summit). Good climbing on sound rock and very dry at an 8am start considering the storm that soaked us on the walk in to the hut the previous night! A couple of pitches in the middle section were very thin on bolts - one 40m+ pitch with lots of laybacking was totally trad after one bolt before an overhanging move next to the belay! Worth having a selection of cams! We took the decission to climb around the 6a pitch, as a Spanish team were struggling on it and a storm was moving in. It was a shame to miss the pitch, but more important to get ahead of them and get off the summit (which is a perfect lighning conductor!) before the storm broke. The route as a whole felt VS 4c, with elements of HVS 5a. We climbed it in 14 pitches and with no issues regarding route finding. The descent is very pleasant by Alpine standards - a couple of 25m abseils from good chains and an easy down scramble traverse to the cairned path which leads to cold beers & a genuine welcome from the very friendly staff back at the hut! :)
BenGraham 13 Aug, 2012 AltLd β Great climb, moved swift and comfortable. Down before the thunderstorms!
with Carl Halliday
Great climb, moved swift and comfortable. Down before the thunderstorms!
with Carl Halliday
tobydunford 1 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Harry Martin
with Harry Martin
uncontrollable ?Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Tom S, Max
with Tom S, Max
Hidden 9 Jul, 2012 -
fk2005 ?Jun, 2012 2nd dnf
with olga koepping, Richard Apps
with olga koepping, Richard Apps
QuentinSu ?Jun, 2012 Lead β
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden 28 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
J1PEF 23 Sep, 2011 AltLd went a bit off route in middle, Lots of bolts replacing the pitons, few cams were used. long day in a three! Good mountain crag and hut!
with beds74
went a bit off route in middle, Lots of bolts replacing the pitons, few cams were used. long day in a three! Good mountain crag and hut!
with beds74
hartleycsh 22 Sep, 2011 2nd
with jon peffer, beds74
with jon peffer, beds74
beds74 22 Sep, 2011 AltLd Big day in a 3...Great route, did some variations lot's...and ended up doing crack pitch onto arete and then some easy chossy pitches up the right onto the 'ledge' led a 6b pitch abed down....then traversed left back onto the Madier route and up. Tricky route finding with French topo. Abseil descent is a luxury compared to some get off's! Down and back to hut by 20.15. Guardian waiting for us, and remember Craig NO! She sleeps on her own!!
with Craig Hartley, J1PEF
Big day in a 3...Great route, did some variations lot's...and ended up doing crack pitch onto arete and then some easy chossy pitches up the right onto the 'ledge' led a 6b pitch abed down....then traversed left back onto the Madier route and up. Tricky route finding with French topo. Abseil descent is a luxury compared to some get off's! Down and back to hut by 20.15. Guardian waiting for us, and remember Craig NO! She sleeps on her own!!
with Craig Hartley, J1PEF
glenngordon 11 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S
with bomber harris
with bomber harris
Andrew Sloan 5 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Stunning route.Struggled to second Madier fissure with rucksack; I would give this pitch sustained F6b or top end E1 and the rest of the route beween VS and HVS. Just made it down to the hut for dinner!
Stunning route.Struggled to second Madier fissure with rucksack; I would give this pitch sustained F6b or top end E1 and the rest of the route beween VS and HVS. Just made it down to the hut for dinner!
Martin Haworth 5 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Brilliant route, great day. First 3 pitches still wet in places so had route to ourselves. Fissure Madier was superb but hard
Brilliant route, great day. First 3 pitches still wet in places so had route to ourselves. Fissure Madier was superb but hard
Hidden 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd
Ken Applegate 22 Aug, 2011 AltLd Stunning route on a stunning mountain! We took a set of nuts, but didn't need them, although a couple of cams proved useful.
with Scott Kirkhope
Stunning route on a stunning mountain! We took a set of nuts, but didn't need them, although a couple of cams proved useful.
with Scott Kirkhope
Hidden 1 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
dan_o_b ?Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 20 Jun, 2011 Lead O/S
roberto18 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S awesome climb with some of the best views i've ever seen
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
awesome climb with some of the best views i've ever seen
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
Hidden 25 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden 4 Aug, 2010 AltLd
Hidden ?Aug, 2010 AltLd
Martin Bennett 16 Jul, 2010 -
with Ali
with Ali
Joedt ??, 2010 AltLd O/S
basvdploeg ??, 2010 -
andy mcc 6 Aug, 2009 AltLd O/S Absolutely stunning day out. Jason led majority (about 12) out of the apprx 16 pitches, including the tough ones at the top.
with Jason King
Absolutely stunning day out. Jason led majority (about 12) out of the apprx 16 pitches, including the tough ones at the top.
with Jason King
HimTiggins 30 Jul, 2009 AltLd O/S What a mountain. Stunning to look at, stunning rock, stunning surroundings and stunning climbing!
What a mountain. Stunning to look at, stunning rock, stunning surroundings and stunning climbing!
Hidden 28 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
PennyL 28 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with PeakDJ
with PeakDJ
Robmwatt ??, 2008 -
with Gaz Morgan
with Gaz Morgan
sgl 25 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
with Konnie
Hidden 25 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23 Jul, 2007 AltLd dnf
TimPerkin 6 Jul, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Colin Beechey
with Colin Beechey
David Horwood 30 Aug, 2006 -
graniterocks ?Sep, 2005 AltLd Lead first 4 pitches
with Anirban Gupta, Shane Topley
Lead first 4 pitches
with Anirban Gupta, Shane Topley
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! ?Aug, 2003 AltLd O/S
with Rebecca
with Rebecca
Andy Clarke 29 Jul, 2003 AltLd A great climb on a superb natural feature: a rock cathedral dominating its wild cwm. As the spire narrows towards the top, you get some thrilling exposure, but the routes also get pretty close together and we finished up doing a couple of pitches of Visite Obligatpoire. Definitely no loss of quality - everything on this must be superb.
with James
A great climb on a superb natural feature: a rock cathedral dominating its wild cwm. As the spire narrows towards the top, you get some thrilling exposure, but the routes also get pretty close together and we finished up doing a couple of pitches of Visite Obligatpoire. Definitely no loss of quality - everything on this must be superb.
with James
Campbell42 ?Aug, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Graham Exley
with Graham Exley
nige pacer ?Jul, 1998 AltLd O/S
with Rich Vowles
with Rich Vowles
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Aug, 1997 Lead
with Liz Cross
with Liz Cross
Mark Stevenson 26 Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S
with Rowland Barker
with Rowland Barker
NickJH ?Jul, 1997 AltLd O/S
with JThomas
with JThomas
pete johnson ?Jul, 1997 -
with Lun
with Lun
Chris Ellis 18 Aug, 1995 AltLd Snowed at the top
Snowed at the top
Hidden ??, 1995 AltLd O/S
Hidden 6 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1994 Lead O/S
pingora 12 Aug, 1993 -
auld al ?Jul, 1990 2nd O/S
Hidden 1 Aug, 1983 Lead
jcw ??, 1967 -
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Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set